rmaynard 17,231 #1 Posted 17 hours ago I am getting the Commando ready for the show and remembered that the last time I had it out, there was slapping noise in the drive belt/cover area. Everything works correctly, clutching is fine. So removal of the belt cover revealed this. The powder is from the belt. The small wear mark is from the guide hitting the top of the belt guard. The two parallel arced scratches are from the wrong bold being used when I assembled the idler originally. It has since been replaced with the correct bolt. This is the idler pulley arm and guide. Belt shows wear on top. When assembled, the belt is constantly rubbing on the guide. When disengaged, no contact. With the old belt on, the height of the belt/pulley is 19-5/16" from the floor. With the new belt, the height of the belt is 19-5/16", showing that 1/6" of the top of the belt has worn off. My first thought is that the guide on the idler pulley should be trimmed, smoothed, and reshapened. Then I should use a new belt that is fractionally shorter to keep the idler guide from hitting against the underside of the belt cover. Thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 46,889 #2 Posted 16 hours ago I'm assuming you're using a 1/2" X 70" belt? I certainly would get that guide off the belt when running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,248 #3 Posted 15 hours ago If I recall correctly, the belt stop is just squeezed between the bacl of the pulley inner racr and the bracket. Loosen the bolt, move the stop clockwise about 90 degrees to stop on the other end of the tab.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,231 #4 Posted 11 hours ago 3 hours ago, ri702bill said: If I recall correctly, the belt stop is just squeezed between the bacl of the pulley inner racr and the bracket. Loosen the bolt, move the stop clockwise about 90 degrees to stop on the other end of the tab.... It's welded. So is the one on my 857. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike'sHorseBarn 3,562 #5 Posted 10 hours ago I'm having the same exact issue with my 867 that I can't seem to get straightened out. I'm following along to see what you guys come up with! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 12,248 #6 Posted 3 hours ago (edited) How much play is there where the clutch shaft goes thru the frame? That is a metal-on-metal area with no easy access to lube it. It may be worn - both the shaft & frame, allowing the shaft to droop. It may be time to add bushings to restore the original geometry. Edited 2 hours ago by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,231 #7 Posted 2 hours ago 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: How much play is there where the clutch shaft goes thru the frame? . I will take a look at that area. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,231 #8 Posted 39 minutes ago @ri702bill I took a close look at that area. At the most there maybe 1/32" of up/down movement. I compared it to the 857 and it was the same. That guide is only there to keep the belt from jumping off the idler when the clutch is depressed and the belt slacks. I think I will try a little modification to what's there before doing anything major. But thanks for the idea Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 17,231 #9 Posted 23 minutes ago (edited) Does anyone know when Wheel Horse went from the stationary guide to the adjustable guide? I'm sure that if I look at enough parts manuals I can find the answer. And when they did go to the adjustable guide, was it for this reason? Inquiring minds need to know. EDIT: I grabbed the parts manual for Mr. Bone's tractor (72 Raider 10) and it appears to have an adjustable guide. I think Mr. Bone is going to have some surgery today. Will update later. Edited 1 minute ago by rmaynard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites