Lights....???

[Crow Horse 8]

I'm interested in installing lights on my B-80. The WH swap in lights that use small incandescent bulbs seem like they would only be token at best (maybe I'm wrong). What lights would actually fit AND be effective ? I understand I only have a 15 amp charging system so amp draw is critical and restricting. Any thoughts on this?

[gwgdog66 23]

There was a thread not too long ago about this. You are correct the 1156 bulbs are token at best. I'm going to order some LED's off one of the links mentioned in this thread.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=386

[Sarge 3,465]

I just rebuilt the headlight yesterday on the C-160 since only 1 bulb was working and the lense was shot . New lense, glass beaded and painted the housing (Valspar Silver) and installed it into a better-than-what-it-had hood . Pretty bright but didn't look as good as the '68 Charger I rebuilt for the brother-in-law. After some head scratching I happened to lean down hard on the hood and watched as the lights nearly doubled in intensity. Bingo! Direct soldered a wire right onto both bulb sockets after removing the fresh paint and ran a ground directly to the engine block. Problem solved and pretty bright for just a pair of 1156 bulbs. Also mounted a simple PM 55w flood to the back of the seat rest for the rear, should help a lot since I have a rear blade for it this winter.

I've also thought hard about using some of the available rock lights from Super Bright LED's . com . They seem pretty tough and could be hidden to not detract from an original-looking tractor . We know firsthand how good they work on the trail despite mud/water, might be worth a thought.

Sarge

[MikesRJ 558]

I just installed a set of lights (Kit# 8-8015) on my 10HP-8 Speed and said the same thing before the kit arrived.

I have to tell you you'll eat humble pie for that statement, I sure did. You'll be surprised how much light they give off, certainly more than what you would expect. You could definitely cut grass or snow plow by them. Get the kit and install them, you won't be sorry.

[gwgdog66 23]

I just installed a set of lights (Kit# 8-8015) on my 10HP-8 Speed and said the same thing before the kit arrived.

I have to tell you you'll eat humble pie for that statement, I sure did. You'll be surprised how much light they give off, certainly more than what you would expect. You could definitely cut grass or snow plow by them. Get the kit and install them, you won't be sorry.

Mike, where were you able to find this kit? I was thinking about replacing just item #2 on my C-160 but like to have passed a brick when I seen the price tag.

I'm now thinking about doing like Sarge, and painting and soldering the old socket's to a better ground, and adding a diferent bulb.

[MikesRJ 558]

A friend had the kit sitting on his shelf and gave it to me. Yes, I too saw the one on evilBay for over $100. One things for sure, be patient and when you're not looking for it, it will appear.

Since my kit was NOS, I suspect in a few years I may see the ground issue arise. I wiped down the exterior of the sockets with a little dialectic grease as well as some on the inside of the socket hole. This should thwart corrosion for an extended period of time. But for now they are working as designed.

[Sarge 3,465]

The whole issue with corrosion, in my opinion, is the lack of a direct ground. Until the hood is solidly latched (against aluminum, no less) it is basically isolated. If the hood bushings, ect are in good shape there is no way for a solid ground to the lights. This is like many automobile grounding issues and can lead to premature corrosion , I owned a Japanese truck for 12 years, been there , done that . Prior to adding the direct ground the amp guage never hardly showed a draw from the lights . Now, the guage snaps right up and shows a charge rate of around 12amps due to the rear flood light being added .

Sarge

[W9JAB 156]

Auto Zone about 12 bucks for the pair.

Used fender washers from the back.no holes drilled.

Work great :scratchead:

[MikesRJ 558]

A pair of antenna's suction cupped to the front corners of the hood and you can turn it into a grasshopper.

Sarge,

I don't disagree that poor ground will cause corrosion, but it's more likely to be the dis-similar metals. You have a steel hood, pot-metal housing, and chrome-nickle-brass sockets. Add a little moisture and you have a great battery. The easiest "fix" would be the installation of a short ground wire between hood and frame.

Mike

[Sarge 3,465]

I'm no expert in metallurgy or chemistry, but wouldn't a solid ground wire to the hood accelerate the issue with the pot metal housing? This is why I directly soldered a ground wire to the light sockets themselves...

Sarge

[MikesRJ 558]

I would suspect it would have some slowing effect, kind of like adding a zinc anode, but the interaction between dissimilar metals will still take place.

Unfortunately "pot-metal" is normally made up of one or more parts of zinc, lead, copper, magnesium, aluminum, iron, tin, cadmium, and other metals (all are electrically "sacrificial" metals); and is one of the most anodic-ally active metals in the presence of steel.

This may help some: http://www2.mtec.or.th/th/research/famd/co...5Chowmetals.htm

[MikesRJ 558]

Mike, where were you able to find this kit? I was thinking about replacing just item #2 on my C-160 but like to have passed a brick when I seen the price tag.

I'm now thinking about doing like Sarge, and painting and soldering the old socket's to a better ground, and adding a diferent bulb.

I just realized what item #2 was. The wire and particularly the contact end can be bought at radio shack for under $2.00.

[W9JAB 156]

:scratchead:

[linen beige 15]

I can almost hear it saying...

Wiiiiiilllllbuuuurrrrrr!

[Crow Horse 8]

I believe the dis-similar metal corrosion is called galvanic corrosion. Here's an informative link.....

Galvanic Corrosion

I like the mounting of the lights on the front of the grill. It gives me some ideas... (Uh-Oh.... I smell ANOTHER project in the works.....)

[Sarge 3,465]

That pic slays me, can anyone say Mater?

Might want to look into the old bugeye style light kits, Crow. If nothing else, you can bend up a piece of conduit and build your own without any hood mods or drilling ....and use nearly any lights you want within the limits of the charging system .

Sarge

[MikesRJ 558]

W9JAB,

I would have never thought of the "Goofy-Toofies". Had me rolling.

Crow,

You're absolutely correct.

I agree with Sarge. I have a real problem taking a drill or saw to a WH. I would add lights in a fashion where you don't modify the machine's original structure. Here's the manual for the HL-5 lighting kit to see what Sarge is talking about: http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/...ht_Kit_HL-5.pdf

The mount at the bottom of the light support bar simply clamps to the frame rails rather than requiring holes to be drilled anywhere on the machine. The support bar's angle and length can be adjusted during the making to position the lights where ever you like them.

[MikesRJ 558]

I just checked the "Assembly Light Panel Accessory" - form# 8-0812 document and it shows the installation of a ground wire between hood and frame. As soon as I get it scanned into a PDF I will post it on MWH.

[can whlvr 994]

i put a ground wire from the hood to the frame and it made a huge differance for the betgter,buy i like the direct solder way,eliminates some of the problem areas and is simple to do.

[Crow Horse 8]

Taking this thread in a different direction, I haven't heard of a relay being used. Is there a reason not to use one?

[Sarge 3,465]

There really isn't much of a need for a relay here, not that much current draw nor distance. Besides, my old C has enough holes in her that need patching, didn't even add another switch for the rear light .

Figured the old saying applies - a picture is worth a thousand words....

Front lights-from the seat position...

Looking at it from the front-

There was a fair bit of ambient light from the neighborhood street lights, but overall they are way brighter than expected .

Sarge