D series Hub removal

[pfrederi 18,643]

Probably my three most favorite Wheel Horse repair tasks are

1. Removing the steering wheel

2. Removing the draw bar pin from the transmission

3. Hub removal

Over the last three days i have found that hub removal on D series is my new favorite task...it is in another league completely.

First attempt was to use a scrap D series hub as a puller...Not even close. The hub is far to long relative to the thickness of the bolt flange all you will do is break the puller hub or the hub on your machine.

Now I know why used transmission for D series always seem to come with the hubs

Clearly pulling from the back is the solution, but how.

I wound up using a bearing puller at the back two 3/4 inch thick steel plates from my press to go between the puller and the back of the hub and a home made front for the puller made out of two pieces of 1.5" square tube left over from making my counter weight holder.

I had to augment the 3/4 inch plates with another 1/4" plate on each side (not enough room for another pair of 3/4 inch plates) as I was bending the 3/4 inch stock.

Had to use Grade eight bolts after I bent a 3/4" grade two and stripped thread on a Grade 5.

The hub fought all the way off ... had to use my impact wrench at full power 100 psi all the way.

Anyway next week I will try the other side.....

and yes the 1.5" tubes are bent in the last picture.

Also forgot to include the 8 lb sledge hammer I used to whack the puller bolt over and over again to get it moving...

[rickv1957 74]

Yes,they are very tough to remove for sure,Rick

[gzx3sc 0]

I've removed some stubborn hubs as well. What I've done that seems to work is to remove the locking studs and soak with PB Blaster for about a week before F-day, that is (frustration day). I have a used hub with a bad keyway that I put back to back and connect with 6 7/16" bolt and nuts so I can pull on the old hub with a puller. In my case a two jaw puller. I then crank up two propane torches and heat the hub. When the Pb-blaster starts boiling I start hitting it with an impact. So far I'm two for two. Could be luck but they weren't budging without heat.

There seems to be no in-between. Either they come loose due to leaky axle seals and wear out the key way or they freeze so tight you can't get them off.

As a Jack Ass president once said, "I feel your pain" :thumbs:

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,529]

I will be feeling that pain next week as I remove the rear end out of my auto 18 and pulling the hubs to put on the rear I have coming from Joe's Outdoor. The only good news is that the hubs on the new rear end are already off :thumbs:

[pfrederi 18,643]

I've removed some stubborn hubs as well. What I've done that seems to work is to remove the locking studs and soak with PB Blaster for about a week before F-day, that is (frustration day). I have a used hub with a bad keyway that I put back to back and connect with 6 7/16" bolt and nuts so I can pull on the old hub with a puller. In my case a two jaw puller. I then crank up two propane torches and heat the hub. When the Pb-blaster starts boiling I start hitting it with an impact. So far I'm two for two. Could be luck but they weren't budging without heat.

There seems to be no in-between. Either they come loose due to leaky axle seals and wear out the key way or they freeze so tight you can't get them off.

As a Jack Ass president once said, "I feel your pain"

Sounds like a simpler idea. I am not exactly clear what you put your puller on. Do you connect the junk hub flange to flange with the stuck one? then pull on the doubled up flange?? Or am I not understanding you correctly?

I made up a D series hub similar to the one I made for C series (pictured) but it didn't budge and it was clear one of the flanges was deforming and sure to break.

I put the long end of the center bolt against the axle and put the long bolts through the tractor hub flange.