CD Long Jr 91 #1 Posted Saturday at 04:13 PM Mule drive tension adjuster is locked up like a bull's butt. I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth. I did get Liquid Wrench as suggested & I've used heat w/ 2 pipe wrenches. I have used my Dremel & wire brushes to clean the threads. I have filed the really bad threads, but they are past where I can turn it. Should I continue to apply Liquid Wrench today & try tomorrow or cut my losses and cut it off? I hate to give up. I can't get the drive belt through the mule pulleys. After a lot of "don't hit it any harder, I was able to get the roll pin out of the clevis and remove the belt from the PTO pulley. I'm cleaning & never seizing everything I get apart upon reassembly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,958 #2 Posted Saturday at 04:24 PM Try using a low flame to melt some anti-seize on the threads so it runs down in. Too much heat will cook it and make things worse. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,327 #3 Posted Saturday at 04:25 PM 9 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said: Mule drive tension adjuster is locked up like a bull's butt. I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth. I did get Liquid Wrench as suggested & I've used heat w/ 2 pipe wrenches. I have used my Dremel & wire brushes to clean the threads. I have filed the really bad threads, but they are past where I can turn it. Should I continue to apply Liquid Wrench today & try tomorrow or cut my losses and cut it off? I hate to give up. I can't get the drive belt through the mule pulleys. After a lot of "don't hit it any harder, I was able to get the roll pin out of the clevis and remove the belt from the PTO pulley. I'm cleaning & never seizing everything I get apart upon reassembly. It can take days to free it, keep it wet with penetrating oil and move it as you apply. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 44,022 #4 Posted Saturday at 04:33 PM 18 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said: . I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth. Great, keep working and soaking it. You will win the battle. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,879 #5 Posted Saturday at 04:49 PM Yup, patience... By the looks of it, it is time to remove the hexnut and guard to get a better understanding of the idler pulley's bearings. Note where each spacer goes - they are not the same... 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,383 #6 Posted Saturday at 05:16 PM Dont forget to chase those threads when its free. You will get it!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,879 #7 Posted Saturday at 05:22 PM 5 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said: Dont forget to chase those threads On both items... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 8,437 #8 Posted Saturday at 05:43 PM 1 hour ago, lynnmor said: It can take days to free it, keep it wet with penetrating oil and move it as you apply. The rust had a long time to form - it will take some time to break things loose. Mild heating will be your friend. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 16,442 #9 Posted Saturday at 09:28 PM Looks like a great electrolysis project to me. Youtube and this site have many examples for you to follow. It's much easier to just let the process break it all up. You may not be able to salvage the bearings in the pulleys but will likely save the rest. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,624 #10 Posted Sunday at 12:01 AM @CD Long Jr waiting for you to get there , on the mule drive set up ! done this , multi stage problem , bearing lubrication failure , eliminate the rusted trunnion and replace with a heim joint . every phase of that , needs help , believe it or not when done it works seamlessly, every related bearing regularly fails due to the wrong lubricant , let me know I can walk you thru it , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,624 #11 Posted Sunday at 09:45 PM @CD Long Jr bingo ! that mule drive has a lot going on , and its a regular failure area , # 1 , the related , 6203 3/4 )2RSC3 BEARINGS , regularly fail do to wrong original lubricant , bearing whine and vibration do to lubricant failure , typically all the bearings , incld , mower deck spindles , as well as mule drive bearings , have found , a removal of wide bearing side grease shield , with a small flat putty or flat screwdriver , be very easy on the seals , they usually pop right out , wipe out and carb clean , original grease , lucas x tra hd green chassis grease , walmart $7 , 550 deg flash rated , polyurea ,anti sling is what you want in EVERY RELATED BEARING , no noise or whine, deck and mule drive bearings , lay out mule drive , and washers ,very important , has to go back same way , once you take off belt guard , the belt is free, note flat and v drive pulleys , same return .set up . having done this a number of times , as well as spindles , I know the routine. do not trust original grease anywhere , those bearings are very popular in CIELING FANS , thats why they fail , right size , shape , BUT WRONG LUBRICANT ! never had noise or failure with that lucas grease , my decks turn by hand at engine mule drive belt . get a schematic of the mule drive , to show you how its set up . that pto lever , engages , needle bearings in the inner cone area ,sealed outer bearing , when its setup right , its very smooth and easy in action. this engages 6 more spindle bearings , same lubrication senero . my first picture , of enhanced pto lever start . also helps function and engagement , was originally very sloppy and at best awkward, none of this is in the book , as far as detailing goes . thats why I did it , still works like the day I finished it , do not build in a repetitive failure . typically refer to what I do / use , because its been failure free for me , definitely is not in the book , don't like repetitive failures , ask away , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 63,503 #12 Posted yesterday at 12:11 AM I already posted this on your other thread, put the mule drive back on the tractor and use the tractor's weight to help hold it while you turn the pipe wrench with an extension bar for more leverage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites