520h PTO clutch in bad shape

[eric8 7]

Decided to take a look at the PTO pulley today and discovered there was no friction material visible when viewing the air gap between the pulley and clutch disc.  Pulled it off, and sure enough, I was right.  She’s toast.  Couple of questions:

1.  Part # 40 in the diagram, identified as the bearing race, will not slide off of the engine shaft.  It appears fused on and won’t budge.  Is this normal?

2.  Part # 39 is supposed to be a bearing seal.  Is it installed currently?  I’m not seeing any kind of lip that a traditional bearing seal would have.

[pfrederi 20,740]

You have to remove the 4 bolts and  2 small plates then number 40 will come off

 

To me looks like seal 39 is there the rubber part may be worn away

[kpinnc 18,600]

3 hours ago, eric8 said:

She’s toast.

 

Nah, but she's definitely been used beyond the wear limit of clutch material. 

 

I would say a new clutch plate is a good idea (not that it can't be fixed), and that PTO bell needs about 5 minutes in a lathe as a minimum. 

 

But just FYI- that style PTO was used on the majority of machines from the early 1980s onward. Finding a decent replacement won't be hard. 

[squonk 47,002]

Call this guy for parts if you need them. Top quality

 

[WHX?? 57,020]

Eric

I believe Lowell https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/ has replacement parts as well. 

 

Those are totally rebuildable and many threads here on doing it including replacing the clutch lining. 

Edited 7 hours ago by WHX??

[eric8 7]

7 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Nah, but she's definitely been used beyond the wear limit of clutch material. 

 

I would say a new clutch plate is a good idea (not that it can't be fixed), and that PTO bell needs about 5 minutes in a lathe as a minimum. 

 

But just FYI- that style PTO was used on the majority of machines from the early 1980s onward. Finding a decent replacement won't be hard. 

 

I just ordered an NOS pulley/bell because of how badly grooved that one was.  Are you aware of if the two bearings come out easily after the C-clips are removed?  Any special tools or bearing pullers needed?  I'm going to need to transfer all the guts over to the new bell.  

[kpinnc 18,600]

18 minutes ago, eric8 said:

Are you aware of if the two bearings come out easily after the C-clips are removed?  Any special tools or bearing pullers needed?

 

Not sure I'd call it easy, but it also isn't terrible. 

 

Remove the smaller one first. Actually the smaller one is a good one to replace while you are taking the whole thing apart. The large bearing (if you remove it without damage) can be repacked and reused. Since the smaller bearing is sealed, it's good to replace it. 

 

Special tools- snap ring pliers (required) and a bearing press (good idea but not absolutely necessary). Removing the large bearing without damage will be tough without a press but it can be done. 

[peter lena 9,910]

@eric8   question , how easily  does  the mule drive belt move the  deck BY HAND ? all   my units easily do that , another thing , that needle bearing  is known for  hi temp stress , lubrication failure  . every related , bearing  I have , is  lucas , xtra  HD  green chassis grease , 550 deg  flash point , also polyurea rated , anti sling , all my spindle bearings , were cleaned out and  regreased , mule drive , very light  ammount on / in that  pto needle bearing . also  detailed in my  pto  lever start set up .  BTW have never  burned up a disc . bet that entire set up is COLLECTIVE ROTATIONAL DRAG , thats what is eating  up your stuff . pete

[eric8 7]

Thank you kpinnc and Peter for the tips.  I will take a look at all pulleys, the hydro/deck belts, and the mule drive while I have it all apart.