Battery/Starter Crimp Tool

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

Looking to get a crimper for making battery and starter cables. Mainly for 8 ,6, and 4 Gauge wire/lugs. I hate not being able to find the correct length and or wrong size lug cables . I think I would rather have the "plier" type but not ashamed to use a hammer . What y'all recommend?

[ebinmaine 76,466]

I bought the hammer type specifically because the copper lugs I am using for the ends are heavy duty. I have better than average grip strength and could have gone with the flyer type just as easily I guess.

 

Couple things to note on the hammer type.

 

It's designed to be bolted down and I choose not to do that so I have to be prepared for it to jump back up every time I hit it.

 

If you choose to go the hammer type and if you choose to bolt it down, be very selective about where you put it. My experience shows me that you definitely want to mount it on top of a workbench post. I personally, use it on the concrete floor only.

[Handy Don 15,593]

I’m not opposed to either the pincer or hammer style, but I’ve gone to the soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times I need to make new heavy cables. 

 

And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables. 

Edited yesterday at 02:32 PM by Handy Don

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,398]

I'm gonna follow along on this because I've been wanting to get a battery cable setup for a long time and just never pulled the trigger. 

[ri702bill 10,947]

My Son & I have had good success using the HFT hand held Hydraulic Lug Crimper. Just remember to put the shrink tubing on first!!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,917]

I open up a flaring bar and lay the terminal in the appropriate slot. Hit the terminal with a blunt chisel and hammer.

[Achto 30,427]

At work I use a hydraulic crimper.

 

For at home I bought a set of these and used a grinder to round off the cutting edge. Works great & low price. 

 

https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/fastener-accessories/tool-shop-reg-nut-splitter-2-piece/ts-dg-2ns/p-1642874299975476-c-19360.htm

Edited yesterday at 03:28 PM by Achto

[ebinmaine 76,466]

2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times

 

 

Just as a point of information for those reading this thread. The way you stated that sentence is actually very important.

 

As a general rule it is not recommended to use solder on a joint that will experience vibration.

 

Because of your limited use and relative decent usage area I don't see it being an issue for you.

With our tractors being used on our rough twisted uneven terrain I would not use a soldered connection.

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

Thanks for all the input and suggestions. Looking hard at the HFT hydraulic unit with a couple coupons I think it will be pretty competitively priced with the pincher type. The hammer type would probably be cheapest and work just as well. Got to make a trip to Dr today and HFT is just up road from Hospital so will try and check out there hydraulic unit this evening.

[Bar Nuthin 2,036]

Santa Claus dropped this set off for me, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD2MGBZV/?coliid=I2OHFXC6N18XC2&colid=E9BKT8EPBLKD&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Handy Don 15,593]

49 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

As a general rule it is not recommended to use solder on a joint that will experience vibration.

 

Hmmm. Have you seen the method that uses a plug of solder melted Into a closed-end terminator lug? The next to last step is to mechanically crimp it (I use a bench vise). Then the shrink tube. 

The solder eliminates any chance of moisture or other contamination becoming trapped inside the connector, provides outstanding electrical contact, and cushions the wire strands for the crimp step. 

[ebinmaine 76,466]

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

Hmmm. Have you seen the method that uses a plug of solder melted Into a closed-end terminator lug? The next to last step is to mechanically crimp it (I use a bench vise). Then the shrink tube. 

The solder eliminates any chance of moisture or other contamination becoming trapped inside the connector, provides outstanding electrical contact,

 

 

I like this idea. And I used to do it for that reason.

1 minute ago, Handy Don said:

 

 

 

I stopped because I had one or two connections go bad but I don't recall how...

 

Then I got reading on the interwebs and discovered that a lot of people that use machines in a high vibration environment do not recommend the soldering because it causes the connection to be too strong IN the solder and more brittle right at the edge.

Combine that with changes in heat that some solders need to melt and there can be tempering issues.

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

Pulled the trigger on this one from HFT. Was surprised how many dies came with it. Crimps 14 to 0 gauge  Will be proud to be able to make my own cables. I hate haveing extra long cabels and to big ol lug holes when not needed and has to be easier on electrical systems.

[Handy Don 15,593]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Then I got reading on the interwebs and discovered that a lot of people that use machines in a high vibration environment do not recommend the soldering because it causes the connection to be too strong IN the solder and more brittle right at the edge.

