mrharris12 37 #1 Posted February 12 I have done it before but it has been a while since removing the steering on my 418. I am trying to get part #19 and #15 removed from the tractor based on the picture included. The only thing in the way is the whole steering column/shaft. Anyone have a trick to get this off easily? Toro 41-18KE01, 418-C Garden Tractor, 1987 Parts Diagram for FRONT AXLE AND STEERING.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,617 #2 Posted February 12 (edited) Start by raising the tractor for better access below. Loosen the steering shaft collar #26. Slide the collar down about 2 inches. You then can pull up on the steering wheel; the shaft will follow releasing the lower gear in the block. You need to disconnect the two tie rods at the triangle on the #15 lower shaft. Unbolt the lower steering block # 19 at the mounts and pull the pin on #15. Slide both the shaft back to disengage the front support bearing #12. Both parts should now be free to remove. Why is this being done - is the lower steering support being replaced?? Note the quantity and total thickness of the shims - they set the gear teeth mesh clearance. Shim accordingly on reassembly, then hook up the tie rods... Edited February 12 by ri702bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #3 Posted February 12 59 minutes ago, ri702bill said: Start by raising the tractor for better access below. Loosen the steering shaft collar #26. Slide the collar down about 2 inches. You then can pull up on the steering wheel; the shaft will follow releasing the lower gear in the block. You need to disconnect the two tie rods at the triangle on the #15 lower shaft. Unbolt the lower steering block # 19 at the mounts and pull the pin on #15. Slide both the shaft back to disengage the front support bearing #12. Both parts should now be free to remove. Why is this being done - is the lower steering support being replaced?? Note the quantity and total thickness of the shims - they set the gear teeth mesh clearance. Shim accordingly on reassembly, then hook up the tie rods... Ok I will try and loosen up the shaft collar. I have gotten everything else off already. I am doing this because the steering is really loose. The bronze bearing is completely shot and needs to be replaced. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 64,838 #4 Posted February 13 If you can't remove the shaft a split shaft bearing my be the answer. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shaft-bearings/construction~split/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #5 Posted February 14 On 2/12/2026 at 4:11 PM, ri702bill said: Start by raising the tractor for better access below. Loosen the steering shaft collar #26. Slide the collar down about 2 inches. You then can pull up on the steering wheel; the shaft will follow releasing the lower gear in the block. You need to disconnect the two tie rods at the triangle on the #15 lower shaft. Unbolt the lower steering block # 19 at the mounts and pull the pin on #15. Slide both the shaft back to disengage the front support bearing #12. Both parts should now be free to remove. Why is this being done - is the lower steering support being replaced?? Note the quantity and total thickness of the shims - they set the gear teeth mesh clearance. Shim accordingly on reassembly, then hook up the tie rods... Do I need to also remove the retaining ring below the collar? If so what is the best way to do that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,617 #6 Posted February 14 That would be item #36... Yes, a small flat blade screwdriver set parallel to the shaft and pry it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #7 Posted February 15 7 hours ago, ri702bill said: That would be item #36... Yes, a small flat blade screwdriver set parallel to the shaft and pry it out. What is the best way to get #15 out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,617 #8 Posted February 15 8 hours ago, mrharris12 said: What is the best way to get #15 out? Free it up at both ends, lower it and turn it 90 dedrees to allow the fan gear to drop between the frame rails. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #9 Posted February 15 6 hours ago, ri702bill said: Free it up at both ends, lower it and turn it 90 dedrees to allow the fan gear to drop between the frame rails. both ends are free, turning it and getting out is going to take some trial and error. appreciate that 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,867 #10 Posted February 15 I have always removed and installed that with the engine removed. It will be a challenge with the engine installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #11 Posted February 15 1 hour ago, cleat said: I have always removed and installed that with the engine removed. It will be a challenge with the engine installed. Yeah after trying on it I dont know if I will be able to get it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #12 Posted February 15 13 hours ago, ri702bill said: Free it up at both ends, lower it and turn it 90 dedrees to allow the fan gear to drop between the frame rails. The whole reason I am working on this is that #23 has deteriorated. Do I need to get #15 out from underneath or do I just need to get the steering block out and fit the bronze bearing (#23) inside of it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 11,617 #13 Posted February 15 (edited) If all you need to remove is the lower steering block, you still need to get the steering shaft out of it. Then remove the block... The block has a very thin walled bushing - use a piloted insertion tool if you can to prevent damaging the new one... Edited February 15 by ri702bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,532 #14 Posted February 15 You only need to remove 15, repair it with a new bushing and replace it. That shaft doesn't need to be removed for that but inspect it first 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,867 #15 Posted February 15 3 minutes ago, mrharris12 said: The whole reason I am working on this is that #23 has deteriorated. Do I need to get #15 out from underneath or do I just need to get the steering block out and fit the bronze bearing (#23) inside of it? I would think if you rebuild the steering block you should be good much better. I don't think I have ever done much to the lower shaft except for cleaning and painting to make it look better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #16 Posted February 16 1 hour ago, wallfish said: You only need to remove 15, repair it with a new bushing and replace it. That shaft doesn't need to be removed for that but inspect it first Oh ok, that sounds a lot better than trying to get the fan gear out... Where can I get a new bushing for this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 19,532 #17 Posted February 16 24 minutes ago, mrharris12 said: Oh ok, that sounds a lot better than trying to get the fan gear out... Where can I get a new bushing for this? Click right on the link you posted in your first post and scroll down. Click #23 bronze bushing. But $21.00 seems kinda steep. I believe they are a common 7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bronze bushing. Probably find them longer in length than what you need but then cut off the excess after tapping it into the hole. A fine round file or even sandpaper can be used to smooth that cut edge. I haven't changed any of those but added quite a few bushings to the ones that didn't come with a bushing in them. Most of my tractors are older Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrharris12 37 #18 Posted February 16 12 hours ago, wallfish said: Click right on the link you posted in your first post and scroll down. Click #23 bronze bushing. But $21.00 seems kinda steep. I believe they are a common 7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bronze bushing. Probably find them longer in length than what you need but then cut off the excess after tapping it into the hole. A fine round file or even sandpaper can be used to smooth that cut edge. I haven't changed any of those but added quite a few bushings to the ones that didn't come with a bushing in them. Most of my tractors are older If it is the 7/8 OD x 3/4 ID bearing, that would be nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
