From this to that.

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

I took my time when I picked this up in the middle of the summer. It’s going to be my winter project so I decided to tear it down to the frame and clean it. Also go through one part at a time on assembly.. It’s never gonna be a pretty tractor.Or a show peace but it will be something you can use at the shows or just riding around the house. I’ve always wanted this model but I never could pull the trigger on one.I hope you enjoy the pics. 

[953 nut 69,752]

Thanks for inviting us along for the ride.                           

[peter lena 10,082]

@Retired Wrencher like the , opportunities  of a bare frame ? lets you enhance things as you go ? the inner upper  frame corner , easily  holds a steel  brake line  1/4  or 5/16  , ELIMANATING  THAT  FUEL HOSE BREAK DOWN ?  ALSO THE PTO  LEVER SET UP ? loaded with  easy , improvements . like a roller stool ride around , so its a comfortable , look / see trial , done a lot of that  ,  when you  paint an  improvement  RED / BLACK , it  disappears . only a suggestion .  patana  oiled finish , would be easy , and era  correct . mule drive set up  , gold mine for functional detailing , tried marvel mystery oil , on a paint soak , for days , perfect  patina , enjoy it . pete  

[ri702bill 13,170]

Well - so far, so good. One item - the lower portion of the "F" plate with the booger-snot welds holding the patch in place. All that must be ground smooth to get the proper fit and support of the Unidrive. Thet area always traps water & rusts. Fix the welds, grind or wire wheel the whole face of the plate, prime & paint. It will last another 50 years...

Edited 21 hours ago by ri702bill

[James Wright 3]

The point about the F plate trapping water is worth heeding, since that corrosion tends to come back if the welds aren't dressed properly. Grinding the face flat before priming makes sense for the Unidrive support to sit right. On the patina side, an oiled finish does suit the era better than fresh paint, though I'd be cautious about how much soak any bare steel gets before assembly. The roller stool idea is practical too, letting you test fit and check clearances without straining. Nice to see this moving forward.

[peter lena 10,082]

@James Wright  been doing lubrication paint  maintenance for years ,  don't even think about it , just do it , every time I see  dull  faded  finish , and its so easy  , do it in stages , and go  slow , letting the paint get  warm  in sun . or dry inside , dare to try a spot , pete

 

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

22 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Thanks for inviting us along for the ride.                           

Thanks for the reply Richard.I have a engine. Sparkey Aka Mike and I traded engines. He wanted the Start/ Gen as a back up that was in there and I needed a yank engine. So it all worked out. I have been collecting parts for it all ready.. Brian Badmon had a new in the original bag a switch for it. Got lucky there. Once it is clean I can start assembly. Thanks for the reply.

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

21 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Retired Wrencher like the , opportunities  of a bare frame ? lets you enhance things as you go ? the inner upper  frame corner , easily  holds a steel  brake line  1/4  or 5/16  , ELIMANATING  THAT  FUEL HOSE BREAK DOWN ?  ALSO THE PTO  LEVER SET UP ? loaded with  easy , improvements . like a roller stool ride around , so its a comfortable , look / see trial , done a lot of that  ,  when you  paint an  improvement  RED / BLACK , it  disappears . only a suggestion .  patana  oiled finish , would be easy , and era  correct . mule drive set up  , gold mine for functional detailing , tried marvel mystery oil , on a paint soak , for days , perfect  patina , enjoy it . pete  

Good post Pete. I will keep this in mind.

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

20 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Well - so far, so good. One item - the lower portion of the "F" plate with the booger-snot welds holding the patch in place. All that must be ground smooth to get the proper fit and support of the Unidrive. Thet area always traps water & rusts. Fix the welds, grind or wire wheel the whole face of the plate, prime & paint. It will last another 50 years...

Wow Bill thanks. That is from the back any way. I just never look at. I did not see that. I have a bunch sanding pads from course to fine that will fix this in no time. I also have an E-lift from the ceiling of the garage this will make it easy to fix and and clean and assemble small parts. No bending your back, wrenching your neck, to get something on the frame.  Thanks for the reply.

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

11 hours ago, peter lena said:

@James Wright  been doing lubrication paint  maintenance for years ,  don't even think about it , just do it , every time I see  dull  faded  finish , and its so easy  , do it in stages , and go  slow , letting the paint get  warm  in sun . or dry inside , dare to try a spot , pete

 

Pete the paint is bad.It is a maroon type cover on it so I’m not worried about that and I’m sure as heck not standing everything down and repainting it. 

[Retired Wrencher 7,009]

16 hours ago, James Wright said:

The point about the F plate trapping water is worth heeding, since that corrosion tends to come back if the welds aren't dressed properly. Grinding the face flat before priming makes sense for the Unidrive support to sit right. On the patina side, an oiled finish does suit the era better than fresh paint, though I'd be cautious about how much soak any bare steel gets before assembly. The roller stool idea is practical too, letting you test fit and check clearances without straining. Nice to see this moving forward.

Thanks for the reply James. Good info. I am in no hurry to finish this. I need something to do in the winter time, every day for a few hours.

Edited 3 hours ago by Retired Wrencher