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Wheelhorse electrical diagnostic questions

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FLtractor

Afternoon,

 

when using a multimeter- what would be the proper way to check the ignition switch terminals and starter to see if that’s where my no start noise problem lies? 
I have one of those 7 function multimeter from harbor freight- lost manual so been looking online but still confused.would not allow me to attach picture of mutimeter I have, as Wheelhorse website states I have used all my attachment space. 

Edited by FLtractor

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702854boy

If the multimeter has an ohm setting on it, signified by an upside down horseshoe, you can hook one prong up to the b(battery) terminal and see if the continuity to the other terminals. If there is continuity it should read 0. Even better if the meter has the beep function because then it will beep if there is continuity. 

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squonk

No. 1 Become a supporter and have unlimited picture posting capability.

 

No.2 DO NOT have the battery connected using a meter on OHMS. You can destroy the meter.

 

What do you mean by " No Start Noise?" 

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FLtractor
12 minutes ago, 702854boy said:

If the multimeter has an ohm setting on it, signified by an upside down horseshoe, you can hook one prong up to the b(battery) terminal and see if the continuity to the other terminals. If there is continuity it should read 0. Even better if the meter has the beep function because then it will beep if there is continuity. 

Thank you for the info. Not sure it has continuous beep. 

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FLtractor
6 minutes ago, squonk said:

No. 1 Become a supporter and have unlimited picture posting capability.

 

No.2 DO NOT have the battery connected using a meter on OHMS. You can destroy the meter.

 

What do you mean by " No Start Noise?" 

#1. I wonder if my membership has expired .. been a year already I wonder.. gonna have to check. 
#2. So even with a cable going from starter to ignition switch “S” terminal.. without battery connected- the meter will Still read when electrical output level? 
#3. ever since I moved the ignition switch to a different much better fitting dash hole- of 856- that’s when the starter made softer nosies when key turned then eventually sounded like a soft electrical air puff fart noise then nothing. 
 

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squonk
1 minute ago, FLtractor said:

#1. I wonder if my membership has expired .. been a year already I wonder.. gonna have to check. 
#2. So even with a cable going from starter to ignition switch “S” terminal.. without battery connected- the meter will Still read when electrical output level? 
#3. ever since I moved the ignition switch to a different much better fitting dash hole- of 856- that’s when the starter made softer nosies when key turned then eventually sounded like a soft electrical air puff fart noise then nothing. 
 

Redo your membership and post pics of your wiring. 

 

Ohm setting measure continuity through a wire not voltage.

 

Are all the generator mounting points clean with no rust, dirt and paint? 

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Achto
1 hour ago, FLtractor said:

wonder if my membership has expired .. been a year already I wonder.. gonna have to check. 

 

Click on Store(support RS) on the line a the top of the page. Should be some thing pending for you to renew.

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FLtractor
17 hours ago, squonk said:

Redo your membership and post pics of your wiring. 

 

Ohm setting measure continuity through a wire not voltage.

 

Are all the generator mounting points clean with no rust, dirt and paint? 

So I found out today.. I still have active membership, but my attachment uploads for posts apparently far exceeded the 16mg total limit, so deleted over 300 attachments to posts I’ve made here in last year. 
Here are pictures of ignition switch, voltage regulator, starter, negative ground to engine. When i turn the key.. nothing happens.. no noises, no clicks. The small black wires you see on the “I” terminal are from when I took off the Starter generator charging jewel gem dash light wires- haven’t replaced those wires. The older wire that goes from starter terminal back behind the starter generator- I would have to open the starter to see if it’s lose and my issue? Since I believe I wired everything correctly in pictures- ignition, negative ground good, sanded starter terminal on starter. IMG_3895.jpeg.21e942a75f0d185d9030e7166123ca60.jpeg

IMG_3902.jpeg

IMG_3901.jpeg

IMG_3900.jpeg

IMG_3899.jpeg

IMG_3898.jpeg

IMG_3896.jpeg

Edited by FLtractor

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squonk

I see bad /dirty connections:

 

b3.jpg.75cb331fbb1c2c9a238954291a4bebd8.jpg

 

Broken frayed wires. = voltage loss

 

b1.jpg.023a2ea65d021e6d1072805c74487729.jpg

 

Dirty connections, rusty fasteners, frayed wires = voltage loss. Rusty adjustment bolt, rusty attachment points = voltage loss on the ground side.

