Retired Wrencher 6,793 #26 Posted May 31 1 minute ago, JoeM said: I like these especially when the machine is not completely wired. The manual override switch is nice. A little pricey tho That is about what I paid a Nappa with all my discounts. I am trying to keep original lock. It needs a lot of work but I have the rest of the year and all winter to get it done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,793 #27 Posted May 31 7 hours ago, John2189 said: About the ID tag, some times when they are hard to read, take a lead pencil and rub the numbers then lightly rub it off. The lead will fill the numbers and make it easier to see. Thanks John I will have to remember that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 79,718 #28 Posted May 31 9 minutes ago, JoeM said: manual override switch is nice. That's neat! Never seen one. 9 minutes ago, JoeM said: A little pricey tho Ain't bad. I've been buying NOS Cole Hersee solenoids for years. Around the same... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 47,419 #29 Posted May 31 You'd be surprised how many different solenoid variance there are. Not only appearance and terminals, but what the winding is made out of and what the contacts are. Most are copper or brass but you get into nickel and silver too. It all depends on what the job the solenoid has to to. Most "good" plow solenoids are "continuous duty " and are built to carry amperage for several seconds over and over. Starter solenoids aren't designed for that. They will operate a plow or actuator but will have a short life. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,793 #30 Posted June 1 14 hours ago, squonk said: You'd be surprised how many different solenoid variance there are. Not only appearance and terminals, but what the winding is made out of and what the contacts are. Most are copper or brass but you get into nickel and silver too. It all depends on what the job the solenoid has to to. Most "good" plow solenoids are "continuous duty " and are built to carry amperage for several seconds over and over. Starter solenoids aren't designed for that. They will operate a plow or actuator but will have a short life. Well Mike I ran into my old buddy at Napa. He is the nicest guy. He must of sent at 30 minutes, talking with me and trying to save me every dollar I could. Asking me a lot of questions to save a buck. I actually forgot that I set up an account through them. I must’ve saved myself almost $10. I’ve always trust in Napa to be true quality. But the stores in bad spot lots of traffic big mall close by there early enough. Thanks for helping me. It’s like I always said wiring is not my thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,793 #31 Posted June 1 Ok the day started out good . I wanted to change the tranny fluid so I ran the engine for 20 minutes with their rear jacked up off the ground spitting the wheels so I could get the fluid nice and hot as an easy drain. So I was done with that. I put some kerosene inside the transmission like I usually do to clean the inside. So when I attempted to start the engine this happened. Which was the same problem I had yesterday before I bought a new solenoid. Kind of scratching my head. Any info is much appreciated. And I followed the diagram for the wiring hook up so I know I’m good there. Thanks in advance. IMG_1190.mov Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,874 #32 Posted June 1 If you jump from the solenoid terminal with two wires to the starter does it crank (Use a heavy cable like jumper cables) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 47,419 #33 Posted June 1 I'm thikin bad spot in starter or bad connections including grounds. Gary call me 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,793 #34 Posted June 1 3 hours ago, squonk said: I'm thikin bad spot in starter or bad connections including grounds. Gary call me Ok I will around 9 or 10 am ok. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
