Which Year Wheel Horse I have and 310-8 on Hood?

[953 nut 64,540]

I do not own this model year 310-8 so am not positive where the switches will be located.

In the drawing below the low oil relay is circled in RED, the clutch switch is circled in BLUE, and the PTO switches are circled in Brown.

[JCM 10,909]

Clutch neutral safety switch.  # 8 in diagram. It's a white rocker type switch.

[953 nut 64,540]

Your clutch lever has a tab on the side opposite the idler pulley that will actuate the clutch switch.

[Railboy 8]

953 nut, and from the illustration and from what I recall, the Metal Proctive Cover does not come near it?

 

I am going to pull the cover to make sure it looks good I guess if I can see it?

 

But I did have issues getting the belt on the Transmission Pulley, could I have hit it then

or anything?  I am thinking from the illustration it is possible?

 

Also, I have not really hit on this much in the thread, but I do not have any charging and voltmeter

does not read.   Thus thinking do to the fuse blowing.

 

Thing here is that I have yet to see any wires that have been impeded upon.  So, bewildered 

as why the issue?

Edited Tuesday at 03:23 PM by Railboy

[702854boy 557]

Reading the post you made in the other topic, try checking your volt meter, I don't know how often or if it's something that can actually happen but maybe it shorted out internally, hence the staying at 8 volts all the time and possibly blowing the fuse.

[Railboy 8]

Hello 70285boy, yea, thinking of swapping out the relay that is right after the fuse for it has a ground wire to the chassis

and once removed, the ground wire that is from the chassis if I recall correct, there is no grounding out of the positive lead of

the fuse to negative.

 

Thing is I am not certain on how to test items out.  I have the solenoid, rectifier, and key switch to test out, but really wondering on

some the wiring going into 40 year old wiring, how maluable it is into moving around?  I have to pull the dash plate of the key switch

which has the Voltmeter in it, plus the test light switch and light.  I do not have an hour meter to worry about.

 

I guess I need to illuminate grounding issues from the fuse first.  And if I find a component get back to ya'll. 

 

Thing is right now is the weather, working outside in a 10X12 Shed.  So I have to open it up to access the tractor.

 

But yea, I can see the Voltmeter acting up, a braid breaking off and grounding out the charging circuit.

 

I will say this, I have both battery leads off the battery, so no cables attached, so that should be a plus

in meaning, no shortening out anything, but getting a full circuit, like a charging possibility if I did ground something

out with my meter, I do not need to be blowing up my meter, that is for sure.

 

And thank you for responding 70285boy, hope you are having a better day than I am, lol...

Edited Tuesday at 08:25 PM by Railboy

[Railboy 8]

@953 nut, Have a quick question for I am still learning about items on the tractor and there grounds.

 

If from what I recall the other day, I had the "Engine Connector", the one with the Stator and White Coil Wire apart

from the tractor side, and the relay I mentioned above, the one right after the 15 amp. fuse for it grounds out with

a crimped ring connector Black Wire was not attached to the chassis mounting the relay, should I "NOT" have a ground from the 

15 amp. fuse side if the Black Wire with the Ring Connector is not attached to the tractor at the same time with the Engine Connector?

 

See, I am learning what the Stator is or not grounded to work?  But do know it charges the battery.

 

And the Coil, with its White Wire, is or is not, supposed to ground out doing the positive fuse lead of the battery

to the Solenoid and relay at the same time.  

 

The lead from the fuse goes into the leads on my tractor, the solenoid 

then that relay that follows that I believe is in the diagram to the solenoid's positive battery cable.  And below it on

the solenoid there is an 8mm maybe or 6mm looking like connector on the solenoid where that lead that goes to the 

relay as in the diagram come from.

 

I believe I have the above correct.

 

So I believe all that corresponds to the diagram above.

 

Thing is this, I am doing continuity checks of grounding out to the tractor and the positive 15 amp. fuse

lead.

 

And trying to disconnect what can cause the continuity of the 15 amp (+) lead and back to the tractor.

 

So, please bear with me, but not knowing how the above components work, and if they ground naturally?

 

Thank you for working with me, everyone.  Just as I said though, before engine removal for the rebuild nothing wrong,

then reinstall is, 15 amp. issue.

 

Oh and so you know, I did Mower Deck work to and that worked out fine, did some cutting the other day with Magneto Power, lol..

 

Fun damn units I am telling you that, becoming a full time hobby, between my new houses yard and the tractor, lol..  Thank ya'll for 

the help.

Edited Tuesday at 09:04 PM by Railboy

[953 nut 64,540]

2 hours ago, Railboy said:

See, I am learning what the Stator is or not grounded to work?  But do know it charges the battery.

