Shuboxlover 480 #1 Posted January 9, 2010 Well my dad and I made the road trip this morning/afternoon (won't tell you how far it was cuz you'll think I'm crazy) but came home with this. 1976 C-160 Automatic with hydro lift. Model# 61-16KS02. With it came a 42" 1991 REAR DISCHARGE DECK Model# 1542RC02 I have wanted one of these for a while. It is in really decent shape, but need to clean it up and test it out before I give it my final approval. Also came with some misc. plow stuff and the rear attach bracket. I have many many MANY questions about this tractor as it is my first automatic, but will only ask a few right now. 1: I don't know if it runs (PO said it did when he parked it) aside from the usual maintenance stuff like oil, air filter, plug...what should I check (if any) before I try and fire her up? 2: This tractor has no PTO/clutch on it....on the dash is a switch that says electric clutch on/off, but on the right side of the hood stand, there is a lever for a manual clutch WHY? 3: last one for now. after I get the thing running (hopefully), what do I need to do/check for the automatic transmission? Please any advice is greatly appreciated. Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,880 #2 Posted January 9, 2010 Congratulations 1. Check the trans fluid (dip stick under the seat), also check that the tow valve is closed. There is usually a sticker on the left seat pan where your left calf would be. Be sure that the valve is closed, but don't crank down on it. 2. The dash panel has a spot for an electric clutch, but it didn't come with it. They ALL have that spot, and they all have a manual clutch 3. warm it up (drive it around). Once it's warmed up, take it up a hill to see if it loses power. Also cycle the hydraulic lift valve to be sure that all that works also. Congratulations! The C-160 Automatic is one great machine, and a true Wheel Horse classic., Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d180man 5 #3 Posted January 9, 2010 Hi good luck just do a good tune-up and get it running and check the tranz oil and if it works i would then get oil and filter to do the tranz ! on the pto i dont know on that part but some one here should ! :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,033 #4 Posted January 9, 2010 All the stuff you said plus I like to pull the gas tank and clean it and install new lines and a filter so you don't plug up ther carb with old crap from the tank, it has a plastic tank so rust is not a issue, you might want to take a few min. and clean some of the elect. plugs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shuboxlover 480 #5 Posted January 10, 2010 The thing that is weird is there is a switch in the dash where it says "electric clutch", I haven't had time (too cold) to trace where all the wires go, but maybe tomorrow. Also, will the pto/clutch assembly work, like off of a 312-8 if I got a different "sleeve" so it fits over the 1 1/8" crank shaft (i assume it is a 1 1/8')? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheel horse 1045 2 #6 Posted January 10, 2010 looks like you found a diamond in the ruff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 74 #7 Posted January 10, 2010 good find on your C160,a little tlc will go a long way,good luck!,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,465 #8 Posted January 10, 2010 The clutch bell will work with a 1-1/8" sleeve, yes. Evidently it may have had an electric but maybe it failed? Or, someone used that spot for some lights, ect.... Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 134 #9 Posted January 10, 2010 First thing I do is make sure there is oil in it and check for spark. Then go from there. Make sure you are getting gas. I seen these old Kohler's sit for awhile and start right up. A good cleaning of the carb. is usually needed and check for throttle shaft play. If you have to use fluid to help start it I use brake cleaner and not starting fluid, its a little easer on the engine. Once I get it running then I will change the oil, plug, points and condenser and filter as needed. After I got the engine were I want it then I move to the rear end. Check the belt and fluid. On the hydro's do like was already said and let it get good and warm and give it a good test. I will drive it back to our woods ( 1/2 mile one way ) then take it out to the ditch to see how will it still pulls. Change the filter and oil. If you haven't had to look at the wiring to get it started then this is a good time to do it. I will check to see that things are were they are supposed to be, the connections are clean and tight, wires are in good shape and out of the way and switches work. I will then give it a good greasing and check that things are tight, like the wheel hubs, steering, and everything else I can get at. This is not a diffenative way to do it but as a general rule a good starting point that works for me. Good Luck and I doubt to many here will laugh or think you are crazy at how far you drove to get it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whfan74 2,071 #10 Posted January 10, 2010 Congrats Tyson! That is one strong machine! I hope it doesn't take you too much work and will be out working in no time! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #11 Posted January 10, 2010 If you have to use fluid to help start it I use brake cleaner and not starting fluid, its a little easer on the engine. Be aware tha t there are some types of brake clean out here that arent flammable, and wont work... I guess we need the EPA, but they sure have killed most of the "good" chemicals we used to be able to get... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jusjeepn 59 #12 Posted January 10, 2010 Great find, have fun with it, great tractor! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #13 Posted January 10, 2010 If its been sitting for a long while, pull the plug and put a little Marvel Mystery oil in the hole. This will lube the cylinder, piston & rings(which might be somewhat stuck after sitting so long) and it will also lube the valve guides. Just turn the engine over a few times and let it set while you check out other stuff. It will smoke a good bit when started, but the plus side is your not starting it with a dry cylinder. just my .02. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rod(NASNUT) 1 #14 Posted January 10, 2010 Cool That is one I would like to find a C-160 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wingrider 21 #15 Posted January 10, 2010 I agree with all of the posts ahead of mine. I bought a 160 Auto this summer and did all of those things too, the only thing I'd suggest if you haven't started it yet is to check blower housing and the back side of the dash. I found almost a 5 gallon bucket of rat nests in these 2 places on mine that had set for a good many years. That is one stout tractor and I think you will not regret buying it once. I'm really enjoying mine this winter plowing and blowing snow with it, its unbelieveable what that blower will go thru. Goos luck wingrider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,532 #16 Posted January 10, 2010 I have to agree with Catman. Mystery oil is key. I used it on my 314 prior to starting it and it smoked for a good while and a lot but after it burned off it was well worth it to coat the interal parts. Looking forward to seeing you get her in shape. I am yet to find a C160. The closest thing I have is a C100. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 994 #17 Posted January 11, 2010 all great words of advice,i would add when u change the tranny oil and filter,buy the wheelhorse filter,its the proper filter that does not bypass when they get plugged,its worth the money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites