Jump to content
rmaynard

Drive Belt Wear on my Commando 8

Recommended Posts

rmaynard

I am getting the Commando ready for the show and remembered that the last time I had it out, there was slapping noise in the drive belt/cover area. Everything works correctly, clutching is fine. So removal of the belt cover revealed this.

 

cover_dust.jpg.8ca1aee6041fa836f89f212738ab5089.jpg

 

The powder is from the belt. The small wear mark is from the guide hitting the top of the belt guard. The two parallel arced scratches are from the wrong bold being used when I assembled the idler originally. It has since been replaced with the correct bolt.

 

This is the idler pulley arm and guide. Belt shows wear on top.

 

343227442_worn_beltguide.jpg.289613741d585e9452882ca0a7185196.jpg

 

When assembled, the belt is constantly rubbing on the guide.

1252498726_rubbingguide.jpg.76c58ae851b40c0f14493f10f89d7bfb.jpg

 

When disengaged, no contact.

 

1913243031_beltdisengaged.jpg.bd94c6b46aebc410be2da482d55bd343.jpg

 

With the old belt on, the height of the belt/pulley is 19-5/16" from the floor.

 

1411623608_oldbeltheight.jpg.90be13bb713a8371237f03e37bf947ad.jpg

 

With the new belt, the height of the belt is 19-5/16", showing that 1/6" of the top of the belt has worn off.

806710430_newbeltheight.jpg.998bc0aff46601a95f41a71cdd074d1e.jpg

 

My first thought is that the guide on the idler pulley should be trimmed, smoothed, and reshapened. 

Then I should use a new belt that is fractionally shorter to keep the idler guide from hitting against the underside of the belt cover.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

I'm assuming you're using a  1/2" X 70" belt? I certainly would get that guide off the belt when running. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

If I recall correctly, the belt stop is just squeezed between the bacl of the pulley inner racr and the bracket. Loosen the bolt, move the stop  clockwise about 90 degrees to stop on the other end of the tab....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard
3 hours ago, ri702bill said:

If I recall correctly, the belt stop is just squeezed between the bacl of the pulley inner racr and the bracket. Loosen the bolt, move the stop  clockwise about 90 degrees to stop on the other end of the tab....

It's welded. So is the one on my 857.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Mike'sHorseBarn

I'm having the same exact issue with my 867 that I can't seem to get straightened out. I'm following along to see what you guys come up with!

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

How much play is there where the clutch shaft goes thru the frame? That is a metal-on-metal area with no easy access to lube it. It may be worn - both the shaft & frame, allowing the shaft to droop. It may be time to add bushings to restore the original geometry.

Edited by ri702bill
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard
1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

How much play is there where the clutch shaft goes thru the frame? .

I will take a look at that area.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

@ri702bill

I took a close look at that area. At the most there maybe 1/32" of up/down movement. I compared it to the 857 and it was the same. 

That guide is only there to keep the belt from jumping off the idler when the clutch is depressed and the belt slacks. I think I will try a little modification to what's there before doing anything major. 

But thanks for the idea Bill

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Does anyone know when Wheel Horse went from the stationary guide to the adjustable guide? I'm sure that if I look at enough parts manuals I can find the answer. And when they did go to the adjustable guide, was it for this reason? Inquiring minds need to know. :confusion-confused:

 

EDIT:

I grabbed the parts manual for Mr. Bone's tractor (72 Raider 10) and it appears to have an adjustable guide. I think Mr. Bone's is going to have some surgery today. 

bonestractor.jpg.431c5a74e0b242e72ff1de0222c9ec30.jpg

 

Will update later.

Edited by rmaynard
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Mr. Bones said he would be happy to donate, but his drive system uses a 5/8" belt and pulleys. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Problem solved.

I replaced the belt with a NOS 9691 (1/2 X 70).

I trimmed the guide

IMG_20260617_114205712.jpg.63c97d2291b6e01a303758844ab6dd8d.jpg

and reshaped it so there is about a 1/16" gap when the belt is engaged.

IMG_20260617_114240945_HDR.jpg.8990dddb99ecedbd0496a79b9cd963b5.jpg

When the belt is disengaged, the guide is still low enough to keep the belt from coming out of the idler.

And back to the original issue, there is no belt slapping or any other noise emanating from the belt cover area.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

I've just bent those guides before. You may need just a tick more clearance once the belt wears in. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
4 hours ago, rmaynard said:

Problem solved.

 

By golly that'll do it! :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard
3 hours ago, squonk said:

I've just bent those guides before. You may need just a tick more clearance once the belt wears in. 

Thanks Mike, I did a little shaping after this picture was taken.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...