 

b2.jpg.a31f0a6fdedf3c9c7e20b7f39fcb576e.jpg

 

Bad ground connection. Rusty bolt, rusty/dirty block = voltage loss on ground side.

 

It takes 60 amps to crank over a Kohler 8. you need everything clean, tight and no frayed wiring

 

 

 

 

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FLtractor
19 hours ago, squonk said:

No. 1 Become a supporter and have unlimited picture posting capability.

 

No.2 DO NOT have the battery connected using a meter on OHMS. You can destroy the meter.

 

What do you mean by " No Start Noise?" 

#2.. if battery not supposed to be wired up.. then how is meter going to get any reading at all? You mentioned conuality with omhs… have attached picture of the meter.. ohms upside down horseshoe is 2000k option? If you mean only hook up the negative terminal. And check the B ignition terminal with black prong.. hold it there while check every other starter generator connection with red meter prong? Meter has no continuity beep function.

IMG_3904.jpeg

Edited by FLtractor

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FLtractor
1 hour ago, squonk said:

I see bad /dirty connections:

 

b3.jpg.75cb331fbb1c2c9a238954291a4bebd8.jpg

 

Broken frayed wires. = voltage loss

 

b1.jpg.023a2ea65d021e6d1072805c74487729.jpg

 

Dirty connections, rusty fasteners, frayed wires = voltage loss. Rusty adjustment bolt, rusty attachment points = voltage loss on the ground side.

 

b2.jpg.a31f0a6fdedf3c9c7e20b7f39fcb576e.jpg

 

Bad ground connection. Rusty bolt, rusty/dirty block = voltage loss on ground side.

 

It takes 60 amps to crank over a Kohler 8. you need everything clean, tight and no frayed wiring

 

Going to get the sand paper and clean up the terminals and bolts, connection points. Sand tractor body where bolt connects negative ground battery. Remove the frayed wires. See if that works after I figure out using my meter to see if it getting any power at all. 

 

 

 

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FLtractor
19 hours ago, 702854boy said:

If the multimeter has an ohm setting on it, signified by an upside down horseshoe, you can hook one prong up to the b(battery) terminal and see if the continuity to the other terminals. If there is continuity it should read 0. Even better if the meter has the beep function because then it will beep if there is continuity. 

Meter has no continuity beep feature. 

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FLtractor

Update: Starter is no good. Dunno anything about rebuilding starters generator  .. nor anyone local that does anymore .. what would a new, old starter generator cost these days? Attempted to jump it and only sparks.. no starting attempt turning over noise. Would like to check engine if able to turn over and not locked up and of still good  usable condition before buying starter generator is bolt to put ratchet on underneath flywheel cover screen?

Edited by FLtractor

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pfrederi

Well if he engine is locked up then the S/G isn't going to spin it. Also if the ground is bad she won't spin. Did this thing ever work???

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FLtractor
1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Well if he engine is locked up then the S/G isn't going to spin it. Also if the ground is bad she won't spin. Did this thing ever work???

Where is the starter generator grounded? Since if I jumped it using cables on the starter terminal .. which means bypassed the ground battery cable that’s in the engine block- didn’t use that this time.. just grounded to tractor frame.. then what ground is there other than jumper cable ground? I don’t believe the tractor engine is locked up.. I just was told by a very helpful neighbor mechanic who’s helped me with various issues I’ve had with the tractor, he worked for Sears for 35 years .. but was just suggesting i might want to check if it turned over all way by hand before investing more time parts money ect being its 60 years old .. last time ran drove was 2? Months ago. When I got the tractor last year April it was running driving stopping ect. 

 

Would this be a good video to follow to rebuild the 856 starter? 

Edited by FLtractor

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