 

And the Coil, with its White Wire, is or is not, supposed to ground out doing the positive fuse lead of the battery

to the Solenoid and relay at the same time.  

The white wire connects your key switch to the battery through the 15 amp fuse while the key is in the run position. If it is charging the battery leave it alone.

The dark blue wire that goes behind the engine cover allows the magneto to produce ignition power while the key switch is in the run position, your ignition works so leave it alone.  If 12 volts were to be applied to it you would allow the expensive magic smoke to come out.;

The wiring on these units is not very complicated.

You have no low oil switch, remove the low oil relay, (you have a picture of it to go by from yesterday's post) connect the Light blue and purple wires that are on the relay and that will be the end of that conversation.

Remove all of the light blue wires and relay highlighted in yellow, your oil switch has already been removed.

 

[Railboy 8]

Hello 953 nut, First,  Thing is this, I thought the White Wire was a Coil Wire that gave the Coil Power for the Spark Plug completing the Magneto to have Spark?

Hence it goes to the Key Switch and when you cut the Key off, it (White wire) kills power.

 

Second, Connect the Purple after the Solenoid to the Light Blue before the Key Switch?  Now why am I doing this on my Tractor?

 

See, I understand that going into the Oil Sender is a Ground, and when the Oil Sender actuate's it completes a Negative Circuit?

 

Am I wrong?  But if I am wrong I am wrong, but wondering what I am doing in doing it?

 

Please explain for the Oil Sender from all I have gathered is a Negative Circuit grounding out a relay.

 

Something I wanted to do and this and this is not possible I don't think do to the Blown 15 amp. Fuse and tractor is running,   I would like to put a meter to the wiring through there shielding to check voltage, but, with the blow fuse, I have a dead circuit to follow and its possible Power Output, which negates my intentions from the beginning, testing I ideas.

 

This is why I am into doing and have been doing continuity test on everything.

 

Thing is I have not melted anything down yet, and hope to remain this way.

 

My tractor is a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8, so bear with me on collaborating the diagram to my tractor?  But yes, see

in the (Starter Motor Circuit) Diagram how things work, but how to test before just "connecting" wires?  I have Alligator Clips for Jumpers.

 

Yes, I like to be thorough, and yes, I can do circuit test before making "long lasting wire connecting" for testing to see if they work

before making them permanent.  And all I am trying to do is keep the Fuse from blowing and get the Dash's Voltmeter working to charge

the battery.

 

Which brings me back to the mid section and beginning that we need to look into. Does not the Stator have two wires and not

the White wire which I was told is the Coil Wire?  

 

On my connector they are Yellow and Black, these I was told are the Stator Wires,  this is the engine side of the connector.  And something here

I picked up on, the Black wire and Yellow wire on the engine side of the cover do not co-inside with the diagram, forget the deal there, but the white

remains white thus is the coil power supply from the ignition.

 

Sorry, sorry if the above is wordy.  Going over a lot.  

[953 nut 64,540]

12 hours ago, Railboy said:

Hello 953 nut, First,  Thing is this, I thought the White Wire was a Coil Wire that gave the Coil Power for the Spark Plug completing the Magneto to have Spark?

Hence it goes to the Key Switch and when you cut the Key off, it (White wire) kills power.

Magnetos are self powered, magnets on the flywheel produce electrical power as they pass the magneto coil. NEVER APPLY 12 VOLTS TO THE WIRE THAT GOES TO THHE MAGNETO!

Second, Connect the Purple after the Solenoid to the Light Blue before the Key Switch?  Now why am I doing this on my Tractor?

You do not have a low oil switch and are eliminating the low oil relay.

See, I understand that going into the Oil Sender is a Ground, and when the Oil Sender actuate's it completes a Negative Circuit?

Your low oil switch is gone, please foregit it ever existed.

Am I wrong?  But if I am wrong I am wrong, but wondering what I am doing in doing it?

                     ?    ?    What are you saying?

Please explain for the Oil Sender from all I have gathered is a Negative Circuit grounding out a relay.

THE LOW OIL SWITCH IS GONE, IT NO LONGER EXISTS.

Something I wanted to do and this and this is not possible I don't think do to the Blown 15 amp. Fuse and tractor is running,   I would like to put a meter to the wiring through there shielding to check voltage, but, with the blow fuse, I have a dead circuit to follow and its possible Power Output, which negates my intentions from the beginning, testing I ideas.

Check one wire at a tome to see if any wire other than black wires are grounded.

This is why I am into doing and have been doing continuity test on everything.

Checking for continuity to ground could help you find a wire that is grounded causing the fuse to b low.

