1970 electro 12 key switch

[lorenzo 0]

looking to replace my key switch on my electro 12 tractor [the L leg is not working, lights, clutch, lighter, etc.] the parts list show's part # 8362 it's a 5-pin switch marked B-M-S-R and L according to the wiring diagram. I can't find a 5-pin switch with those exact letters or part number. Are all 5-pin switch's the same even if the letters are different?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,522]

No 5-pin switches are all different.

Up until now the 8362 switch was still available from Toro but looks like that has ended. It was a very expensive and heavy duty switch that carried the full current required for the starter motor. What many have done in the past is replace it with a lighter duty and less expensive switch plus add a starter solenoid to carry the starter load. The heavy wires going to the switch can be replaced with 14 gauge wires and a plug in connector can be added for the new switch.

Your 8362 switch has 4-key positions. A less expensive and more common 103991 switch is a 3-key position switch which should work because you have a separate light switch.

A 1960's - 70's Ford solenoid is a good choice

 

[lorenzo 0]

Thank you for the information

[953 nut 70,079]

8 hours ago, lorenzo said:

r. Are all 5-pin switch's the same even if the letters are different?

Using the wrong switch would destroy your ignition system. As Gary told you the best way to go is replace the old switch with a 103991 and a solenoid. This diagram shows the wiring system using that switch and solenoid. Your electric PTO clutch will also be fed from the "A" terminal but should have a separate fuse.

 

[ri702bill 13,275]

1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

from the "A" terminal but should have a separate fuse.

Absolutely add the fuse. When an electromagnetic cluth fails, it's one of 2 scenarios... the circuit goes "open" and nothing happens - or - the coil shorts to ground and THAT is why you need the fuse. There is quite an inrush of current - a spike - when the clutch is engaged and the rating of the fuse must be able to tolerate that...

It is always better to get the high amperage load out of the keyswitch by using a solenoid - a device that was designed to do just that. The keyswitch lives longer that way.

Do NOT just change to the 103991 keyswitch without adding the solenoid.....

[evanloock 269]

Wonder if the switch is still available from Indak?   The E464A seems to be it.  I am going to see if I can get any info from Indak.4 Position Key Switches (Stamped Keys) - INDAK Switches.pdf

[lorenzo 0]

Got it, thanks guys

[953 nut 70,079]

2 hours ago, evanloock said:

Wonder if the switch is still available from Indak?   The E464A seems to be it.  I am going to see if I can get any info from Indak.4 Position Key Switches (Stamped Keys) - INDAK Switches.pdf

What model and year Wheel Horse are you seeking a switch for?   Once we know this information we can give a more intelligent answer.

The E464A is what was used on most early '70s Wheel Horses equipped with an electric PTO. The fourth position was to connect the solenoid to the battery alone. This reduced the load on the battery by preventing the lights and PTO from being powered while starting. 

A 103991 switch is a three position ignition switch for magneto ignition units. Your PTO switch probably has four wires going to it, two of those wires will not allow the starter to turn over while the PTO is in the ON position so the fourth position is not needed.

[lorenzo 0]

I have a 1970 electro 12: the switch works fine except I don't have any lights- no voltage from the switch "L" terminal, no problems starting or running. I think I'll just run a separate wire from the battery to power the lights, clutch(PTO), etc. I use this tractor as a plow tractor so I don't need the PTO to work.

[pfrederi 21,274]

An Electro depending on the year can have one of 3 different ignition systems.  2 require a magneto switch on not.  Using the wrong one an a magneto breakerless system will result in expensive smoke.