WHX?? 53,284 #1 Posted yesterday at 02:14 PM On one of my single purpose snow machines. Been leaking for quite awhile & I have a kit to fix it. Not sure if I want to lay the tractor up to fix it or not. I fear if oil can come out dirt & crap can get in. Is it a job to get it out and rebuild? Got a cab on it and the left side would have to come off along with the floorboards and covers. Is it a a pain to get the hoses off or can a guy do it in place? If not do the hoses have to come off at the valve or the cylinder? Trying to get some info before I tie into it. Cab discomboobled for oil change. Sure does make a mess on the under carriage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,302 #2 Posted yesterday at 02:26 PM I did one on the machine by taking out the pin and lowering it down, but the floor board and side panel was off. Taking off the clevis on the rod end can be a little of a challenge. Probably not dirt getting in since it is pressurized. Unless it is running out, lever b till spring. could wrap it in an pig mat until you get to it?? the hoses are o-ring and come out easy, 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,284 #3 Posted yesterday at 02:30 PM 1 minute ago, JoeM said: ever b till spring. If I lever b till spring I'm gonna procrastinate and put it away and do nothing ... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,284 #4 Posted yesterday at 02:33 PM 4 minutes ago, JoeM said: clevis on the rod end Guessing the clevis is screwed on the rod end? I have a extra cylinder from a parts machine guess I should play with it first maybe. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,859 #5 Posted yesterday at 03:02 PM Better get to it before someone calls you a "Sally!" Grab a roll of these and throw them under the leak. They are cheap. Fix it when it gets above 40°! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,238 #6 Posted 23 hours ago That oily grunge works exceeding well to control rust and corrosion. Several of my machines have that protection. Almost none of my equipment will ever rust out from the bottom up 2 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,232 #7 Posted 23 hours ago Does your cylinder kit include o-rings for the hose ends? You might be getting a nice oil bath from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,757 #8 Posted 22 hours ago 58 minutes ago, pfrederi said: That oily grunge works exceeding well to control rust and corrosion. Several of my machines have that protection. Almost none of my equipment will ever rust out from the bottom up The Greasy Pete patina protectant, And those spots on the floor are constant reminders to check the oil levels. 1 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horsin'round 351 #9 Posted 21 hours ago 1 hour ago, lynnmor said: Does your cylinder kit include o-rings for the hose ends? Does anyone have a size/ source for these o-rings? Could use a couple of sets. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,232 #10 Posted 21 hours ago 8 minutes ago, Horsin'round said: Does anyone have a size/ source for these o-rings? Could use a couple of sets. Thanks You have #5 ORB fittings. Read up on ORB here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,557 #11 Posted 20 hours ago 3 hours ago, WHX?? said: dirt & crap can get in. Probably not. The oil is under pressure and is getting by the rod seal, only thing outside is atmospheric pressure. And it is a horizontal application... "Cleanup in Aisle 5" !! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,238 #12 Posted 20 hours ago 30 minutes ago, lynnmor said: You have #5 ORB fittings. Read up on ORB here. Older hydros...Charger electros used ORB #5 later ones they switched to ORB #6.. #5 are 1/2NF thread #6 9/16NF O rings ore Dash# 905 and 906 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,238 #13 Posted 20 hours ago 1 hour ago, Horsin'round said: Does anyone have a size/ source for these o-rings? Could use a couple of sets. Thanks PM your address can mail you a couple you need #5 or #6 ?? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,130 #14 Posted 19 hours ago (edited) 4 hours ago, WHX?? said: Guessing the clevis is screwed on the rod end? I have a extra cylinder from a parts machine guess I should play with it first maybe. Some are screwed on and some are welded. First, though, get a good look at the rod end exit of the cylinder and be sure the end cap is held in with a spring clip. More than a few cylinders are welded together and we’d hear the “Navy" blue language all the way here on the east coast if you got into it before discovering that. I also vote for let ‘er be but set yourself some real penalty for not having it done before the Big Show! Edited 19 hours ago by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,284 #15 Posted 19 hours ago 4 hours ago, squonk said: Fix it when it gets above 40°! No excuse... - 5 today... 75 in the shop wood stove going. 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: oily grunge works exceeding well to control rust and corrosion Agreed 3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: spots on the floor Seal coat for the gravel floor in the big shed 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: Does your cylinder kit include o-rings for the hose ends? You might be getting a nice oil bath from there. You tell me I think I got the kit from you. Got a couple one for the shelf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,284 #16 Posted 18 hours ago I did tear into it but might have leaking control valve as well... more after the Packer game. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,130 #17 Posted 18 hours ago 4 minutes ago, WHX?? said: more after the Packer game. First things first, for sure! 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horsin'round 351 #18 Posted 16 hours ago 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: 4 hours ago, lynnmor said: You have #5 ORB fittings. Read up on ORB here. Older hydros...Charger electros used ORB #5 later ones they switched to ORB #6.. #5 are 1/2NF thread #6 9/16NF O rings ore Dash# 905 and 906 Which are correct for '75 and '76 c-160s, sundstrand translations. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,238 #19 Posted 16 hours ago 3 minutes ago, Horsin'round said: Which are correct for '75 and '76 c-160s, sundstrand translations. Given that some one may have replaced a cylinder I can't be sure ...I would guess #5 but you really need to check the thread count. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horsin'round 351 #20 Posted 15 hours ago The 75 has a welded cylinder, probably lost the washer when Lowell rebuilt it last summer. No plans to count threads until spring. I appreciate your efforts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,232 #21 Posted 15 hours ago 3 hours ago, WHX?? said: You tell me I think I got the kit from you. Got a couple one for the shelf. They are included, see "fitting o-rings" I didn't see our transaction after a very brief search. You should be good to go. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 53,284 #22 Posted 11 hours ago Not going to rebuild at this time. Seems the control valve is leaking quite abit so not even sure if the cylinder is. Maybe just running down on it. Maybe even a hose leaking. Going to clean it up as best can, leave the covers off and see if i can spot exactly where it is. Keep an eye on the oil level. I have a spare valve so maybe look that over and use it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,302 #23 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) If your valve spool is leaking, the lift valve has two o-rings on the spool. 5/8 od x 3/32 thick. You have to remove the internal snap ring opposite the lever and the spool pulls out that direction. It is easier to hold the valve on to get more room to get on the snap ring. I fixed a leak-r last week. l was able to remove the spool with the valve on the machine. But it did not have the onan engine it has a replacement kohler mag. Some of those valves are a devil to get off. Edited 4 hours ago by JoeM 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,232 #24 Posted 1 hour ago Looks like hoses or their o-rings. If you need to drop the valve, remove the battery and it’s tray, then you will see two holes that a skinny 7/16 socket can be lowered to the two bolts, hold the other end with an end wrench. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 2,121 #25 Posted 1 hour ago are you asking about a leak of the lower cylinder by the foot rest --- or the main valve unit inside the hoodstand? The lower cylinder is relatively easy to remove and install new O rings in it -- however the main valve unit inside the hoodstand on my C175 was brutal to remove ( i did new O rings and new hoses ) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites