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HankB

Tiller vertical travel

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HankB

I'm installing an older tiller on my 314-H. I have the adapter kit that adds the lift plate to the tiller sheet metal and has a modified rock shaft that installs under the seat.

I'm using the furthest out connection on the forward rock shaft that pulls the cable and have adjusted the cable length for maximum travel. (It is a home made cable.) I have adjusted the chain to the tiller to provide about 2 inches of clearance (tines to ground) when the tiller is fully raised. I've hung it out over a step and found that when fully lowered, it comes down only about 5 inches.

That doesn't seem like a lot. I'm wondering if anyone else has looked at this to see what vertical travel you get. It seems to me that I'll only get about 3" tilling depth with this setup and that's less than I expect.

My first thought is that I have something setup wrong, but I have all connections as specified in any of the instructions I've been able to find.

My next thought is how to work around this deficiency. I think the simplest method would be to adjust the tiller lower and then use an S hook to temporarily shorten the chain for transport. I don't think a little dragging will matter on dirt, but I don't want the tiller dragging on pavement. But it still seems to me that the tiller has to at least come up to ground level to avoid problems when turning.

Another possibility is to add a lever or cable/pulley to multiply travel on the chain at the tiller. But that also multiplies the load on the hydraulic cylinder. What is the risk that I could overload the cylinder by doing that?

I'm curious if anyone else has run into this and how they resolved it.

thanks,

hank

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sawhorse

Perhaps the modified rock shaft that installs under the seat could be further

modified. The one that is on my 310-8 has several lift notches built in. I have

never measured the lift distance of my tiller so I don't know if I am getting any

more depth than you. If anyone here has any tips on increasing the lift range

of the cable lift, please share them here.

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jtmoyer

5" sounds about right. the center of the tiller rides in the dirt and keeps it from sinking in farther. i make a second pass offset to the first and that takes it down more. the 8 speed rock shaft has notches and i use the higher one for transport and the lower one for tilling, the hydro does not have notches and i just shorten the cable that i connect to the tiller for travel. my cylinder is starting to seep and needs to be rebuilt so i hook a strap on to the back of the tiller so i can help lift the tiller.

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WheelHorse_of_course

Are you sure you are using the correct hole in the lift arm?

:thumbs::WRS: :notworthy:

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HankB

Are you sure you are using the correct hole in the lift arm?

To the best of my knowledge, yes. On the forward arm, I'm using the hole furthest from the shaft. Someone posted a diagram in another thread that labels all of these holes so that one was a gimme.

On the arm under the seat, there is one pin on which to connect the chain.

Thanks all for the replies.

-hank

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TT

Maybe I'm not reading your post correctly, but the cable attaches to the bottom hole in the arm pointing down - not the arm that points toward the front of the tractor.

cb9bc073.jpg

The single-hole bell crank under the fenders is actually intended for use with the clevis hitch but will work with a tiller. You do lose the ability to "field adjust" the lift position you would have with the 3 slot bell crank though.

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HankB

Maybe I'm not reading your post correctly, but the cable attaches to the bottom hole in the arm pointing down - not the arm that points toward the front of the tractor.

The single-hole bell crank under the fenders is actually intended for use with the clevis hitch but will work with a tiller. You do lose the ability to "field adjust" the lift position you would have with the 3 slot bell crank though.

I'm not so good at describing things without a picture (and too much a lazy bastage to dig it out of the other thread. :notworthy: )

I followed the directions I had found in various PDFs though the illustration you included is labeled much better. Yes, I'm using the hole labeled "Rear Hitch/Tiller Lift Cable."

Yes, the bell crank under the fender only has the one attachment point. I think I can field adjust using different links on the chain.

Thanks for helping to clarify.

-hank

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