AHS 1,695 #1 Posted Saturday at 03:39 PM Hello guys! Maybe it was from me, I don’t think so?? I’m 220 lbs on a bad day! The pictures are of my (new to me) 312-8. My 312 and 314 have nothing on there, the metal has just fallen off. I haven’t tore into it yet. What do you do to make it sturdy, so that it wont happen again? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,459 #2 Posted Saturday at 04:36 PM I did a repair to the tail of the C81 hoodstand and posted the repair on the forum. I actually used 2 hoodstands, as one had a good left side, the right half of the other was cracked but not broken off. Made up 2 lower patches of 1/8 x 1-1/2 angle iron and welded them in. 5 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,228 #3 Posted Saturday at 04:39 PM Not just you. Common problem with this series tractor, have seen several 300 series broke here. I have repaired 2 that I have by welding metal under broke piece, seem to be working fine. I can't seem to find pic of repair but here it is before fix. Not a biggie but I always try and check this area when looking at a tractor I'm interested in and makes for sumin to show seller and may take some off price. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,891 #4 Posted Saturday at 05:36 PM The 520HC and later models of the 520H had bumped up console plate with an extended plate that allowed the rear console screws to help with the seat load. After welding and reinforcing the broken area, you might want to look into spacing the console cover up and utilizing the holes mentioned. Part #1 is extended and part #6 is bumped up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,228 #5 Posted Saturday at 06:14 PM 36 minutes ago, lynnmor said: The 520HC and later models of the 520H had bumped up console plate with an extended plate that allowed the rear console screws to help with the seat load. After welding and reinforcing the broken area, you might want to look into spacing the console cover up and utilizing the holes mentioned. Part #1 is extended and part #6 is bumped up. This and the F plate are big improvements that were made on the later 520's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,459 #6 Posted Saturday at 07:30 PM 1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said: This and the F plate are big improvements that were made on the later 520's The "F" plate is always a concern when looking to purchase a new-to-me used WH. Usually never a show stopping deal breaker, but needs to be factored into the purchase price if it requires repair... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,695 #7 Posted Saturday at 08:57 PM 2 hours ago, sqrlgtr said: This and the F plate are big improvements that were made on the later 520's Hold on, what’s the F plate? So part 1 was available on the newer 520s? I’m confused what part 6 is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,989 #8 Posted Saturday at 09:04 PM The F plate refers to the part of the frame that bolts to the transmission. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,459 #9 Posted Saturday at 09:13 PM (edited) 9 minutes ago, Bill D said: The F plate refers to the part of the frame that bolts to the transmission. The one that frequently developes cracks that like to play connect the dots. Like this sad 854 frame... Years of plowing or tilling flexing that mount until it developes fatigue cracks. Fixable, but time consuming... Edited Saturday at 09:15 PM by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,228 #10 Posted Saturday at 09:50 PM Pic above also happens a lot on these machines and is not model specific. @ri702bill great example of cracked F plate. @AHS sorry for confusion, I should have made myself clearer. When you go to stop and fills like your front end keeps a going and your butt is sitting still might be the F plate . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,459 #11 Posted Saturday at 10:14 PM Notice on my damaged frane that only ONE of the four mounting holes is not cracked. That tractor moved like an inchworm under power! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,228 #12 Posted Saturday at 10:18 PM 1 minute ago, ri702bill said: Notice on my damaged frane that only ONE of the four mounting holes is not cracked. That tractor moved like an inchworm under power! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,891 #13 Posted Saturday at 11:43 PM 2 hours ago, AHS said: Hold on, what’s the F plate? So part 1 was available on the newer 520s? I’m confused what part 6 is. Part 1 & part 6 go together. Part 1 is where the gas tank ears poke thru. Part 6 is the console plate, note that it has a step in it to allow for the longer part 1. The older part 1's were shorter and had no place for the part 4 screws. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 1,096 #14 Posted yesterday at 04:42 AM hi AHS, very common problem with the 300, 400 and some 500 series wh tractors. i used to use 1/8 X 1.5" angle iron like ri702bill suggested. now i buy a kit from brockport bill. bolts right on. easy- peasy. also ri702bill makes a nice kit to reinforce the 'F' plate. both kits are well worth the $$$ imo. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,695 #15 Posted yesterday at 11:25 AM @ri702bill what do you have? Im intrigued!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,459 #16 Posted yesterday at 11:44 AM As @mrc mentioned, I fabricate a reinforcing kit for both the short and long frame tractors. Similar in design, different fit for the specific model. I only sell items based on designs that I have used myself on my tractors over the years with no issues... Please PM me for pictures & details. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 2,852 #17 Posted 20 hours ago On 7/18/2026 at 12:39 PM, sqrlgtr said: Not just you. Common problem with this series tractor, have seen several 300 series broke here. I have repaired 2 that I have by welding metal under broke piece, seem to be working fine. I can't seem to find pic of repair but here it is before fix. Not a biggie but I always try and check this area when looking at a tractor I'm interested in and makes for sumin to show seller and may take some off price. The C series does it too. When I was building the C-141 Auto and had the back fenders off it had the same problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 7,705 #18 Posted 19 hours ago (edited) I had one broken off and the other cracked on my 312-8. I use 1/8" x 1 1/2" steel on top under the shifter plate. It's not welded, just bolted in place with the shifter plate. It's been that way since 2015. I did raise the rear fende, btacket and gas tank 1 3/4" for some 25 " tires. The plastic pipe has the wench wires that connect to the battery. Edited 19 hours ago by Lee1977 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 3,228 #19 Posted 12 hours ago 7 hours ago, Lee1977 said: The plastic pipe has the wench wires that connect to the battery. My OCD would make me swap that white PEX to the red hot PEX. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites