Wheel Horse D series rear lift cylinder issues

[tractorhogg 656]

Is this the correct section to post my question about the rear lift cylinder on my D200 or does it need to be in implements and attachments? 

 

Edited Monday at 10:43 PM by tractorhogg

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 12,346]

I think flipping the link may work

 

[pfrederi 20,866]

The plate isn't a stop it ties the two side pieces together for strength. It may be reversible but it is on there correctly now.  Your fitting seems to stick out a bit further than the original as on my D200.

[Handy Don 16,941]

4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

...your fitting seems to stick out a bit further than the original....

I agree that the swivel fitting looks to protrude too far from the body of the cylinder--likely not an original. (I added a D rear cylinder for a separate circuit on a 500 series--quite strong, they are!)

[tractorhogg 656]

4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

The plate isn't a stop it ties the two side pieces together for strength. It may be reversible but it is on there correctly now.  Your fitting seems to stick out a bit further than the original as on my D200.

I wondered whether or not it was a OEM hose, but it wouldn't matter if it was smaller connector the bracket would still hit it. I may try flipping it as QWest said. I wonder if the original hose would be available somewhere? Thanks

[tractorhogg 656]

11 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

I think flipping the link may work

 

I'll try that, thanks

[tractorhogg 656]

Flipping the bracket didn't work and turning it around won't either. Even if I cut it off and moved it up the sides of the bracket would hit the union. I'd say its definitely the wrong hose, but I did wonder if this was supposed to be a shorter cylinder, but that doesn't seem right. I adjust the lift arms up and down and doing that did not matter in the way the bracket it the union. There is another set of holes below where the lift arms are now I wonder if that would make a difference if I mounted the lift arms further down.

[pfrederi 20,866]

I can't get a decent picture of mine between the gas tank and easy ride seat.  Tomorrow i will take the FEL counter weights off so i can move the 3 pt up and down and see how close it gets.

[tractorhogg 656]

5 hours ago, pfrederi said:

I can't get a decent picture of mine between the gas tank and easy ride seat.  Tomorrow i will take the FEL counter weights off so i can move the 3 pt up and down and see how close it gets.

Here is a picture Bob ranger sent me and a picture of mine, see how much further his rood goes in and the angle of the bracket, our unions are not that different to explain the differences.

[Handy Don 16,941]

Wow. Time to start measuring stuff like the cylinders’ extended/retracted lengths at the attachment points, etc. From the photos, it seems like Paul & Bob’s are shorter cylinders or anchored farther back. 

[tractorhogg 656]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Wow. Time to start measuring stuff like the cylinders’ extended/retracted lengths at the attachment points, etc. From the photos, it seems like Paul & Bob’s are shorter cylinders or anchored farther back. 

That's what it looks like to me

[pfrederi 20,866]

Ok couple thoughts.  There is very little clearance even with original coupling.  Also my hose comes straight up and is held by a fabric strap to the right side of the frame.

[pfrederi 20,866]

4 minutes ago, tractorhogg said:

That's what it looks like to me

 I think it is the coupling and the routing of the hose.

[tractorhogg 656]

3 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 I think it is the coupling and the routing of the hose.

That's what I thought too, but a couple things made me wonder, first my rod seems to extend much longer that Bobs, and second, even if I had a OEM coupling I don't believe my bracket would not still hit, but I'm not sure. I'll try to find it the thread, about 2018 there was this exact  same issue posted here and in that case a used OEM hose did solve the problem so maybe that could be the answer. If the GT14 hoses would work I know where to get those.