Picked up a '98 314-8

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

Picked up this '98 314-8.

It does have a couple of issues. The seat switch seems faulty as it sometimes dies, but will restart if I shift my weight in the seat. Also the clutch pedal sticks and the drive belt seems loose. Any help and advice is appreciated.

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,284]

Looking good. If it works like mine, the seat switch works in conjunction with the PTO switches. To test the seat switch, you should just disconnect it, if everything works that is the issue. On the newer machines like yours, the seat switch is inside the seat, and I am not sure if it can be replaced as a separate item.

If the clutch is sticking, take the center cover off (the one between the seat and dash) and check to see if there is a lot of grass clippings and such. Check all the linkage and libercate everything nicely. If the clutch linkage is working properly and it is still slipping, you may need to replace the belt. When replacing the belt replace the idler pulley as well.

Nice looking machine!

[Rollerman 290]

Treed nice find....this isn't the one that was 4hrs away?

A new drive belt will probably make a big improvement & don't forget the idler like Karl says.

I like the ammo boxes on your trailer.

I think I'll have to find a pair to keep my straps in!

Stephen in northern IN

[Sparky-(Admin) 23,730]

Man...all you guys with your "look what I just picked up today" stories are killin me! I havent seen an old Wheel Horse for sale or being thrown out for what seems like forever around here.

Mike...with new/old tractor envy :D

[Rollerman 290]

Sorry Mike...if it helps I'm broke after the 2nd D series....

I beleive I've filled my quota this year.....but did have a guy call about a 310 yesterday...& then there's that 417 I'm gonna have a look at.......

Part of the fun of this hobby is bringing in new ones...selling of the ones I don't want to generate more money for the "Horsefund"

...or giveing them to Dad..LOL

Stephen in northern IN...always on the lookout...even if my wallet is thinner than the metal in an MTD mower deck!

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

Treed nice find....this isn't the one that was 4hrs away?

A new drive belt will probably make a big improvement & don't forget the idler like Karl says.

I like the ammo boxes on your trailer.

I think I'll have to find a pair to keep my straps in!

Stephen in northern IN

Yes, it's the same one, except it was 400 miles away. I lucked out, a member over on wfm was coming down near me to pick up a JD 110 and a chipper/shredder. So he picked it up for me and brought it down. I only had to drive about 80 miles then to get it.

As for changing the drive belt, any suggestions and/or advice would be appreciated. Also if anyone has a service manual and can scan the related pages I'd appreciate that also. It appears Toro doesn't offer the service manual for this particular tractor so I can download or purchase.

The ammo cans, it's a dirty solution for storing the straps. I wanted to find a box I can place on the tongue, but couldn't find one the right size. So I found these at a Carquest for about $8 or $9 each and bought two of them and did a quick and hasty rattle can paint job and mounted them.

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,284]

Here's what I did for my 414-8. I removed the right foot board, the seat and seat pan. Of course paying careful attention to what the bolts are holding up. Next I removed the belt cover and center plate. Finally, disconnect the mower drive belt, PTO linkage and the PTO brake. Depress the clutch and the belt should come right off. I have heard that it is best to replace the belt with a Toro branded belt, others have had problems with other brands. Don't forget a new idler pulley.

I took everything apart so I could inspect, clean and lubricate all the linkages and components. At that time I also replaced the fuel line since it was easy to do with everything apart. You can even adjust the brake, instructions should be in your owners manual. Don't adjust the plunger looking device, I believe that is a damper in the event you release the clutch too fast.

Once you've got it all cleaned and lubricated up, you can put it all back together. The bet guard is part of the clutch assembly so the clutch may not operate properly without it in place. Take your time, it isn't hard to do and there isn't much holding all of this together either.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

Karl,

Thanks. I also notice the clutch pedal vibrates and it also sticks to a point that I have to pulled it up with my foot to disengage the clutch. Hopefully a new belt will solve this, and also I need to inspect the pulleys to be sure there isn't dirt or defective pulleys that would cause the clutch petal to vibrate.

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,284]

If it is sticking, you will probably want to find out why. I don't think that the belt will do that. You can take off both sides and lubricate the entire thing, clean it up and check the clutch spring. Once you're in there it will make more sense. Maybe you don't need a belt, but it is just something binding somewhere. You should not need to pull the clutch back up by hand. Taking everything off really doesn't take that long and maybe you'll find a free solution to the problem.

[Curmudgeon 28]

Good call there nylyon. If the clutch is hanging up, a new belt might not be required. On the other hand, if the belt is severely worn, and longer/narrower, the idler pulley/clutch might be trying to travel beyond it's designed limits in an attempt to tighten the belt.

Only one way to know for sure...... pull it apart and have a looky see.

Dale, in Michigan

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

I hope to tear into this weekend, weather permitting. I drove it around again yesterday evening and cut some grass with it (where there was actually grass growing at as there's been a drought here). My further observations is that the clutch will go up, but not enough to disengage, I have to pull it up the last inch or so to get it to disengage. There is a noise coming from the belts, i.e. either the drive belt (more likely) or the mower belt. The clutch pedal vibrates when in gear on when in neutral (this also could be the noise describe above). The belt does appear loose rather this is from the clutch pedal not disengaging properly or not, I'm not sure. Hopefully I will find out more when I pull the panels off and have a closer look. Question would this be the cause of my clutch problem:?

The spring in the red box - could this be weak allowing the clutch to vibrate and stick?

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,284]

It looks like WH moved from a spring and damper separate to a spring / damper combine. From the diagram it almost looks like a prop rod for a hood. That would be something to look at, but also the peddle has a grease zerk, be sure to get that a shor or two, and where the linkage goes through the frame. You'll be surprised how easily it all comes apart. Hint, don't be afraid to remove the foot boards, it makes things a lot easier.

You'll have everything apart in about 15 minutes, it goes quite quickly. For the vibration, I suppose that part could do that, but I would lean more towards the idler pulley. If you're pulling everything apart, you might as well get the new belt and pulley too.

[Rollerman 290]

After my dad mowed & plowed the first season on his 310 the clutch peddle would "chatter"

Sounds an awfull lot like what was going on with his.

The belt had streched & the idler wasn't as smooth as new.

I replaced these & the "chatter" went away.

It's a simple job to take tin off the side...might have fun!

Stephen in northern IN

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

After my dad mowed & plowed the first season on his 310 the clutch peddle would "chatter"

Sounds an awfull lot like what was going on with his.

The belt had streched & the idler wasn't as smooth as new.

I replaced these & the "chatter" went away.

It's a simple job to take tin off the side...might have fun!

Stephen in northern IN

I used the tractor again last evening and it appears that the clutch is not sticking like it was. Maybe with a little more use and some grease it won't be an issue. The vibration and chattering is still there, so it looks like I will be tearing into it soon. I price a new belt and idler, $27.58 and $9.99 respectively.

First though I need to replace the water pump on my Dakota. :D

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,643]

Ah yes, I forgot to mentioned this. I downloaded the operator's manual and took a gander at the electrical schematic. The seat switch is closed when the operator is on the seat. So just disconnecting the switch and leaving it disconnected is a no-go. So I disconnected it and jumper across the connector. So now it starts and does not cut out anymore. I did noticed the connections corroded and dirty so I might just go ahead and clean them and reconnect the switch.

[nylyon-(Admin) 8,284]

Your 314 is more like my 416. I haven't had any problems with the 416 so I don't have any experience with the repairs on these. All my experience is on the 414-8 which is a little different with the safety switches I guess. The 416-H has given 13 years of trouble free service, not too bad! Of course, I probably just jinxed myself. :D