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truckin88

C-120-8 Speed rear wheel slides

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truckin88

Why is it that my tractors both break at the same time.

Anyways, my C-120's left rear wheel and hub slid on the axle to side and rub against the tranny. The key on the hub was really loose. This is the second time it has happened in 4 months.... any ideas???

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stevebo

Will,

There should be a set screw and nut that goes through the hub. If it is not there then it fell out... Take a look at the other side or the 312.

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oldandred

theres a good answer like stevebo said they should be checked at least once a month unless you know there tight

also check the hub to see if the key way is worn out from side to side the key should be a tight fit

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truckin88

Will,

There should be a set screw and nut that goes through the hub. If it is not there then it fell out... Take a look at the other side or the 312.

it is there (the square bolt on the hub right?).....It is lose though, so I am goign to jack it up and pull it forward and retighten, but this happened before, any suggestions?

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Save Old Iron

best to remove the wheel and hub completely from the shaft and inspect the shaft ( maybe the keyway is mushroomed out from a loose woodruff key) and check the inside of the hub ( could be hollowed out from the hub grinding down on the loose woodruff key)

you might be surprised to see the damage a loose hub set screw can cause over time.

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pfrederi

it is there (the square bolt on the hub right?).....It is lose though, so I am goign to jack it up and pull it forward and retighten, but this happened before, any suggestions?

Is the jam nut on the set screw???

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Save Old Iron

Truckin88

just an example of the damage a loose set screw and jambnut can cause

Picture086.jpg

Picture089.jpg

key removed - edges of shaft were "mushroomed" out and filed down before I got a chance to take a picture of them - too bad - it was surprising on how much metal was displaced from the shaft

Picture087.jpg

compared to a good axle / keyway

Picture088.jpg

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truckin88

Truckin88

just an example of the damage a loose set screw and jambnut can cause

how did you go about fixing it???

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Save Old Iron

This is from a neighbor's C120 hydro tractor - but I'm guessing we start with 2 new hubs - then maybe an axle - but my neighbor does not want to tear apart the transmission to accomplish an axle replacement - he said they may try to buildup a weld inside the mushroomed keyway and re-cut the slot as best as they can with a dremel tool - guess I will leave this one open for suggestions before I make any further recommendations

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KyBlue

JB Weld might work... regular welding is gonna be hard on that axle seal..

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Rod(NASNUT)

My Charger 9 did that and I put in a new axle and hub :scratchead:

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Don1977

Nether axle looks good to me, that key has to fit tight. He's going to have the same thing on the other side.

He's going to have to take it apart to get it fixed right. Good used or new parts or have a machine shop fix his existing parts.

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bitten

truckin88

You might want to add another set screw at 90 degres from the origanal. Just drill and tap into the hub.

P.J.

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Save Old Iron

Any idea why the set screws would be oriented 90 degrees apart and not 180 degrees (opposite) from one another ??

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Sarge

Clocked at 90*, the set screws will lock the hub onto the shaft solidly. Clocking them at 180* will allow too much movement and start them wearing the key/set screws loose...

A lot of heavy equipment pulleys and shaft hubs are built the same way. The best setup I've seen for keyway hubs is one set screw dead opposite the keyway and an additional set screw 90* offset .

Sarge

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truckin88

finally got to this, removed, axel and hub looked close to new, nailed the axle with bearing grease. reinstalled everything, put some lock tite on the set screw, hopefully it doesn't loosen up

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bork

Are the set screws with the square end, hard or soft steel? Easy to break, if tightened too much? Or is that why there is a lock nut? snug n lock?

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pfrederi

One important point is the cup at the tip of the set screw...it should cut a nice ring in the key or the axle. If the cup shape is flattened out/worn away it will not work well. the lock nut keeps it tight....

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jpmcleod

I had the same problem with a Bronco 14. The hubs had only one set screw. Got a set with two screws and have had no problem. I have an extra set of two screw hubs if you want them. The fit a 1.1/8 axel. My e-mail address is jerry.pugh@fldfs.com.

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bork

If the cutting ring is worn off on end of the set screw/bolt. Is there an easy source for them (hardware) or must they be ordered with part #?

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pfrederi

If the cutting ring is worn off on end of the set screw/bolt. Is there an easy source for them (hardware) or must they be ordered with part #?

They are a standard Hardware item...depends on how goo your local hardware store is...else try Mcmasters or Fastanal

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KC9KAS

After you determine that the set screw is in good enough shape to use, or get a new one, use a little LOCTITE servicable, repeat SERVICABLE thread locker on the jam nut. This should help keep everything tightened up.

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Duff

use a little LOCTITE servicable, repeat SERVICABLE thread locker on the jam nut. This should help keep everything tightened up.

Just wanted to echo Ken's advice here - I made the mistake of using the permanent stuff on the bolts between my frame and tranny, and actually broke off a Grade 8 bolt trying to get it back out when I had to tear down the tranny. :notworthy:

Duff :thumbs:

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kevinbum17

Just wanted to echo Ken's advice here - I made the mistake of using the permanent stuff on the bolts between my frame and tranny, and actually broke off a Grade 8 bolt trying to get it back out when I had to tear down the tranny. :notworthy:

Duff :WRS:

:) that would suck! i will definately keep that in mind!!!! thanks! :thumbs:

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Polaris2007

Any idea why the set screws would be oriented 90 degrees apart and not 180 degrees (opposite) from one another ??

From an engineer's standpoint, the reason that you don't want the set screws 180 degrees apart is because if one comes loose, they both are then loose. Picture the situation in your head. You have two set screws, one on each side of the shaft, both pushing against each other, and essentially "centering" the shaft in the bore. Now, if either set screw loosens, the shaft moves toward the screw that loosened, and now the OTHER screw is loose too, because the shaft was allowed to move away from it. Two loose set screws= hub sliding on shaft. When clocked at 90 degrees, either screw can loosen, and you still can have the other screw remain tight. hope this helps......

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