Friction Adjustment

[Shuboxlover 482]

I don't understand what to do here, the manual says loosen the lock nut (which I did) and then "tighten the collar-friction".......but how exactly do you do that, it doesn't say how or show how to in the picture :thumbs:

[MikesRJ 558]

I don't understand what to do here, the manual says loosen the lock nut (which I did) and then "tighten the collar-friction".......but how exactly do you do that, it doesn't say how or show how to in the picture

What machine are you working on?

[Shuboxlover 482]

........sorry

C-160 auto :thumbs:

[MikesRJ 558]

Not having worked on an auto I am hard-pressed to give you a definitive answer, someone else will chime in if I am incorrect here.

But looking at the manual and the parts breakdown, it appears that you need to rotate the Collar Friction Adjustment (threaded shaft) into the nut on the other side of the Lock nut, so that it is threaded farther pressing into the Friction Cone. This increases the compression spring tension between the Friction Collar and the Cone. See below, and I apologize for the crappy picture. It's the best I've got.

[Shuboxlover 482]

I wondered that, but how do I do it??? Do i get a pair of pliers or vice grips and crank on it, or is there another way?

[MikesRJ 558]

Looking at the picture, once you loosen the lock nut the other nut ("backing nut" ?) should be fairly free to rotate. If it is not, I would suggest shooting some PB Blaster on it and let it sit for a while, but definitely DO NOT recommend pliers or vice grips on the unprotected threads. If you have an 1/8" thick piece of rubber (i.e. garden hose) that will fit over the threads (even if you split it down the side to make it fit), then perhaps that would suffice ... but be careful.

All you really want to do is move the "backing nut" about one or two flats (1/6th to 1/3rd of a turn) counter-clockwise when looking from the lock nut end.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

There are flats milled into the end of the threaded collar so you can use a wrench to turn it.

I haven't found too many of these that will turn willingly after all of the years they've been stuck (literally) together. You have to disassemble everything and remove it from the hoodstand, which can be almost impossible if the DCL parts are seized to the pivot pin. (more than likely will require an O/A torch to heat it up enough to break it free.)

My recommendation:

You might want to save this for a later time -- until you get everything else working correctly. The DCL will function fine regardless - it just won't stay exactly where you put it.

[MikesRJ 558]

I defer to the expert ...

[Shuboxlover 482]

I don't see anything that has "flats" that I could put a wrench on, other than the lock nut

Starting from the right we have the lock nut, collar bracket pivot, washer, friction spring, washer, friction cone, and finally the friction collar.

Which part is supposed to have the "flats" in them, I scraped AND felt all the way around everything, and the only part that seems I can put a wrench on is the lock nut.

As you can see I have the lock nut backed off, but thats where I get stumped.

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

The flats are directly under the locknut. (the very end of the threaded sleeve should be milled square)

By the way..... observe the friction cone (#6-58 in the IPL Mike posted above) when moving the DCL. If it rotates with the DCL, the small key is sheared that holds it to the pivot pin (#6-55) and there will be no friction.

Look on the outside of the hoodstand (left side) at the tab that secures the pivot shaft. They will break loose from the shaft at the weld and allow everything to turn together - which also means no friction.

[Shuboxlover 482]

I sound like a broken record, THANKS AGAIN TT

The manual just states to loosen the lock nut, not completely back it off.

Should be good now though.

Thanks again :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,162]

Loosening the locknut allows you to turn the threaded sleeve tighter into the spring / friction cone.

Sometimes you get lucky on these and it will actually make a difference, but more than likely, you'll need to tear everything apart and clean it so it will work correctly again.

Friendly warning: they can be tricky to reassemble. :thumbs:

[refracman 167]

Im just wondering why you need to adjust it.

Does it not stay in place after setting your desired speed? Adjusting this will in no way affect your ground speed. Adjusting will only affect the tension on the motion lever which holds it in place.

[Shuboxlover 482]

Ya....I'm chasing a couple problems, this one is about it not staying the speed I set it at. If I push the lever to make it go forward, it will always end up at top speed.

Hopefully I'll get lucky and it will actually make a difference. We'll see, I might not be able to mess with it tonight, but ya never know.