oliver2-44 11,263 #1 Posted Friday at 03:15 AM (edited) Marketplace had an ad for a K321 14 hp, turned out to be a 12 hp. $50 so that’s Ok. Guy said he was rebuilding if for a Ford LGT145 but lost interest. I suspect he realized this is a wide base block and the Ford requires a narrow base block. It has been setting partially built for 3 years with no covering over cylinder. As a minimum I’ll pull oil pan and valve cover to clean it. I’ll also measure crank and plastic age it. He said new piston and rod. He sure made some marks on the top of the piston driving it in if that’s a new piston. I can just make out the o.020 mark on the piston in the middle of those marks. The bore measures 3.397-3.398 top and bottom and 90 degrees (snap gages and mic). That’s about right for a block bored 0.020 over. I’m surprised that I can barely turn it by hand on crankshaft. This makes me want to pull piston and measure ring end clearance and piston clearance. I can’t tell if anything was done to valves so I need to look closer at them. But for a price that was less the cost of a machine shop bore job, it’s a good one to disassemble and know that I did it correctly. Got some other parts. Thad a Waldorf carb, and its shafts are nice with no worn out wobble. No head, flywheel or tins, but I have them from several worn out kohler I have for parts. Also picked these weights for $80. I need to weight them. Their heavy. Stay tuned for a slow exploring and rebuild. Edited Friday at 03:18 AM by oliver2-44 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,354 #2 Posted Friday at 10:22 AM (edited) Nice score- 2 OE fuel pumps. He was just signing his name on top of the piston - "Hackman" Folks forget that you use the handle end of the hammer for that - I suspect that the rings may very well be damaged.... Edited Friday at 10:23 AM by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 77,520 #3 Posted Friday at 11:22 AM I've seen piston dents a lot like that in engines that swallowed foreign objects. Definitely a good buy and Definitely needs disassembly and more measurements. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,284 #4 Posted Friday at 01:45 PM 10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: pull piston and measure ring end clearance and piston clearance. If the rings weren't gapped that would explain the need to drive the piston into the cylionder. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 55,200 #5 Posted Friday at 02:11 PM 10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: This makes me want to pull piston and measure ring end clearance and piston clearance. I would for sure not relying on someone else's work. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,354 #6 Posted Friday at 04:00 PM 1 hour ago, WHX?? said: I would for sure not relying on someone else's work. The more ya look, the more you find...... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,644 #7 Posted Friday at 04:58 PM It is just like buying an old house, you want to find one that has never been molested. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 11,263 #8 Posted 10 hours ago (edited) Last night I pulled the oil pan to start checking the inside out. So so clean Verified oil hole facing correct direction on cam side this side of rod has a casting line so I’ll use that to keep rod and cap aligned. pulled piston. Crank has been ground and measured 1.490. So that’s good. I’ll plastigate clearance on reassembly. Crank was hard to turn even after I removed piston. I tried to check crank side clearance - NONE. Loosened bearings plate bolts and crank turns easy. So need to add gasket shims to get crank clearance per kohler spec. Block needs a good cleaning. I get a black finger tip when I run inside of block. More than just black oil. I think there is still some cast iron dust from boring block. Tomorrow I’ll pull valves. Edited 33 minutes ago by oliver2-44 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
