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RoubaixRider

Advice and opinions…shortening front spindles

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RoubaixRider

So, 

with my C1 60 restoration, I needed to replace the front rims because the old ones had some cracking issues and internal corrosion. I ordered a set of 3.75 inch with rims from ME Miller. They are the same ones I used on my CASE 444. Going with a narrower turf tire. My question is about shortening the front spindle? I have a counter sunk hole for a sleeve locking collar (old one pictured) What do you guys think about slightly shortening those spindles? That way I can run a nice rubber cap over the finished product possibly.

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Edited by RoubaixRider
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Lee1977

I put a couple of washers and a 3/4" collar on the back side of the rims of my 1971 Raider. I used some new rims with a 3" wide hub.

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ebinmaine

I'm a fan of a wider track width. Better stability. IMHO looks better too.  

Was it me I'd get spacers for behind the wheel as mentioned above.  

 

Can you cut the spindles?  Sure.....

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wallfish
1 hour ago, RoubaixRider said:

My question is about shortening the front spindle?

Cut it off and then tap threads into the end of it for a bolt and washer to retain the bearings on the spindles, instead of a lock collar. Like the 60s tractors were done from the factory. :twocents-02cents:

 

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ebinmaine
23 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Cut it off and then tap threads into the end of it for a bolt and washer to retain the bearings on the spindles, instead of a lock collar. Like the 60s tractors were done from the factory. :twocents-02cents:

 

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My 1974 and 75 C160s have that too. Not sure when the collars and pins came on.  

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oldlineman

I would put spacers inside the wheels, never know when or if you may want to go back too original rims, not easy putting that peace back.

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RoubaixRider

Thanks a bunch for the advice guys. I definitely think that drilling and tapping threads in for retaining bolts is a better way to go than those locking collars, even with the countersunk collar hole. It’s odd… One of my spindles is threaded for a bolt and the other one is just simply drilled for a pin. It must’ve been replaced at some point.

Edited by RoubaixRider
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ri702bill

Were the OE spindles damaged from wear as the bearing inner races were spinning on the shaft when they were not supposed to??

That is due to lack of preload on the bearings. Install the collar on the inside, wheel & snap ring. Raise the axle up to allow the wheel to spin. Move the collar towards the snap ring to remove all the play & tighten it. The inner races should not now be able to spin as they are lightly pre-loaded...

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wallfish

:text-yeahthat:Bill brings up a good point about preload of the bearings and especially so if those spindles have worn spots on them.

Absolutely it's easier to just use a lock collar for spacing out smaller rim bore lengths. Sometimes necessary as I've done it purposely just so the bearings are not positioned directly in the old worn grooves of the spindles but on some good meat of them.  

3/4" ID shim washers are available and cheap to add preload when using a bolt and washer tapped into the end of the spindles. So exact precision of the cut length to the rim bore length isn't completely necessary to achieve it. Plus they are nice to have around for shimming the steering components as well for a tighter fit and less slop at the fan gear.

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kpinnc
10 minutes ago, wallfish said:

3/4" ID shim washers are available and cheap to add preload when using a bolt and washer tapped into the end of the spindles. So exact precision of the cut length to the rim bore length isn't completely necessary to achieve it. Plus they are nice to have around for shimming the steering components as well for a tighter fit and less slop at the fan gear.

 

You can also buy a pack of 3/4 machine washers at TSC that are good for taking up slop in smaller amounts. They have a much smaller OD than regular washers as well. Nice and neat when installed. 

 

 

 

Edited by kpinnc
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Ed Kennell
 

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