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Phan

Muffle remove

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Phan

Hello, Happy Spring!

Could you please advise should I remove the connecting muffler pipe from B100. I want to use it on WH12 NO Name? Any risks/concerns? Thank you!

B100 Muffler to engine.jpg

WH12 Muffler to engine.jpg

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ri702bill

Since they are all simple black iron pipe components that are readily available, why not just go with new pieces??

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rmaynard

Since those three pieces now cost about $16.00 here in the U.S., he might be wanting to save a couple bucks.

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, rmaynard said:

Since those three pieces now cost about $16.00 here in the U.S., he might be wanting to save a couple bucks.

But is it really worth the aggrevation to remove the fittings & you usually need to crush the block nipple anyway to get it out. All the carbon packs the NPT threads for a "lifetime" fit... I would think that inch sized pipe & fittings would be available up there ...

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Phan
2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Since they are all simple black iron pipe components that are readily available, why not just go with new pieces??

I may be able to them fine from a local store - do I need any glue or just tighten the pipe to the engine?

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Phan
1 hour ago, ri702bill said:

But is it really worth the aggrevation to remove the fittings & you usually need to crush the block nipple anyway to get it out. All the carbon packs the NPT threads for a "lifetime" fit... I would think that inch sized pipe & fittings would be available up there ...

I want to install a round muffler out directly from the engine - however, I'm afraid to damage the engine when removing process

https://www.amazon.ca/cart/smart-wagon?newItems=eb9b2ef2-8796-48de-aff0-976d72693e28,1&ref_=sw_refresh

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ri702bill

No glue required! Just a pipe wrench. Those are tapered threads that "lock" when tightened...

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oldlineman

That's what I was thinking, I would buy new and not take the chance of damaging the old block if you were going to save it.

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Lee1977

After been on there around 50 years. it's not likely they are coming apart  without damage to the block.

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sqrlgtr
3 hours ago, Phan said:

I want to install a round muffler out directly from the engine - however, I'm afraid to damage the engine when removing process

If you're wanting to plumb the motor in 2nd pic I would defiantly just go back with new. If you're trying to remove from top pic motor and use on 2nd pic motor the juice is defiantly not worth the squeeze :D.

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gwest_ca

See if you can find an electrical conduit lock nut to add to the fitting before you install it into the block. Install the fitting as far as it will go into the block and then back it out at least 1/2 a turn so the fitting is loose. Using a hammer and punch now tighten the lock nut against the block. Fitting is now tight. If you remove using the reverse sequence once a year it will likely never be seized again. I always apply graphite to the threads as it seems to help.

What the lock nuts look like available from Home Depot or the like. They are available for all common pipe sizes.

This is a procedure I learned from a small engine repair shop that serviced thousands of small engines a year. It was part of their regular service.

 

Exhaust lock nut.jpg

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953 nut
10 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

electrical conduit lock nut

Not all electrical conduit lock nuts are the same, be sure to ask for a RIDGID CONDUIT LOCK NUT. Many of the lock nuts sold at big box stores are for EMT fittings and will not work well, go to an electrical supply house.

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Phan
On 4/1/2026 at 9:59 PM, gwest_ca said:

See if you can find an electrical conduit lock nut to add to the fitting before you install it into the block. Install the fitting as far as it will go into the block and then back it out at least 1/2 a turn so the fitting is loose. Using a hammer and punch now tighten the lock nut against the block. Fitting is now tight. If you remove using the reverse sequence once a year it will likely never be seized again. I always apply graphite to the threads as it seems to help.

What the lock nuts look like available from Home Depot or the like. They are available for all common pipe sizes.

This is a procedure I learned from a small engine repair shop that serviced thousands of small engines a year. It was part of their regular service.

 

Exhaust lock nut.jpg

Hi gwest_ca: I truly appreciate your suggestion — it's very helpful! I will follow your instructions when installing the muffler on the WH Auto 12. In the first picture, I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the connected pipe and the 45-degree elbow because I want to install a MaxPower muffler straight from the block. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000LL9MGQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 Anyone can help to delete the second picture by mistake. 

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adsm08
On 3/31/2026 at 12:52 PM, rmaynard said:

Since those three pieces now cost about $16.00 here in the U.S., he might be wanting to save a couple bucks.

 

I understand prices are up and quality down, but but if $16 is your financial breaking point this might not be a good choice of hobby.

 

Heck, I just paid my kid $20 to help me move gravel today.

 

 

However, I have found the best way to do this is to take a good pipe wrench and turn it in a little, then try to run it out. When I took the first one out of my 855 I was literally picking the front of the tractor up off the ground going left. Turned it right 1/8 of a turn and then it came right out.

Edited by adsm08
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wallfish
52 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

 

I understand prices are up and quality down, but but if $16 is your financial breaking point this might not be a good choice of hobby.

 

Heck, I just paid my kid $20 to help me move gravel today.

 

 

However, I have found the best way to do this is to take a good pipe wrench and turn it in a little, then try to run it out. When I took the first one out of my 855 I was literally picking the front of the tractor up off the ground going left. Turned it right 1/8 of a turn and then it came right out.

 

And if the engine runs, fire it up and get that exhaust pipe and head hot. It comes out easier :twocents-02cents:

For the original poster's purpose, spend the $16 on new pipe parts, and one of those max power mufflers only equals max amount of noise. Those things are basically spark arrestors and do very  little to nothing to "muffle" the sound level. :twocents-02cents: 

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pfrederi

Quiet is not a word I would use to describe that type of muffler

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Phan
On 3/31/2026 at 5:59 PM, Lee1977 said:

After been on there around 50 years. it's not likely they are coming apart  without damage to the block.

A scary !!! (:

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Phan
On 3/31/2026 at 3:39 PM, ri702bill said:

No glue required! Just a pipe wrench. Those are tapered threads that "lock" when tightened...

Great !

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Phan
16 hours ago, adsm08 said:

 

I understand prices are up and quality down, but but if $16 is your financial breaking point this might not be a good choice of hobby.

 

Heck, I just paid my kid $20 to help me move gravel today.

 

 

However, I have found the best way to do this is to take a good pipe wrench and turn it in a little, then try to run it out. When I took the first one out of my 855 I was literally picking the front of the tractor up off the ground going left. Turned it right 1/8 of a turn and then it came right out.

Good to learn from your experience!

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Phan

Thanks everyone for inputs the muffler !!!

The WH B100 (pictures 1-2) does not run because the PTO switch is broken. I need the muffler from the B100 to be used for the WH Auto 12, which it does not have a muffler (picture 3).  

 

I would not put the muffler up 

 

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