1980 C-125 implement lifting

[Maine Red Horse 1]

New wheel horse owner. I purchased a 1980 c125 recently. It came with a mowing deck and a snowblower. It seems as though the lift lever will not actually lift the snowblower off the ground and lock in place. I purchased a new flag with spring and I bolt to attach the blower lift tube. The lift lever when pulled back will lock in its slot but then has some play and lets it drop back to the ground. Even with the lever pulled all the way back the blower is only 2-3” of the ground and won’t stay up unless I hold it back. Am I missing a part or is my lift assembly broken? It has lots of play in the entire lift assembly and seems sloppy. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,853]

I don't know why it will not stay up. Worn linkage or broken spring?

https://www.partstree.com/models/01-12k801-c-125-toro-garden-tractor-1980/lift-linkage-12/

 

Remove the flag from the tube and add 3/4" SAE flat washers to lift higher. Each 1/8" of washer changes the lift height about 1/2". You are lengthening the tube by adding washers.

[Maine Red Horse 1]

Thank you I will give the washers a try on the flag.

[Maine Red Horse 1]

[ebinmaine 75,830]

 

I'm an hour north of you in South Hiram. 

Our machines here are all older than yours.. but..  If I have any parts you can use I'd be happy to help out.  

 

 

[Handy Don 15,256]

This image of the left-side support for the mid-tractor rock shaft bushing tells me three things:

1. This tractor has seen a LOT of use in its life and was likely left out in the weather when not in use

2. The frame support for that bushing is toast and causing A LOT of the slop in your lift (it’ll need a thoughtful and careful repair)

3. The lack of proper support for the rock shaft may well be preventing the lift lever from correctly locking in its raised position

 

[Maine Red Horse 1]

Thank you ebinmaine! 
Handy Don what would be a thoughtful repair ? Could I get it aback in place and weld it back to the frame? 

[peter lena 9,567]

@Maine Red Horse  was just thinking weld in a sleeve  or bolt on a flange bearing  , also notice the fourth  picture ?  notice the upper corner of your frame ? good spot to lay in a frame length 5/16  steel  brake line , coming out  each end , plastic cap  covered  ?  eliminate all that rubber fuel line , break down , just a short run with a filter on each end , to carb and fuel tank . fuel line break down and related debris , is  very common with ethanol fuel . minimizing  regular hose , will  help that  .realise  this not your problem , but its staring  right at you  .   https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F4+weld+in+pipe+tube+flange&sca_esv=7665e27beb32286e&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AE3TifMhd0JlM9gf6FYs-wiz-serp  VVY2Jztm3C8IsKA%3A1766353391039&ei=72lIaZWTAoeqw8cP-MbcqQk&oq=3%2F4"+weld+in+pipe++tube+&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiGDMvNCIgd2VsZCBpbiBwaXBlICB0dWJlICoCCAAyBR, pete

[Handy Don 15,256]

5 hours ago, Maine Red Horse said:

Thank you ebinmaine! 
Handy Don what would be a thoughtful repair ? Could I get it aback in place and weld it back to the frame? 

This is me, with the skills, facilities, and tooling that I have--others will certainly have other approaches! 

 

Ideally, one would remove the rock shaft and then the residual bushing support for at least the left bushing and, based on close inspection, maybe the right side as well. Next weld in new ¼” plates on the inside of the hoodstand drilled to the rock shaft bushing diameter. Lastly re-assemble, replacing the bushings if indicated. 

 

HOWEVER, given the state of the rest of that tractor, I’d put at least a $1 bet the rock shaft components are solidly “nature welded” together. In that case, given how inaccessible the rock shaft is, the only way to disassemble it might be with a cutting torch.

 

So, Plan B. Loosen the clips centering the rock shaft but do not try to remove the shaft. Instead, with whatever access you can manage, carefully cut/grind away the debris of the left side bushing support. While supporting the rockshaft in its correct position, weld two separate plates to the inside of the hood stand, each having a half-circle sized for the bushing. Put one plate below and one plate above with the joint positioned slightly higher towards the rear and lower toward the front.

 

A variant on Plan B, is to buy a weldable two-piece shaft collar instead of making steel plates. Size it to just snugly clamp the end of the bushing protruding through the side of the hood stand and weld it to the hoodstand. 

 

A further option includes adding a split bushing around the rockshaft and inside the collar. 

Edited 10 minutes ago by Handy Don