What have I done to my Wheel Horse today?

[CD Long Jr 162]

Not a darn thing, it's too cold, BUT, with the advice of 2 members I consider my mentors, I bought a 416H for $400 and the front blade rear axle bracket for $40. @ 55lb wheel weights for $50 & 2 smaller Sears lawn tractor weights & chains for $55. Only issues with the 416His the seat strut. screw missing from fuel pump & hydro creeps. Now I need ideas how to mount the smaller weights on the draw bar. Is something missing from the parking brake lock lever. Seems awfully short? Ordered the missing seat bracket.

Edited Thursday at 11:14 PM by CD Long Jr
Forgot a question.

[kpinnc 16,835]

1 hour ago, CD Long Jr said:

hydro creeps.

 

 

 

Eatons in particular, act very different from cold to warm. It's best to drive it around for 15 mins or more to warm it up before jacking the rear wheels and adjusting the cam. Even then, I have to set my brake just to be sure it won't creep. 

 

Looks like a solid tractor. Rare to see hubcaps nowadays that are relatively rust free. That tells me it was stored indoors at least. I certainly would have grabbed it for the same price you paid. Well done! 

 

Change all your fluids and filters and put it to work! 

 

 

Edited Thursday at 09:29 PM by kpinnc

[Ed Kennell 44,436]

Wow,  $400 for the hub caps and a free 416H.

[Handy Don 15,696]

Wel

2 hours ago, CD Long Jr said:

I bought a 416H

Well played. Fair prices for a good machine.

If you can, avoid adding weights on the drawbar. It’s a pulling hitch, not a lifting one.

Lots of examples here of stronger rear hitches using the rear plow mount bolts. Couple pieces of angle iron and some simple welds (or even bolts).

Even those of us without dedicated snow machines tend to leave the plow mount on year-round. 

[CD Long Jr 162]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

 

 

Eatons in particular, act very different from cold to warm. It's best to drive it around for 15 mins or more to warm it up before jacking the rear wheels and adjusting the cam. Even then, I have to set my brake just to be sure it won't creep. 

 

Looks like a solid tractor. Rare to see hubcaps nowadays that are relatively rust free. That tells me it was stored indoors at least. I certainly would have grabbed it for the same price you paid. Well done! 

 

Change all your fluids and filters and put it to work! 

 

 

Will do. Hub caps won't be on long. This ole girl & the 312-8 will be dedicated snow machines. Gonna get their own shed. I'll probably be road tripin' in the spring. Seems all the snowblowers are up north. Blade on the 312-8 & blower on the 416H, although he does have a nice 416-8 for sale & several 520Hs.

[CD Long Jr 162]

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

 

 

Eatons in particular, act very different from cold to warm. It's best to drive it around for 15 mins or more to warm it up before jacking the rear wheels and adjusting the cam. Even then, I have to set my brake just to be sure it won't creep. 

 

Looks like a solid tractor. Rare to see hubcaps nowadays that are relatively rust free. That tells me it was stored indoors at least. I certainly would have grabbed it for the same price you paid. Well done! 

 

Change all your fluids and filters and put it to work! 

 

 

Yes, he had it in a garage, I was like a kid in a candy store. He has tractors & parts out the ying-yang. 45 minutes from me, We're gonna be best buds, 

[Lee1977 7,535]

Here is a Receiver Hitch I made for my 520 with a Eaton  Hydro. That was back eight years when I could still see to weld,

It's built with  1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle. The braces down to the transmission are loose (not welded to the hitch, once in place they can't move.)

 

 

[WHX?? 54,199]

6 hours ago, CD Long Jr said:

s something missing from the parking brake lock lever.

Looks like it's missing the whole lever. The shaft stub is very short. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/118860-reproduction-wheel-horse-parking-brake-knob/

[Ed Kennell 44,436]

11 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Looks like it's missing the whole lever. The shaft stub is very short. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/118860-reproduction-wheel-horse-parking-brake-knob/

 

  This is the locking lever and that is the same length as mine on my 520.

[WHX?? 54,199]

My bad  ...  all mine are a stub shaft in the left side cover but late model 520s. 

Well the hole is there ...

[Ed Kennell 44,436]

There should be a rubber sleeve on the lever but it is missing on most tractors.

[JoeM 9,484]

12 hours ago, CD Long Jr said:

something missing from the parking brake lock lever.

A little tough to see, but I took an old shift knob and shaft cut it and welded a clamp on it for the neighbors machine.

 

this bracket bolted up to the plow attachment

 

Ended up with a frame that he puts buckets of sand on for weight and traction.

 

he is really into it!

Edited Friday at 08:51 AM by JoeM

[peter lena 9,671]

@CD Long Jr    good morning  mr long !  you are  very obviousely well on your way  !  interesting  that  people talk about  extra weight , load , with no thought  of enhancing . helping that out ? https://www.google.com/search?q=Heavy+Duty+Anti+Vibration+Pads&mrq=1&mrqri=1&mrqei=0QJ-ab_3FoCB5OMPotzymAg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj_o_2z8LWSAxWAAHkGHSKuHIMQyO0OKAF6BAhAEAY  always used an isolation pad , prefer  the dense , multi  shallow holed types , add that to the  pull hitch under trans extension , wedge it in there  , make up a  holding  connection .  that will consistently  MINIMISE the loading to that  TRANS CASTING  , this type of pad also cuts easily  with a  recip saw .  probably pick up odd  piece at  H/D  cutting area . happy for you , pete

[Handy Don 15,696]

I replaced the diaphragm in a K181 fuel pump that was leaking. This pump has a lever, not a differential pressure pulse.

After planing the body halves to flat, making sure the check valves are clean and working properly, inserting the return spring, latching the diaphragm actuator shaft to the lever, and assuring that the inlet and outlet are correctly oriented, there is one subtle but critical step--scrunching the diaphragm.

The too-wide seeming holes are correct. “Scrunch” the diaphragm to get the body screws through the holes. This takes a little dexterity and holding the pump lever in its full “up” position is the way to do it (it pulls the diaphragm down).

Here are shots of the scrunched diaphragm before and after tightening the body screws a couple of turns each in a criss-cross sequence until they are firmly snugged. Do not overtighten, as this can warp the faces of the body halves. 

 

I clean off the inlet and outlet with a wipe and then test by mouth (NOT with compressed air!)

- blowing in the inlet with the outlet open--air passes through as both check valves will open

- blowing in the inlet with the outlet plugged -- no air should pass through (listen carefully)

- blowing in the outlet -- no air should pass through as both check valves should stay closed (listen carefully)

 

  

 

Edited 22 hours ago by Handy Don

[peter lena 9,671]

@Handy Don  , interesting  views of that  rubber breakdown , been adding  STA BIL  to all my fuels for years , ounce or two  every top off , every fuel filter is clean / clear  , at tank and carb , also  have a flue check valve  , close to carb , with see thru  fuel rated hose . very often refer to REPEDITIVE  ISSUES , and kill / stop them , will not go back  to same set up , I don't  suggest  something  that has not  proven to be  solidly  reliable for me .  also have CARBOLE  ELECTRIC pumps , very  solid / reliable . really like lever / hitch set ups , for  modification , heim joints and spring assist  , lubricate , to assist  spring pull , that is so easy / simple , just do it  , most of the stuff I see is like a hack saw on rust , what could you possibly do  ?  how about a frame length  ,  5/16  steel brake line , for a main  tank to carb fuel line ?  eliminate all that  fuel hose break down , EXPERIMENT , paint it red / black , it disappears pete   

[Bill D 2,554]

On 1/29/2026 at 3:20 PM, CD Long Jr said:

Not a darn thing, it's too cold, BUT, with the advice of 2 members I consider my mentors, I bought a 416H for $400 and the front blade rear axle bracket for $40. @ 55lb wheel weights for $50 & 2 smaller Sears lawn tractor weights & chains for $55. Only issues with the 416His the seat strut. screw missing from fuel pump & hydro creeps. Now I need ideas how to mount the smaller weights on the draw bar. Is something missing from the parking brake lock lever. Seems awfully short? Ordered the missing seat bracket.

Beautiful machine.  How many hours on it?  I have 2 416H's and a 416-8.  The 416H is one of my favorite tractors.  I add foot pedals to all of mine.  I'd recommend checking and cleaning the 9 pin connector and running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter to the positive terminal of the voltage regulator/rectifier.  This takes most of the load off the 9 pin to keep it from burning up.

[CD Long Jr 162]

10 hours ago, Bill D said:

Beautiful machine.  How many hours on it?  I have 2 416H's and a 416-8.  The 416H is one of my favorite tractors.  I add foot pedals to all of mine.  I'd recommend checking and cleaning the 9 pin connector and running an extra wire from the battery positive on the starter to the positive terminal of the voltage regulator/rectifier.  This takes most of the load off the 9 pin to keep it from burning up.

613 hours. 

[Bill D 2,554]

2 hours ago, CD Long Jr said:

613 hours. 

Excellent.  A steal for $400.  The P216 is a great engine when properly maintained.