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KB9LOR

12 hp Kohler question

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KB9LOR

Got a kohler 12, it will not fire while turning over, but as soon as I let off the key it will fire??? everything else is normal except for the goofy firing.

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TT

Either the wiring or the ignition switch is messed up --- or both.

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KB9LOR

Either the wiring or the ignition switch is messed up --- or both.

Thanks TT, it may be the switch, as the PO has it set goofy menaing you have to turn it waaay to the right to get it to work, well at least I have a starting point, thanks!

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KB9LOR

Went out for a closer look and saw where the PO did away with the stator(At least I think that is what it would be) and put coil on the Kohler, I saw the plug wire he had taped up hidden beside the fuel pump, anyone have any idea what should be the proper ignition switch? as the wiring diagram is useless being he switched to the coil. So I am needing a switch for a coil setup.

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TT

Exactly what tractor are you working on?

As far as the chopped-off plug wire goes........

If the magneto ignition coil on a K series goes bad, they can be switched to battery ignition rather easily.

It would have nothing to do with the stator.

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KB9LOR

Exactly what tractor are you working on?

As far as the chopped-off plug wire goes........

If the magneto ignition coil on a K series goes bad, they can be switched to battery ignition rather easily.

It would have nothing to do with the stator.

I am working on a 1276, what I am saying it has the wrong switch on it, why else would it be firing when you let off the key, the wiring diagram says it should have a "I" pin, to which the positive side of the coil runs to, the switch it has, does not have that place on the switch, and it looks like the diagram shows a 3 plug switch not a 4 or 5 plug switch.

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rickv1957

Yuor tractor had the old style switch where cables hook to switch originaly,Rick

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TT

The original ignition switch was a heavy duty (70 amp, I believe) Cole-Hersee part with three "lug" terminals that the wires screwed to. (two of the lugs were bigger than the third)

The positive battery cable connected to the "B" terminal, the cable to the starter connected to the "S" terminal (these were the two bigger terminals) and the ignition power wire hooked to the "I" terminal. (the generator light was also tied in there too)

Starter motor current could pass directly through this type of switch without the need for a relay. (solenoid)

If you aren't worried about keeping the tractor original, you can install a solenoid and use the P/N 103990 ignition switch. If someone has already installed a solenoid, it sounds like you just have the wrong switch - or it's just wired up incorrectly.

Have any photos? :thumbs:

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KB9LOR

The original ignition switch was a heavy duty (70 amp, I believe) Cole-Hersee part with three "lug" terminals that the wires screwed to. (two of the lugs were bigger than the third)

The positive battery cable connected to the "B" terminal, the cable to the starter connected to the "S" terminal (these were the two bigger terminals) and the ignition power wire hooked to the "I" terminal. (the generator light was also tied in there too)

Starter motor current could pass directly through this type of switch without the need for a relay. (solenoid)

If you aren't worried about keeping the tractor original, you can install a solenoid and use the P/N 103990 ignition switch. If someone has already installed a solenoid, it sounds like you just have the wrong switch - or it's just wired up incorrectly.

Have any photos? :thumbs:

Well also did a compression check, seems the old girl is going to need a overhaul, needs rings, only getting 50psi on the compression test, and about 60psi with a little oil down the cylinder, so it tells me rings are in order, so got a guy hunting me the parts to redo the engine may as well do the whole nine yards while it will be tore down. as far as the electrical TT I do have the old style switch, and it is run correctly, but donna do the rebuild thing first, then go back to the firing problem, thanks for all your help.

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Rollerman

Brian Kohlers have an automatic compression release.

It holds the exhaust valve open just a shade so it will spin over easy by hand or for the starter at a very low RPM.

Try your compression test again, but this time spin the engine backwards.

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TT

You can also hook the engine of this tractor up to a second tractor with a twisted (figure 8) V belt between the PTO pulleys. Use the second tractor to spin the engine at idle speed and you'll see what the compression really is. :thumbs:

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KB9LOR

Did not know that, I will try that out this week, will let you know how it goes. And thanks again guys, I appreciate the help.

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TT

That's a good way to get stubborn engines started too......

Just be careful around the exposed belt! :thumbs:

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KB9LOR

That's a good way to get stubborn engines started too......

Just be careful around the exposed belt! :thumbs:

Yeah, would hate to get caught up in that beast! wow, gives me shivers just thinking about it! :banghead:

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