Crank Pulley Removal/Engine Machine Shop Locations

[Krice58 181]

I’m sure this is on here somewhere just hoping for some tips. Trying to remove crankshaft pulley off a K341, took out the set screws and it won’t budge. What are we using to remove these? Jaw pullers? Gear pullers? PB Blaster and prayers? Also anyone have any suggestions for machine shops in the NE Ohio, W PA area, or  would any old machine shop that does small block chevys and fords be able to do a k series? Like to have this block honed, maybe bored, valve seats maybe and the crank looked at. Thanks in advance! 

[wallfish 20,592]

Spray spray spray remove the set screw and spray into that hole.

The pulleys are cast so they will break if you just start off with a puller and crank.

This may seem counterintuitive but knock it in towards the block. The idea is to get it to move which breaks that rust bond. Then try a puller BUT you need to get it to move back and forth a little bit at a time before pulling it all the way off the shaft. Yes tedious, but knock in, pull out, knock in, pull out and repeat. It should move more distance on the shaft each time and get more oil in there each time.  Try to spin it if you can as that will get more oil in there too. Clean the shaft off of any rust before beginning which will make it easier once it moves far enough out. 

That's my 

 

[ineedanother 2,864]

Penetrating oil. Give it some time, it shouldn't take too much. I've "lightly" tapped them in with a section of pipe over the shaft but put a flat pry bar behind first to retain that space between the pulley and block. It can tolerate light shocks to break the brown weld if there is any.

[Krice58 181]

Finally let loose. 

[squonk 48,119]

Can't believe no one mentioned a harmonic balancer puller! 

 

You're fortunate to get it off without damaging it. 

 

[ebinmaine 80,694]

41 minutes ago, squonk said:

harmonic balancer puller

 

I've used a good quality steering wheel puller too. 

 

 

10 hours ago, Krice58 said:

PB Blaster

 

Everyone has their favorites on penetrating oil but this product has been proven over and over to be inferior to pretty much everything else. 

 

 

[Krice58 181]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Can't believe no one mentioned a harmonic balancer puller! 

 

You're fortunate to get it off without damaging it. 

 

I have one of these that I use on the flywheels. Tried using it on this but I didn’t have long enough bolts on hand that fit. 

[oldlineman 1,809]

I like Kroil oil, a little pricy but you get what you pay for and don't over do it, what drops on the floor has no effect on what you are doing.

[Krice58 181]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I've used a good quality steering wheel puller too. 

 

 

 

Everyone has their favorites on penetrating oil but this product has been proven over and over to be inferior to pretty much everything else. 

 

 

I usually don’t use PB, just had a can laying around. What do you recommend? I’ve used Seafoam Deep Creep and some CRC stuff in the past that seemed to work well. I don’t have Kroil money. 

[Krice58 181]

Just now, oldlineman said:

I like Kroil oil, a little pricy but you get what you pay for and don't over do it, what drops on the floor has no effect on what you are doing.

I’ve only used Kroil a handful of times. Good stuff, just don’t do enough work to warrant the cost and I end of losing the can half the time. 

[squonk 48,119]

14 minutes ago, Krice58 said:

I have one of these that I use on the flywheels. Tried using it on this but I didn’t have long enough bolts on hand that fit. 

Longer bolts are easier and cheaper to get than another pulley

[sqrlgtr 3,925]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I've used a good quality steering wheel puller too. 

 

 

 

Everyone has their favorites on penetrating oil but this product has been proven over and over to be inferior to pretty much everything else. 

 

 

I would like to have the money Ive spent on inferior products because I couldn't find any Kroil local. I always have a can or two on hand now aerosol and liquid. I just order it off innerweb now when I start getting low.

[ebinmaine 80,694]

2 hours ago, Krice58 said:

I usually don’t use PB, just had a can laying around. What do you recommend? I’ve used Seafoam Deep Creep and some CRC stuff in the past that seemed to work well. I don’t have Kroil money. 

 

1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said:

I would like to have the money Ive spent on inferior products because I couldn't find any Kroil local. I always have a can or two on hand now aerosol and liquid. I just order it off innerweb now when I start getting low.

 

 

I love Kroil but refuse to buy it because of the local availability and inflated price. 

 

I've tried many. The two that seem to work best for me are:

good old fashioned original formula Liquid Wrench 

and the WD-40 Specialist Penetrating Oil. 

 

Note that is NOT the standard WD40 Traditional Formula which is NOT a penetrating oil. 

 

 

I've been meaning to try a 50/50 of ATF & acetone but keep forgetting.  

 

 

[Handy Don 17,474]

I am satisfied with Liquid Wrench and smile that it constantly seeps out of the little dispenser bottles I decant the big bottle into. Just doin’ its job, right!?

[Krice58 181]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Longer bolts are easier and cheaper to get than another pulley

 

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Longer bolts are easier and cheaper to get than another pulley

Definitely gonna get some for next time. 

[Krice58 181]

I just realized this pulley is smaller in diameter than my original. Both K341 71128 but mine is off an auto and the other engine is off an 8 speed. Looks like the part number I need is 7443 and I got the 7466. Anyone got a 7443 they’d be willing to part with? Looks like diameter of the one I need is 5 1/4. I guess the autos have the bigger pulley? The 8 speed one is like 4 inches. 

[stevasaurus 23,856]

I'm a believer with the ATF & Acetone.  Works great. 

[oldlineman 1,809]

I agree, I have used this mix over some years and it seems to work, it will separate over time but just needs a good shake to get it back together. 

[Racinbob 13,187]

I'm not really 'sold' on anything and experiment with various products. This stuff here seems to work quite well but it's kinda pricy. I'd rather apply it to just the area needed so I released the pressure and poured it in a squirt bottle.

 

 

 

[953 nut 69,283]

I probably have a half dozen "metrical cure" penetrants on the shelf that have been recommended as being THE BEST EVER on here and I always go back to Liquid Wrench, it works,         

[Krice58 181]

Still have to clean these up. But I think I have two useable blocks. Just gotta find a machine shop. Should I just leave the valve guides alone? 

Edited August 23 by Krice58

[Retired Wrencher 6,986]

On 8/20/2026 at 9:04 PM, Krice58 said:

I’m sure this is on here somewhere just hoping for some tips. Trying to remove crankshaft pulley off a K341, took out the set screws and it won’t budge. What are we using to remove these? Jaw pullers? Gear pullers? PB Blaster and prayers? Also anyone have any suggestions for machine shops in the NE Ohio, W PA area, or  would any old machine shop that does small block chevys and fords be able to do a k series? Like to have this block honed, maybe bored, valve seats maybe and the crank looked at. Thanks in advance! 

Well guys you were taking pullers for the crank side. I made this one from an existing puller  that I had it is really bent one time when I was trying to get a drive hub off. The seal was leaking bad. It actually broke the snap ring inside the transmission. They had to recut the grove for a new snap ring. So now I use it to remove the crank pulley. It works every time rusted crusted doesn’t matter. It pulls it off so easy. This is a heavy duty puller from a set that I have. I’ve seen some engines were badly rusted caked with whatever I thought I’d never get it off, but I hooked it up sprayed it down. Came off like butter. Just sharing my two cents..

Edited August 24 by Retired Wrencher