zero 0 #1 Posted September 27, 2009 My 416H was shutting off on occasion and I traced the problem to a bad multi pin Moldex connector between the engine and the tower. Has any one had a similar problem and does anyone know of a source for this connector. I do not want to purchase a new harness, only the connector is faulty. Thanks for the help Zero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #2 Posted September 28, 2009 http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/whee...tor-p-1508.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 0 #3 Posted September 28, 2009 Thanks for the imformation. I have been watching this site for a while and this is my first submission. That was a quick response and I have already ordered the part. I think I will have to remove the engine to access the tower end of the harness, the lead is very short. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Zero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbradley68 1 #4 Posted September 28, 2009 Try your local Radio Shack(see link below) or similar store if one is available. You can get a 9 pin connector for $2.59 each (male and female). If the link below doesn't work just search their site for "9 position polarized connector". http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp...0connector&sr=1 Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 151 #5 Posted September 28, 2009 The RS ones only go to #18 wire. The harness use much heavier wire than that. I have done several, and there was always enough slack in the harness w/o having to remove the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,564 #6 Posted September 28, 2009 Zero, this is a very common issue with this style connector. An alternate choice to installing a new connector is just to clip the wire pairs - one pair at a time - solder and heatshrink each connection and remove the connector from the circuit entirely. If you never worked with molex connections before, its a little tricky and you can easily cause more issues in the future. If the crimps are not right on the terminals - you still have intermittent issues. If you choose to solder the crimps, the solder blob may interfere with the locking tabs on the terminals and not allow you to insert the terminals fully into the housings - further issues. If you do not have a molex crimping tool and use pliers to crimp the terminals - you may distort the terminals enough to keep them from properly fitting into the housings. And finally, these connectors live in a very harsh environment, vibration , heat , moisture, battery acid fumes, etc and they will present you with another problem during the lifetime of your tractor. Not to turn you away from your intended method to repair this issue, but there are several down sides to replacing this connector. This style of connector was certainly chosen for its low cost by the designers - not for its reliability. search for the word "molex" on this site - there will be some links to instructions on how to replace a molex connector properly. I just did this same repair on my 520H and chose the solder and heatshrink method. I believe I have successfully eliminated this area as a future source of intermittent issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 0 #7 Posted September 28, 2009 Chuck Thanks for the response. I am aware of the inherent weakness of the original Molex connectors and the problems that they can promote. I have considered both the option of making the direct connection as you advised and also looking for a suitable substitute. I made the decision to go with the offering from Eldon as time is also factor. The original lasted 14 years. I fool around a lot with military equipment, and will some time in the future encounter a suitable Mil Spec connector assy. that will replace the Moldex. That will outlast the WH! I have a lot of experience with the Moldex connectors and will be able to solder & install the pins in a suitable & workmanlike manner. I appreciate your concern for the skill level necessary and your advice is well directed for many. The connector is obviously under rated for the application as mine shows signs of melting as a result of high resistance Thanks for all the responses ZERO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,564 #8 Posted September 28, 2009 Zero, just wanted to add and may all your Molex crimps be good ones :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,564 #9 Posted September 29, 2009 If anyone is interested in general info on Molex connectors and their replacement - checkout this earlier post and the link in the post. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...t=0entry93158 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
