Carter N carb.

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

 I have one of those carter carbs. Just would like to know what the setting is for these. Are they like Kohler carbs meaning on top of the carb it 2 turns and on the bottom is 21/2. It ideals fine  but when you accelerate it seems to sputter. Let me know if this is right or wrong. Thanks in advance.

[Achto 32,346]

58 minutes ago, Retired Wrencher said:

 I have one of those carter carbs.

 

The Carter carbs are usually the better ones. A good starting point is 2 turns on the main jet (top screw) and 1 1/2 turns on the low speed jet (side screw)

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 06:34 PM by Achto

[rmaynard 17,527]

 

Sputtering can occur when the throttle shaft has too much play. 

[ri702bill 12,804]

Good advise. The sputter may be at the transition point of coming from the idle circuit and onto the main one. Try richening up the main a bit....

The idle mix screw is solid - the main is not. It is hollow and has a set of tiny air bleed holes that must be kept fully open. If there is a restriction or clog, the carb most likely will never be able to be properly adjusted.  Severely worn throttle shaft & bores (bushings) can also make for erratic or impossible tuning...

The attached Kohler carb Manual is extensive, but packed with good info.

 

 

Kohler_Carb_Manual_TP-2377-E.pdf

Edited Wednesday at 08:09 PM by ri702bill

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

All good info guys. I will mess with it in the AM. Hopping to run this at Zagray in October. Last show of the year. 

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

7 hours ago, rmaynard said:

 

Sputtering can occur when the throttle shaft has too much play. 

Bob why do they call it a Kohler carbs when it is a Carter?

[wallfish 20,510]

Keep in mind,  those settings in the manual are the initial settings or preliminary settings to get it started and running. They are not meant to be Gospel for every engine

There is no specific amount of turns that will work for every engine. Those factory specs are so it will start and run. Then final adjustments should be made.

EVERY engine is different so adjusting the carb afterwards to that particular engine and that particular carb should always be done. Engines and carbs wear over time so adjusting the carb to each particular situation will "dial it in" so it runs efficiently. 

I know a lot of people will just set those turns of the jets exactly to the manual and call it good but then skip the important part about making the final adjustments because it runs. 

Edited yesterday at 03:14 AM by wallfish

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

Thanks John. I will play with it to day.

6 hours ago, wallfish said:

Keep in mind,  those settings in the manual are the initial settings or preliminary settings to get it started and running. They are not meant to be Gospel for every engine

There is no specific amount of turns that will work for every engine. Those factory specs are so it will start and run. Then final adjustments should be made.

EVERY engine is different so adjusting the carb afterwards to that particular engine and that particular carb should always be done. Engines and carbs wear over time so adjusting the carb to each particular situation will "dial it in" so it runs efficiently. 

I know a lot of people will just set those turns of the jets exactly to the manual and call it good but then skip the important part about making the final adjustments because it runs. 

This was rebuilt by Eric, he does all my carbs. 

[squonk 47,887]

An engine may also run fine under no load and then have issues as it's actually "working" and visa versa.  All of my big blocks have an intermittent blip with no load but are fine with the hydro engaged or in gear moving.

[953 nut 68,477]

46 minutes ago, squonk said:

An engine may also run fine under no load and then have issues as it's actually "working" and visa versa.  All of my big blocks have an intermittent blip with no load but are fine with the hydro engaged or in gear moving.

Working engines do require a bit more fuel than one that is just asked to increase RPMs without a load. Running a bit rich is preferable to running too lean and the governor is a bit slow to react to large changes in throttle position.             

[sqrlgtr 3,698]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

An engine may also run fine under no load and then have issues as it's actually "working" and visa versa.  All of my big blocks have an intermittent blip with no load but are fine with the hydro engaged or in gear moving.

Same here, With just a hint of black smoke when I throttle up real quick.

[rmaynard 17,527]

19 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said:

Bob why do they call it a Kohler carbs when it is a Carter?

Kohler carbs were made by Carter and Walbro. In the Kohler manual it's easier to just refer to them as Kohler carbs.

 

However, a Tecumseh HH100, which uses a Tecumseh carb, can also use a Carter with some minor modifications. 

Edited 14 hours ago by rmaynard

[ineedanother 2,803]

19 hours ago, wallfish said:

Keep in mind,  those settings in the manual are the initial settings or preliminary settings to get it started and running. Then final adjustments should be made.

 

IMO, once it's running those settings have no value. Find the center between rich and lean and then do final adjustments for acceleration and under load. When those are optimal or just a bit rich, set the idle speed and high RPM.

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

11 hours ago, rmaynard said:

Kohler carbs were made by Carter and Walbro. In the Kohler manual it's easier to just refer to them as Kohler carbs.

 

However, a Tecumseh HH100, which uses a Tecumseh carb, can also use a Carter with some minor modifications. 

Thanks Bob I always wondered about that. Have a great day.

[Retired Wrencher 6,918]

10 hours ago, ineedanother said:

IMO, once it's running those settings have no value. Find the center between rich and lean and then do final adjustments for acceleration and under load. When those are optimal or just a bit rich, set the idle speed and high RPM.

Thanks for the post @ineedanother.