Combine that with changes in heat that some solders need to melt and there can be tempering issues.

Yes, I can definitely see how wire in a cable allowed to vibrate at a soldered connection could become brittle with repeated cable flexes. I guess I’ve had no issues because of my routing which moves the flex away from the terminator and the multiple layers of shrink tube that stiffen the point where the cable enters the terminator. 

Edited yesterday at 07:31 PM by Handy Don

[WHX?? 53,697]

4 hours ago, Achto said:

At work I use a hydraulic crimper.

 

For at home I bought a set of these and used a grinder to round off the cutting edge. Works great 

 

Ahhh the nut cracker suit...

I just always ground off that lilttle flare &  soldered & shrink with no issues so far. If I need a nice set for a cherry resto I just put in a job order at Dan's work. 

 

5 hours ago, Handy Don said:

jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables.

Trolling motor wire works good too... very flexible. 

They say many small conductors carry current better as the electron flow is greatest on the perimeter of the conductor. 

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

24 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

If I need a nice set for a cherry resto I just put in a job order at Dan's work. 

Good to have friends in low places 

[wallfish 18,852]

I ground just the tips of my bolt cutter for crimping those lugs. The tip of the cutting edges are never really used for cutting anything anyway so now it's a dual use tool. 

[WHX?? 53,697]

and this is why the eyecrometer comes out with the BFH... 

[ineedanother 1,829]

2 hours ago, sqrlgtr said:

Pulled the trigger on this one from HFT. Was surprised how many dies came with it. Crimps 14 to 0 gauge  Will be proud to be able to make my own cables. I hate haveing extra long cabels and to big ol lug holes when not needed and has to be easier on electrical systems.

I did the same, and with the "Pittsburgh" cable cutters as well. My next step will be to fashion some sort of clamp for my vise or something so it can be stationary. It's a bit unwieldy when just hand-held managing the cable and lug.

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

2 minutes ago, ineedanother said:

My next step will be to fashion some sort of clamp for my vise or something so it can be stationary. It's a bit unwieldy when just hand-held managing the cable and lug.

Hadn't thought about that, I havent had a chance to try it out yet. I figured it couldn't be any more cumbersome than the plier type. Maybe mount it to a block of wood first then put it in vise , probably use a set of soft jaws in vise and hold it by the lower handle, just thinking out loud here? I will find out in a day or two .

[WHX?? 53,697]

Woulda thought it woulda been three times this... 

[sqrlgtr 1,764]

12 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Woulda thought it woulda been three times this...

yeah me too, throw in a coupon are two gets down there pretty sensible. 16000psi of pure crimping fury.

Edited 22 hours ago by sqrlgtr

[EB-80/8inPA 1,947]

7 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

 

Santa Claus dropped this set off for me, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet

 

That’s the exact same set I got off the jungle site.  No complaints.  But I do regret not buying a bucket full of cables selling dirt cheap when a local old timey sole proprietor went out of business.  Copper cable has become ludicrously expensive. 

 

10 hours ago, Handy Don said:

 

And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables

Absolutely!  Or scavenge the bone yard for battery cables to cut to size, but I bet those are up in price, too.

[Racinbob 12,501]

I've always just used crosbys whenever I use wire rope but it just isn't a 'clean' look so a couple days ago I picked up a swaging tool and some ferrels. It never even crossed my mind until I saw this thread this morning. 

 

 

Just might do it, huh guys? I've always done whatever seemed appropriate at the time when it comes to the larger wire terminals. I'm thinking that if this can crimp wire cable ferrels with the strength they do it will be fine on electrical connectors. I've got some speer-menting to do. 

[pfrederi 19,447]

23 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

I bought the hammer type specifically because the copper lugs I am using for the ends are heavy duty. I have better than average grip strength and could have gone with the flyer type just as easily I guess.

 

Couple things to note on the hammer type.

 

It's designed to be bolted down and I choose not to do that so I have to be prepared for it to jump back up every time I hit it.

 

If you choose to go the hammer type and if you choose to bolt it down, be very selective about where you put it. My experience shows me that you definitely want to mount it on top of a workbench post. I personally, use it on the concrete floor only.

 

 

I use one of those hammer type but I put it lying down in my vice (piece of wood to support it up to the jaws).Get the lug in, lightly tighten the vice to hold it, then put the cable in and Tighten the vice