CD Long Jr 203 #1 Posted February 5 (edited) Installed weights, mounted blade after the hydraulic lift decided to work. Pin that unlocks the blade to angle is frozen. Can I pry up the cap on top of the blade for access to the pin? Engine idled down & stalled. Wasn't out of gas, but I filled her up anyway. Now she won't restart? Restarted after 30 minutes. Plowed about 10 minutes. Engine started spurting, then died again & won't restart again. The coil is not bolted down? Both bolts are missing. Anyone know the size? I have plowed and died 3 times. Each time I wait 30 minutes and she's fired up, I plow 10-15 minutes, she dies. I wait 30 minutes she starts, we plow, she dies. I really like the tractor, but this diein' & waitin' cramp's gotta get fixed. Gas flow isn't the problem. I have a full stream when disconnected from the 2nd fuel filter closest to the carb. I will loosen the as cap next go round. Edited February 5 by CD Long Jr More info to add. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 20,128 #2 Posted February 5 Engine stalling, loosen the gas cap, the vent may be plugged creating a vacuum the fuel pump can't over come. after it sits vacuum disappears. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 30,920 #3 Posted February 5 Frozen pin... penetrating oil... whack it with a hammer... repeat... when free... copious amounts of oil then red tacky grease everything in the swing area... 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,524 #4 Posted February 5 16 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Engine stalling, loosen the gas cap, the vent may be plugged creating a vacuum the fuel pump can't over come. after it sits vacuum disappears. I don't recall if you did this. Remove the fuel line at the tank shutoff valve and check for a free flowing stream. If not, remove the valve and throw the screen away Clean the valve and replace with a new grommet.. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #5 Posted February 5 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Engine stalling, loosen the gas cap, the vent may be plugged creating a vacuum the fuel pump can't over come. after it sits vacuum disappears. Cap looks new, but I'll try it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #6 Posted February 5 48 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: I don't recall if you did this. Remove the fuel line at the tank shutoff valve and check for a free flowing stream. If not, remove the valve and throw the screen away Clean the valve and replace with a new grommet.. I have a full stream between the second fuel filter and the carb. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,655 #7 Posted February 5 That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again. 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leabassett@sbcglobal.net 170 #8 Posted February 5 4 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again. What he said. See if you still have spark when it dies. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #9 Posted February 5 24 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again. That what the little research I've done suggested. When I looked up the coil on Parts Tree, it doesn't look like mine? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 23,655 #10 Posted February 5 I had a second horse, so I could just switch the coils and fixed the problem. I did a search for "bad coil" and a ton of good threads popped up...try that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #11 Posted February 5 34 minutes ago, stevasaurus said: I had a second horse, so I could just switch the coils and fixed the problem. I did a search for "bad coil" and a ton of good threads popped up...try that. I've ordered a coil. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,812 #12 Posted February 5 @CD Long Jr https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAY the end of plow frame swing levers , like a hitch pin clip , pushed thru to last big hole ? once there , they will not fall out or get lost . plow swing area is called STEERING QUADRANT , the steel rod that is saposed to pull on that related compression spring , is attached to your squeeze lever , every stage of that , requires , a snug / lubricated fit , to relay your intent to the , quadrant slide pin , inside the swing arc area , note your lube on the pop off inspection area , you want to pop off that cover to show you how that works , penetrating oil , then red aerosol spray grease , extension tube , to pin point spring / slide pin , also the plow frame swing hole frame angular mounting , https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyCAgDEAAYFhgeMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEIOTE1OWowajSoAgGwAgHxBUFJFm6aUYwJ8QVBSRZumlGMCQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#sv=CAYS6QESABosMmFoVUtFd2lFazRIQXBjT1NBeFVjRUZrRkhYUTVFVHdRZ2kxNkJBZ2RFQlEihQEKFDExNDcxMTYwMTYzNDQ1ODAyMzc0EhM1MDUyMDc3NzgwODk4NTQ4NDgxGgAiFDExNTU1MDQ4NzIzNzc3MzAzOTc5KgAyFDE1NDg1MzE1ODcxOTUwMTA0MjkxOgBKAmhnUgBiAGoAigEAoAEDsAEAwgEAygEA2gEA4gEA8AEA-gEAkgIAMABCLTJhaFVLRXdpRWs0SEFwY09TQXhVY0VGa0ZIWFE1RVR3UXJvZ0dlZ1FJSFJBTiCK_aW_DTACSgoIARACGAEgASgB, this detailing , transforms plow set ups , glad you are on it , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,700 #13 Posted February 5 (edited) The replacement