BPEisenhower 639 #1 Posted August 9 Another day another adventure Horse fans. Since it's raining I laid out some of the paperwork I got with this machine and am glad I did. Nice to see someone keeping everything in folders showing it was like a member of the family. I left the name visible on the sales receipt in case people knew who they are in case someone wondered where this Horse is being stabled. Half tempted to search for a replacement wiring harness or make new connections with a trailer plug in or new Deutsch plugs... But, here's what I have so far..😉 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 11,415 #2 Posted August 9 That is a really good price for a 1995 WH 520-H $ 3700 not including deck cost. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BPEisenhower 639 #3 Posted August 9 I know that price these days don't get much of a piece of equipment. Hopefully, I can figure out the wiring problem and use it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,929 #5 Posted August 9 58 minutes ago, BPEisenhower said: I know that price these days don't get much of a piece of equipment. Hopefully, I can figure out the wiring problem and use it I "kinda" went through some of the wiring on one of my 520H's a little while back and corrosion at some of the connections was all I really found that was in bad shape. the 9 pin connector still appeared to be in pretty decent shape on mine, but someone had already taken the charging circuit out of the 9 pin and ran it like the earlier 520's where wired, which may be why 9 pin was still in good shape. I got lucky and everything electrical works as it should but did have to replace voltage regulator because it wasn't charging. I did have to change the vacuum gauge on mine but that has nothing to do with the electrics. I really like that big Onan humm and the 520's have become one of my favorites. I believe you will like the tractor after working out a few of the bugs. Pic of mine for inspiration 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BPEisenhower 639 #6 Posted August 9 The 9 pin connector is melted on one terminal and was connected with a spade connector that is completely burnt. There's an extra toggle switch that was wired in an unknown circuit and four wires cut but marine type fuse holders poorly installed. I plan on soldering and heat shrinking to remedy situation. From what I gathered,it's 3 relays, ignition switch, 2 blade fuses, seat switch, PTO switch, low oil sensor, neutral safety, parking brake and air cleaner restriction light. All the red lights work but the volt meter, fuel gauge are not. Tach is gone but vacuum gauge is there. When I turn the key to start, I hear a relay clicking but no other noises. The main fuse has been hacked and wire nuts used to a burnt white wire..... Don't know if I should locate a harness or purchase a name brand multimeter. It's definitely worth saving and will be a rough start to a good tractor. You got a sharp looking machine and hopefully, this might polish!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,929 #7 Posted August 10 6 hours ago, BPEisenhower said: You got a sharp looking machine Its pretty straight but has some surface rust and faded paint. I am wanting to do a resto on it one of these days though. 6 hours ago, BPEisenhower said: Don't know if I should locate a harness or purchase a name brand multimeter. It's definitely worth saving and will be a rough start to a good tractor. Maybe one of the vendors on here has a decent used one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,772 #8 Posted August 13 I took two wires out of the 9 pin when I got my 520-H. The power wire and the start wire soldered each together. I also replaced all the safety switches as they were all rusted. My 520 had set in a car port or open sided shed as the right side wheels had some surface rust and none on the left. I bought some new connectors but haven't installed them. The two PTO safety switches were badly rusted they also have isolation plates below them that were coated in rust. After getting all that sorted out the biggest improvement I made was an electric fuel pump. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,929 #9 Posted August 13 12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: After getting all that sorted out the biggest improvement I made was an electric fuel pump. I will second the electric fuel pump, let pump run for a second or two hit the starter and almost an instant start. The mechanical pump I replaced would squirt fuel across shop but must have lost its prime after setting any length of time because you would have to crank for ever to get her to fire. I know a lot of guys have used primer bulbs like you would use on boats but figured it wasnt to much more trouble to install Epump and not much cheaper if you get a good quality primer bulb. pic of where I mounted mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 69,296 #10 Posted August 14 On 8/9/2026 at 7:02 PM, BPEisenhower said: The 9 pin connector is melted on one terminal and was connected with a spade connector that is completely burnt. There's an extra toggle switch that was wired in an unknown circuit and four wires cut but marine type fuse holders poorly installed. I plan on soldering and heat shrinking to remedy situation. From what I gathered,it's 3 relays, ignition switch, 2 blade fuses, seat switch, PTO switch, low oil sensor, neutral safety, parking brake and air cleaner restriction light. All the red lights work but the volt meter, fuel gauge are not. Tach is gone but vacuum gauge is there. When I turn the key to start, I hear a relay clicking but no other noises. The main fuse has been hacked and wire nuts used to a burnt white wire..... Don't know if I should locate a harness or purchase a name brand multimeter. It's definitely worth saving and will be a rough start to a good tractor. You got a sharp looking machine and hopefully, this might polish!!! In my opinion you will be best off making good solid soldered electrical connections. The nine pin connectors have been a problem for lots of people, eliminate it. Clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds before beginning. Be sure the transmission is in neutral, block the wheels, and pull the spark plug wires to prevent an accidental engine start-up. You can test the components of the starting system with a small jumper cable. Starting at the solenoid, attach the jumper to the small light blue wire and momentarily touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal to see if the solenoid closes and the starter turns over. If the solenoid closed then move back to the other end of the light blue wire and you will find the start relay. Connect the jumper wire to the dark blue wire on the start relay and momentarily touch the jumper to the battery "+" terminal, if the starter turned over repeat the process at the tan wire on the switching relay being sure that the PTO is disengaged, transmission is in neutral and some weight is on the seat and the key is in the on positioin. If at any point in the process you don't get the desires result you now know where to start looking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
