KT17 Pushrod length w/ points opening twice / revolution

[Bull 39]

Hello Members,

I have been working on getting my KT17 series 2 running again but ran into the following issue. I went to replace the points and condenser prior to placing the engine back onto the frame and found that while the points begin to open at the S mark and fully at the T mark they also reopen further before the flywheel completes one revolution. 

I am worried about cam failure or possible pushrod degradation and was wondering if anyone knows the proper length of the pushrod and minimum length for it to work. I don't want to pull the motor apart to replace the cam and might have to go possibly electronic if the pushrod length is acceptable. Any suggestions would be appreciated .

 

Regards,

Bob

 

[pfrederi 21,044]

there are 2 different push rods for KT 17 II  What is your spec #

[Bull 39]

Hello,

My spec # is 24350 ad engine serial Number:14220438.

[pfrederi 21,044]

That spec # is beyond what my manual shows....  The Rehlko site only has one spec number listed (not much help there anymore )  

 

The most common push rod and used in the engines WH used is 52 411 01 which was superseded to  52 411 05

 

Either way they are both discontinued

[953 nut 68,471]

6 hours ago, Bull said:

points begin to open at the S mark and fully at the T mark they also reopen further before the flywheel completes one revolution. 

Sounds like you haven't adjusted the ignition points correctly. Have you set the ignition points using this method?

• Find the wide opening: Rotate the engine crankshaft or flywheel by hand until the lobe forces the breaker points to their widest possible opening. 

• Loosen the screw: Slightly loosen the mounting screw that holds the points bracket so the plate can slide with gentle pressure. 

• Set the gap: Insert a 0.020-inch feeler gauge between the point contacts. Adjust the bracket using a screwdriver in the adjustment slot until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge. 

• Tighten and verify: Tighten the securing screw firmly. Recheck the gap with the feeler gauge to make sure it did not shift when tightened.

[Bull 39]

Hello Everyone,

I redid my procedure and maybe being tired last night and with my eyesight not being what it once was everything turned out fine. Thanks for all your input. I did see those pushrods mentioned by Paul on EBAY if anyone ever needs them. Price points are all over the place. I am getting a little bit closer to remounting the engine on the frame. I redid the rings, re-honed the cylinders, cleaned the valves, and brought them up to standard clearances. I am hoping she will start up in a couple of weeks.

 

Regards,

Bob