Thing is I have not melted anything down yet, and hope to remain this way.

                                                 

My tractor is a 1987 Wheel Horse 310-8, so bear with me on collaborating the diagram to my tractor?  But yes, see

in the (Starter Motor Circuit) Diagram how things work, but how to test before just "connecting" wires?  I have Alligator Clips for Jumpers.

 

Yes, I like to be thorough, and yes, I can do circuit test before making "long lasting wire connecting" for testing to see if they work

before making them permanent.  And all I am trying to do is keep the Fuse from blowing and get the Dash's Voltmeter working to charge

the battery.

The 40 year old volt meter on your 310-8 may not work as well as your multimeter, check to see if they both read the same.

Which brings me back to the mid section and beginning that we need to look into. Does not the Stator have two wires and not

the White wire which I was told is the Coil Wire?  

Your engine runs, stay away from the ignition system and the charging system until the blown fuse problem has ben solved.

On my connector they are Yellow and Black, these I was told are the Stator Wires,  this is the engine side of the connector.  And something here

I picked up on, the Black wire and Yellow wire on the engine side of the cover do not co-inside with the diagram, forget the deal there, but the white

remains white thus is the coil power supply from the ignition.

The colors on the tractor side of the connector are Wheel Horse colors and are the same as the wiring diagram, the other side of the connector is Kohler colors and may not be the same.

Sorry, sorry if the above is wordy.  Going over a lot.  

None of what I have written here is new, it has all been covered before. You need to stop abscessing about the low oil switch and POLARITY.

A blown fuse is the result of a wire being grounded, check the wires for a pinched wire or insulation that has been damaged.

With the battery disconnected, do a methodical step by step check of your wiring, one wire at a time. When checking the wires from the ignition switch check each one in all positions, OFF, RUN, START. Let us know what you find.

 

Edited 19 hours ago by 953 nut

[Railboy 8]

@953 nut, So I have to apologize for the wrong info I had of first hand information on the way the Oil Sender worked.

 

I was told it passed along a negative polarity if the engine ran low of oil thus shutting off the engine, or illuminating the light.

I have never seen this but was told this.

 

So, on my Oil Sender I have two leads on it coming out that were cut at time of rebuild.  And these two leads were or are on the

diagram positive in and positive out unless Oil Sender actuates?

 

So, this is why I need to tie the Purple and Light Blue wires together, to mimic the positive polarity keeping a circuit bypassing the relay

all together?

 

Then, that is that?  Should not blow anymore fuses for the relay has been by passed and Oil Sender out?

 

Thank you for your time.

Edited 13 hours ago by Railboy

[Railboy 8]

Hello 953 nut and people, after diving into the tractor today, I have learned that I do not have the "Relay" that the "Tan" and "Orange" wire in the diagram

of the 1987 310 Model Diagram has it in.  I have pulled the Dash out with Ignition and also, there are no secret Relays or Rectifier to be hidden.

 

I did find the Light Blue Wire thus mine are painted.  I did a continuity check from the engine connector to the Ignition, and then went for the 

Dark Blue finding it getting continuity at the connector of the Dark Blue Wire to the "Test Switch" for the Light it triggers.

 

So, bear with me on something here as I looked at my diagrams.  

 

I am to disconnect the plug to the only relay left, the one that the Solenoid goes to with the Purple Wire?  And this is the only one I have

that gets power from the 15 amp. fuse to the Solenoid and Battery Cable, and so you know, the Fuse wire ties into the Battery Terminal Cable

back to the battery. 

 

And so,  go ahead and connect that Purple to the Light

Blue Wire at the Engine Connector, Mimicking the Oil Sender?

 

That is all I am to do?  And in doing so for the relay has no connector for I have unplugged it and pull the relay out?

 

And this will get rid of all my safety switches in doing so, for that is the only relay I have, is this true? lol  

 

And to pass it along, that relay that I have and is using a stock connector has the Dark Blue, Light Blue and Purple going into it.

 

So, this is the connector to disconnect from its relay.  And so you know, this relay grounds out to the chassis, which I guess hopefully 

is of no consequence for further operation for the relay will be disconnected, stopping the fuse from Blowing?

 

And just a note here, I will have no "Safety Switches" like the Clutch remaining if I got this correct?  Everything has been by-passed?

 

Thank ya'll for ya'll's time, sorry about the confusion, but the Seat Safety Switch I learned was just taken out, there is no pathway

for the current, there is no connection of the wires when the person did it.  Thing is this also had me thinking that is how the Oil Sender

worked as well.  And yes, confused at the beginning, but think ya'll for ya'll's knowledge.