Jump to content
CD Long Jr

Mule drive issues

Recommended Posts

CD Long Jr

Mule drive tension adjuster is locked up like a bull's butt. I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth. I did get Liquid Wrench as suggested & I've used heat w/ 2 pipe wrenches. I have used my Dremel & wire brushes to clean the threads. I have filed the really bad threads, but they are past where I can turn it. Should I continue to apply Liquid Wrench today & try tomorrow or cut my losses and cut it off? I hate to give up. I can't get the drive belt through the mule pulleys. After a lot of "don't hit it any harder, I was able to get the roll pin out of the clevis and remove the belt from the PTO pulley. I'm cleaning & never seizing everything I get apart upon reassembly.

Mule tension adjuster threads.jpg

Mule drive belt stuck.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
adsm08

Try using a low flame to melt some anti-seize on the threads so it runs down in. Too much heat will cook it and make things worse.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lynnmor
9 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

Mule drive tension adjuster is locked up like a bull's butt. I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth. I did get Liquid Wrench as suggested & I've used heat w/ 2 pipe wrenches. I have used my Dremel & wire brushes to clean the threads. I have filed the really bad threads, but they are past where I can turn it. Should I continue to apply Liquid Wrench today & try tomorrow or cut my losses and cut it off? I hate to give up. I can't get the drive belt through the mule pulleys. After a lot of "don't hit it any harder, I was able to get the roll pin out of the clevis and remove the belt from the PTO pulley. I'm cleaning & never seizing everything I get apart upon reassembly.

 

 

It can take days to free it, keep it wet with penetrating oil and move it as you apply.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell
18 minutes ago, CD Long Jr said:

. I have managed to move it 1 full revolution back & forth.

Great, keep working and soaking it. You will win the battle.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill

Yup, patience... By the looks of it, it is time to remove the hexnut and guard to get a better understanding of the idler pulley's bearings. Note where each spacer goes - they are not the same...

  • Like 5
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Wishin4a416

Dont forget to chase those threads when its free. You will get it!!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ri702bill
5 minutes ago, Wishin4a416 said:

Dont forget to chase those threads

On both items...

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8ntruck
1 hour ago, lynnmor said:

 

It can take days to free it, keep it wet with penetrating oil and move it as you apply.

The rust had a long time to form - it will take some time to break things loose.  Mild heating will be your friend.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc

Looks like a great electrolysis project to me. 

 

Youtube and this site have many examples for you to follow. It's much easier to just let the process break it all up. You may not be able to salvage the bearings in the pulleys but will likely save the rest. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@CD Long Jr   waiting for you to get there , on the mule drive set up !  done this , multi stage problem , bearing lubrication failure , eliminate the rusted trunnion and replace with a heim joint .  every phase of that  , needs help  , believe it or not  when done it works  seamlessly,  every related bearing regularly fails due to the wrong lubricant , let me know I can walk you thru it  , pete 

 

  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@CD Long Jr  bingo !  that mule drive has a lot going on , and its a regular failure  area , # 1 , the related , 6203  3/4 )2RSC3  BEARINGS ,  regularly fail do to wrong original lubricant  , bearing  whine  and vibration  do to  lubricant failure , typically  all the bearings , incld , mower deck spindles , as well as mule drive bearings , have found , a removal of wide bearing  side grease shield , with a small flat putty or flat screwdriver  ,  be very  easy on the seals , they usually   pop right out  , wipe out and carb clean  , original grease , lucas x tra hd green chassis grease , walmart  $7 , 550 deg  flash rated , polyurea ,anti sling is what you want in  EVERY RELATED BEARING , no noise or whine, deck and  mule drive bearings , lay out mule drive , and washers  ,very important  , has to go back same way , once you take off belt guard  , the belt  is free, note flat and v drive pulleys  , same return .set up . having done this a number of times , as well as spindles , I know the routine. do not trust original grease anywhere , those bearings are very popular in CIELING FANS , thats why  they fail , right size , shape , BUT  WRONG LUBRICANT  ! never had noise or failure  with  that lucas grease , my decks turn by hand at engine mule drive belt . get a schematic of the mule drive , to show you  how its set up . that pto lever  , engages , needle bearings in the inner cone area  ,sealed outer bearing  , when its setup right  , its very smooth  and easy  in action. this engages 6 more spindle bearings , same lubrication senero . my first picture  , of enhanced pto lever start  . also helps function and engagement , was originally  very sloppy and at best awkward, none of this is in the book , as far as detailing goes .  thats why I did it , still works like the day  I finished it , do not build in a repetitive failure . typically refer  to what I  do / use , because its been  failure free  for me , definitely is not in the book , don't like  repetitive failures , ask away , pete        

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

I already posted this on your other thread, put the mule drive back on the tractor and use the tractor's weight to help hold it while you turn the pipe wrench with an extension bar for more leverage.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...