551 Suburban Resto...

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

22 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

That's not the worst price. When I was searching for them found crazy prices. Then found that thread on them and how to replace the diode. 

These charging systems leave a bit to be desired. A guy could adapt a generic rectifier/regulator to these motors but in my stupid OCD analness to stay orginal. 

Just make sure they are electrically speced the same as the orginals. Or close to it. 

Keeping mind you may only need one. Output voltage depends on the RPM and condition of the stator. 

I put a voltmeter on the 502 to monitor the voltage and if it got too high just flipped on the bug eyes. So much for orginal but no cooked batteries. 

they are supposed to be 400v .5amp and from what Ive gathered is what they came with 

[WHX?? 55,086]

1 hour ago, sqrlgtr said:

.5amp

Just seems that would be a little small given it's a 3 amp system. Save Old Iron's response in that other thread kinda explains it. Trouble is if they go out or over charge one has no way of knowing it until a dead or cooked battery. All the techies that come thru here had one or both toasted. Its rare that they get shorted out. more common is grounded and open up.  An  idea would be to get one of those little digital voltmeters from the jungle for monitoring. Hide it up in a inconspicuous place if the original thing bothers ya. 

Keep us posted on what your DMM says once you get that far. 

[Pullstart 68,899]

4 hours ago, squonk said:

Same internal design but the Snow plow relay (Solenoid) is supposed to be "Continuous Duty" to handle the long " on time " during operation

 

Perfect!  It’s a hybrid tecky, guaranteed to get you onto the trailer!

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Keep us posted on what your DMM says once you get that far. 

Will do

I did get a chance to take carb off and get it in the Berrymans cleaner. Check out the one pic that has nothes and rich and lean wrote on carb body above bowl ???? Also left one of the most important tool from my toolbox in pic so all u old farts dont feel so bad.

Edited January 23 by sqrlgtr

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

 

I noticed on this parts diagram it shows a gasket part #1(looks like a fiber washer?) on outside of bowl under main jet needle fitting and one inside of bowl between bowl and carb top. The one I have did not have the one inside the bowl does anyone know fer sure if it supposed to or not?

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

Ok Wheel Horse nerds I mean Guru's. Check my math on these diodes I assume I need these oriented to flow toward battery and not to mag alternator, correct?  I got carb back on and runs great. Thought I would go ahhead and put a battery on her and see how that worked out. Keep in mind I have never seen this thing turn over with a battery before but it rung its tail and fired right up but smoked one/both of the diodes came home and ate a samwhich and it just dawned on me I might have put the diodes in backwards  . 

[wallfish 19,332]

2 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

I need these oriented to flow toward battery

Correct

[Handy Don 15,956]

5 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

t just dawned on me I might have put the diodes in backwards 

Ok. 

I’m assuming you were able to start the engine using the battery.

Once the engine is turning, the two wires from the stator start having AC voltage/current. They go to the diode bridge/rectifier which converts the AC to DC. The output flows to the battery “+” to commence re-charging the battery. The diodes in the bridge are supposed to be more than strong enough to do two things without damage: 1) block current from flowing in the wrong direction (i.e. allowing the battery to discharge instead of charge), and 2) allow the charging current through.

 

If BOTH diodes were “reversed", they would drain the battery as the engine turned instead of charging it. 

If only ONE diode is reversed, however, charging current from the stator is blocked.

 

In no normal situation will starting or running the engine cause a diode to “burn out"

Edited 2 hours ago by Handy Don

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Ok. 

I’m assuming you were able to start the engine using the battery.

yes

 

6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

ONE diode must be wired to flow toward the battery and one wired to flow away from the battery. 

I don't think this is the way it is wired up. I am going by the schematic I have posted in above post and believe that's the way it is wired up at the moment but had to quit before I really got to check everything good before I left. I was under the assumption that both diodes charged battery, but I am by no means an authority. The battery cable did spark when I unhooked indicating going to ground so IDK what I've got yet .

[Handy Don 15,956]

Test the diodes with an ohm setting on the multi-meter as others suggested--often labeled with the Ω symbol.

If the diode:

1. has the same reading in both directions (i.e. switching ends either the test prob), it has failed.

2. has no resistance in one direction and lots in the other, it is probably good.

 

For a tested good diode, put the end which had the black (negative or common) test probe during the test having “no resistance” reading toward the battery

 

Edited 2 hours ago by Handy Don

[sqrlgtr 2,182]

30 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

For a tested good diode, put the end which had the black (negative or common) test probe during the test having “no resistance” reading toward the battery

I thought that's what I had done but may have put them in bass ackwards. I should have checked them again before installing them but I didn't .