1975 Pug 4x4 by Bruce Mfg

[dodge78 129]

I bought a 1975 Pug 4x4 made by Bruce Mfg in Bruce, Wi a couple of years ago. It is articulated and twists in the middle. I have been working on it a little at a time.

[dodge78 129]

The serial number is 2615-160 which is day/yr - hp, 261 day of 1975 with 16 hp Tecumseh engine.

The number is on top of the front frame on the right side (passenger) rear corner.

[dodge78 129]

There a rumors of part list some where on the internet, but I could not find any. Since it sorta ran but did not stop. It has drum brakes in the front axel only. I started with the master cylinder. It would compress but not release. So I took the Wagner number and traced it back to 1948-57 hudson, Packards, 1079-84 Hyster and more. Off to eBay to get a reasonably priced one. After bleeding the system, I took the drums off to free up the adjusters. The shoes were worn down and the Wagner numbers led to s154 from 1949-72 Fords, Mercury's, Dodges, Plymouths.

[dodge78 129]

Of course that led to finding leaking cylinders. LH-FD18292 for the left side and a FD18293 for the right. These fit 1960-70s CJ, 1957-73 Dodge trucks some AMC cars and others. Some where for the front, others for the rear.Some rears take a different brake line size and need an adapter to work with lines that are in the Pug. I had to get my adaptor at Autozone as they had the longest one to reach the bottom. I left the parking brake parts out as there is a drive shaft brake.

[dodge78 129]

This Pug is supposed to be able to reach 25 mph but only reaches 8 mph, I will cover that later, it was a hand full at 8 mph. I pulled the front fiberglass off. A nice bit of reengineering. The steering gear no longer has bearings on the input shaft (which was cut and rewelding crooked) . There is a brass bushing put in the top and a chunk of steel for the lower bearing. The steering wheel and shaft are too low to get a leg under making to difficult to get in and out of. I am thinking the pitman arm got changed because it is 18 ft between inside tire tracks when driven in circles. I read somewhere (of course I can not find it now) that the radius is supposed to be 10 ft.

[dodge78 129]

The steering box I have been able to id yet, the casting number does not help id it. I know it is 6 turns lock to lock,  3 bolts holding it down. It has been about 10 years since I have gone to a salvage yard and I am finding there are maybe 2 or 3 left and those seldom have anything older that 2000 in them.

[dodge78 129]

The tie rod ends have 173r or 173l on them. Most common on 1940-1962 Chevrolets like the Corvette and Belair. The rod go from the pitman arm to an arm under the seat (that swivels at the top) then the second arm goes to the back.  Between the tie rods and tightening the gear, I might be able to get to 25 mph.

[dodge78 129]

I will add more later.

[ri702bill 12,319]

Interresting assortment of off the shelf period correct parts there. Reminds me of the Checker Marathon cabs....

Drive shaft parking brake - not worth squat when the rear U-joint breaks!!

[SylvanLakeWH 31,621]

Very cool vehicle!!! 

 

[Achto 31,999]

Will be following along on this one.

[Pullstart 70,235]

Very cool investigating!  Fun project!

[OoPEZoO 600]

Fun project….thanks for posting it up 

[WHX?? 57,103]

Every once in awhile I'll see them out on the ice. Some where in here I have pics of a nice one I'll have to look for. 

Edited 15 hours ago by WHX??

[oliver2-44 11,580]

10 hours ago, dodge78 said:

The steering box I have been able to id yet, the casting number does not help id it. I know it is 6 turns lock to lock,  3 bolts holding it down. It has been about 10 years since I have gone to a salvage yard and I am finding there are maybe 2 or 3 left and those seldom have anything older that 2000 in them.

Post a picture of the steering box on ChatGPT or Gemmni and see if AI can identify it.  Also ask AI to search for a parts list/ manual for you. 
 

Edited 13 hours ago by oliver2-44

[ebinmaine 79,315]

Very interesting project! 

[Bill D 2,953]

19 hours ago, dodge78 said:

This Pug is supposed to be able to reach 25 mph but only reaches 8 mph, I will cover that later, it was a hand full at 8 mph. I pulled the front fiberglass off. A nice bit of reengineering. The steering gear no longer has bearings on the input shaft (which was cut and rewelding crooked) . There is a brass bushing put in the top and a chunk of steel for the lower bearing. The steering wheel and shaft are too low to get a leg under making to difficult to get in and out of. I am thinking the pitman arm got changed because it is 18 ft between inside tire tracks when driven in circles. I read somewhere (of course I can not find it now) that the radius is supposed to be 10 ft.

That's a Saginaw steering box.  That S is the mfg mark.  I found pictures on Google. 

Edited 4 hours ago by Bill D

[dodge78 129]

1 hour ago, Bill D said:

That's a Saginaw steering box.  That S is the mfg mark.  I found pictures on Google. 

Yes, a Saginaw 525 series. I am trying not to spend $300-400 on this yet. I have the axels and a couple of other things to go through first.

[dodge78 129]

18 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Interresting assortment of off the shelf period correct parts there. Reminds me of the Checker Marathon cabs....

Drive shaft parking brake - not worth squat when the rear U-joint breaks!!

On the front axel ok?

[dodge78 129]

Here is the steering system. In the second picture the tie rod comes from the front through the hole in the middle of the picture, goes to the lever which swivels at the top of the picture then heads toward the on the bottom tie rod. The third picture shows the rear tie rod attach point, also the articulation "hinge". The last picture shows the rear tie rod and the swivel.

[dodge78 129]

It has a Salisbury torque converter on it. I pulled the part off the engine for a clean and lube.

[dodge78 129]

Here is the main part of the speed problem. The throttle cable is on the bottom, goes to the black spring which goes to the governor arm which goes to the throttle plate. You push on the gas pedal and it is 2/3 of the way before the throttle moves. Top rpm is around 2300, idle is 1400 rpm. I pulled the spring and put stiff wire in, that livened things up. 4200 rpm and no governor at half throttle pedal. That got me to about 20 mph. Looks like a shorter spring might work.