coils are shaped differently, some require a hole to be drilled and tapped and special mount. The stalling you have sounds exactly like an ignition module failing, usually from heat and is more prevalent in summer but can happen any time. When you have a shutdown, immediately check for spark. The original ignition modules are hard to find and very expensive, there are aftermarket kits that contain the module, coil, condenser and mounting hardware on the Bay for as little as $83. I have seen good reviews for the cheap kits. That plug on top of the plow frame is an electrical knockout plug. Edited February 5 by lynnmor 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #14 Posted February 6 (edited) 3 hours ago, peter lena said: @CD Long Jr https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAY the end of plow frame swing levers , like a hitch pin clip , pushed thru to last big hole ? once there , they will not fall out or get lost . Yes Sir, they are. plow swing area is called STEERING QUADRANT , the steel rod that is supposed to pull on that related compression spring , I think the spring is missing, I have to push the pin into locked position by hand, is attached to your squeeze lever , every stage of that , requires , a snug / lubricated fit , to relay your intent to the , quadrant slide pin , inside the swing arc area , note your lube on the pop off inspection area , you want to pop off that cover to show you how that works , Will do, penetrating oil , then red aerosol spray grease , extension tube , to pin point spring / slide pin , also the plow frame swing hole frame angular mounting , https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyCAgDEAAYFhgeMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEIOTE1OWowajSoAgGwAgHxBUFJFm6aUYwJ8QVBSRZumlGMCQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#sv=CAYS6QESABosMmFoVUtFd2lFazRIQXBjT1NBeFVjRUZrRkhYUTVFVHdRZ2kxNkJBZ2RFQlEihQEKFDExNDcxMTYwMTYzNDQ1ODAyMzc0EhM1MDUyMDc3NzgwODk4NTQ4NDgxGgAiFDExNTU1MDQ4NzIzNzc3MzAzOTc5KgAyFDE1NDg1MzE1ODcxOTUwMTA0MjkxOgBKAmhnUgBiAGoAigEAoAEDsAEAwgEAygEA2gEA4gEA8AEA-gEAkgIAMABCLTJhaFVLRXdpRWs0SEFwY09TQXhVY0VGa0ZIWFE1RVR3UXJvZ0dlZ1FJSFJBTiCK_aW_DTACSgoIARACGAEgASgB, this detailing , transforms plow set ups , glad you are on it , pete Attached is page 2 of the blade manual. It shows an indexing cable from the pin to the frame, but nothing from the frame to the handle? What I have is heavy wire from the handle to a triangular plate on the blade frame, then another wire from there to the pin. Edited February 6 by CD Long Jr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leabassett@sbcglobal.net 170 #15 Posted February 6 My blade has a steel rod/wire that angles the blade. I do not think it has a cable. I have not used it in a few years but I do not remember a cable. I will look tomorrow. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 55,829 #16 Posted February 6 9 hours ago, CD Long Jr said: Engine started spurting, then died again & won't restart again Steve nailed it. Coil gets hot and opens up ... cools down and restarts. Common issue with that coil tucked down in the heat. Check the coil for cracked plastic a dead giveaway. Having five Onans I got tired of it and remounted the coil in open air. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,706 #17 Posted February 6 14 hours ago, CD Long Jr said: Pin that unlocks the blade to angle is frozen. When I had that pin stuck, Installed vise grips on the end sticking out and turn it and use the edge of the plow frame as a fulcrum. I have also removed the wire and used a drift punch in the wire hole doing the same. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CD Long Jr 203 #18 Posted February 6 53 minutes ago, JoeM said: When I had that pin stuck, Installed vise grips on the end sticking out and turn it and use the edge of the plow frame as a fulcrum. I have also removed the wire and used a drift punch in the wire hole doing the same. Yep, the vise grips worked for me too. Along with a 4 pound hammer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 6,534 #19 Posted February 6 (edited) 2 hours ago, CD Long Jr said: Yep, the vise grips worked for me too. Along with a 4 pound hammer. That area on the plow frame needs to be lubricated regularly. Just consider all the moisture from the snow that gets in there then melts and causes rust. I PM that plow every fall when I put it together. Meaning I take the plow assay of the tractor for summer use. Just a regular maintenance like he would on the engine and the rest of the tractor. When you get everything in a good running order just follow a regular maintenance for summer use and winter use. Enjoy the project and most important just take your time. Rushing never helps. I’ve been there too many times. Edited February 6 by Retired Wrencher 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 45,524 #20 Posted February 6 1 hour ago, Retired Wrencher said: That area on the plow frame needs to be lubricated regularly. Yep, I had picked up a rusted short frame for scrap price. The pin and sector was permanently rust welded. For a year I soaked it, beat on it, and used BF pipe wrenches but could not get the bolt or pin to move. Finally I used it to mount my front tiller. No need for it to turn for the tiller. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites