Docwheelhorse 2,778 #1 Posted December 22, 2009 Merry Xmas and Happy Holidays to all!!! Okay---what would you guys look at first if you had a 416-8 with the Kohler Magnum Single 16 and a constant draw that kills the battery. This tractor was re-wired by me down to the basics---no safety switches, no idiot lights, no nothing--but a solenoid, keyswitch and head/tail lights. With the engine off and the key off if I touch the negtative cable to the battery repeatedly I get a small spark. I guess it must be either the regulator or the stator---can't be the ignition, its a magneto after all . When the tractor is running it charges fine--- Which further agravates me because if the regulator or stator where toast it wouldn't charge. Tony Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 605 #2 Posted December 22, 2009 My guess is that you have a bad battery. I had one a year or so ago that would charge up work find until it sat a day or so then it wouldn't start. I took it back were bought it he said it was my charging system. I took it home put in a Toyota truck it did the same thing. I took it back an got a new one. Have you tested the battery with a load tester. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,162 #3 Posted December 22, 2009 If the hourmeter and voltmeter are hooked up correctly, they shouldn't draw when the key is off. Unplug the R/R and see if you still get the spark. If it's still there, plug it back in and then unplug the ignition switch and try again. Continue isolating the components until the spark goes away and you will find the draw. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #4 Posted December 22, 2009 Its hard to get a good idea from a visual spark test - I would place a multimeter in series with the battery + lead - you will see a amperage draw instead of the spark. Then one by one, disconnect wiring from each connection you do have left in your wiring harness until you see the amperage drop to zero. You will have found the pathway the current is flowing thru. I have a 416-8 currently undergoing surgery to get it back to its original - all switches , all indicators working status, but we can go step by step on this one and maybe make some headway. :notworthy: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocking 416 1 #5 Posted December 22, 2009 When i Check for Draw i use a test light. unhook the negtive - battry termnal and if it lights up you have a draw. Also i would check for good solid ground make sure its clean and tight :notworthy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #6 Posted December 22, 2009 When i Check for Draw i use a test light. unhook the negtive - battry termnal and if it lights up you have a draw. Also i would check for good solid ground make sure its clean and tight Agreed, if you have enough current flow to cause a spark - then the current will probably be significant enough to lite a test bulb. If its a smaller parasitic drain not strong enough to power an incandescent bulb, you will need a multimeter on the milliamp scale. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocking 416 1 #7 Posted December 22, 2009 But still on a tractor wear most of the wires should be accesible i would be looking for exposed / cut / frayed wires / burnt wutever you want to call them. bad connections I had one somone installed wrong key switch the self grounding key switch an i replaced it with a spare an that stoped my battry from draining but then again it could be a walmart battry they usally dont hold up in the colder months Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh500special 2,338 #8 Posted December 22, 2009 but then again it could be a walmart battry they usally dont hold up in the colder months This should be independent of the battery, but it might be bad too (especially if it has deep discharged a number of times). Somewhere in the wiring is a completed pathway allowing electrons to find their way from the negative battery terminal to the positive. The other tips should help you zero in on where that leak might be. I have a 520-8 that developed this exact condition after trailering it to dad's for 220 miles. Something must have bounced loose or chaffed somewhere making a high resistance short circuit. Before that, everything was fine. Have I ever mentioned I really, really prefer recoil start tractors? Good luck isolating your short, Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docwheelhorse 2,778 #9 Posted January 11, 2010 Hello All--- I didn't find anything wrong... So....... I put in a battery dis-connect on the negative terminal. This tractor has my 10kw generator hanging on it----when I need the tractor i will re-connect the battery via the switch and be on my way. Tony P.S>---it does suck that I have to re-set the clock and all the radio pre-sets every time I disconnect the battery.... But on the bright side---it resets the computer so the check engine light stays off for awhile :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,571 #10 Posted January 11, 2010 Tony, did you ever use a multimeter on amps to get an idea of how much current was flowing out the battery ?? :thumbs: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites