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BradKahler

I Think This Group Might Be Bad For Me - Meet My New B100 Automatic

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lynnmor
11 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

 

I started it again later in this afternoon and the popping or hesitation is mostly gone but it's pretty much smoking non-stop.  I checked the spark plug, which is new, and it's definitely oily.

 

I'm assuming one of two things is wrong, stuck rings from sitting outside for two years, or worn rings.  Any suggestions on what I can try to get the rings un-stuck?  Assuming that's the problem of course.

 

Yamaha sells a product called Ring Free that might help with your problem, it is sold online at the usual places as well as marinas and snowmobile shops.  I would pour a small amount down the spark plug hole and let it set for a day or two, then add some to your fuel.   Also check to see if your crankcase breather is functioning correctly.

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BradKahler
37 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

Yamaha sells a product called Ring Free that might help with your problem, it is sold online at the usual places as well as marinas and snowmobile shops.  I would pour a small amount down the spark plug hole and let it set for a day or two, then add some to your

fuel.   Also check to see if your crankcase breather is functioning correctly.

 

I'll look into Ring Free, thanks.

 

It didn't even dawn on me that the crankcase breather could be an issue.  This thing was covered with mud dabbers and other creatures both large and small.  I'll check it tomorrow.  Thanks!

Edited by BradKahler

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sqrlgtr
3 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

 

I look into Ring Free, thanks.

 

It didn't even dawn on me that the crankcase breather could be an issue.  This thing was covered with mud dabbers and other creatures both large and small.  I'll check it tomorrow.  Thanks!

Had a 310-8 that smoked like that but ran like a top and mowed with it for a few years like that. I did have to keep an eye on the oil though. Rings may be stuck or just worn, mine had a broke ring :D. Hope yours will straighten out with the ring free:handgestures-thumbupright:.

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BradKahler

Now that the engine is at least running (and smoking like a freight train!) I think I can now test the hydro drive.  The place I bought it from said it "came to us with transmission problems".  Looking at the oil on the dipstick, it's clean and it's full.  I don't know for certain but my guess is the filter is original or at least predates the shop that was working on it.

 

Looking at the parts list for the B100 Automatic, it lists a 7478 v-belt which equates to a 5/8" x 84" belt.  Looking at the belt that is currently on the mower, it is a 5L860 which is a 5/8" x 86" belt.  This makes me wonder if the "transmission problems" might actually be a belt problem?  Could I be that lucky where just changing to a 7478 belt will fix the transmission problems :confusion-scratchheadblue:

 

20251201_140622x.jpg.41e9f01af96b55aaecb6ac11701d5b52.jpg

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c-series don

Just jumped in on this thread and not sure if it’s been mentioned, but you might want to check to make sure that the tow valve is closed too. Even if it is I’d give it a shot of penetrating oil to keep it operational. 

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Handy Don
2 hours ago, BradKahler said:

 

20251201_140622x.jpg.41e9f01af96b55aaecb6ac11701d5b52.jpg

That belt is definitely too loose. From length or wear or too-low spring tension I cannot tell. 

The “kinda” white tensioner/idler pulley should be pressing down on the belt to hold it snug. Confirm that the spring that applies the tension to that pulley is in place functioning. It is a pretty strong spring between the tensioner lever and a hole in a web cast into the transaxle (the web braces the axle housing to the main body)

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Bill D
2 hours ago, BradKahler said:

Now that the engine is at least running (and smoking like a freight train!) I think I can now test the hydro drive.  The place I bought it from said it "came to us with transmission problems".  Looking at the oil on the dipstick, it's clean and it's full.  I don't know for certain but my guess is the filter is original or at least predates the shop that was working on it.

 

Looking at the parts list for the B100 Automatic, it lists a 7478 v-belt which equates to a 5/8" x 84" belt.  Looking at the belt that is currently on the mower, it is a 5L860 which is a 5/8" x 86" belt.  This makes me wonder if the "transmission problems" might actually be a belt problem?  Could I be that lucky where just changing to a 7478 belt will fix the transmission problems :confusion-scratchheadblue:

 

20251201_140622x.jpg.41e9f01af96b55aaecb6ac11701d5b52.jpg

I'd hit the local TSC  and see if they have an 84" belt.  Also, that idler pulley appears to be the wrong size.  Maybe someone here knows for sure. 

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BradKahler
2 hours ago, c-series don said:

Just jumped in on this thread and not sure if it’s been mentioned, but you might want to check to make sure that the tow valve is closed too. Even if it is I’d give it a shot of penetrating oil to keep it operational. 

 

I found out about the tow valve when I was trying to roll it off the trailer.  I can report that it works like it's supposed to.

 

Thanks 😊 

 

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BradKahler
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

That belt is definitely too loose. From length or wear or too-low spring tension I cannot tell. 

The “kinda” white tensioner/idler pulley should be pressing down on the belt to hold it snug. Confirm that the spring that applies the tension to that pulley is in place functioning. It is a pretty strong spring between the tensioner lever and a hole in a web cast into the transaxle (the web braces the axle housing to the main body)

 

I can confirm the spring is present and definitely strong.  Since the belt is too long I'll go ahead and replace it and we'll see what the belt tension looks like.

 

In this application is it necessary to buy a Toro belt, or will a generic 5/8" x 84" belt work?  

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pfrederi

I use generic belts on hydros.  

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BradKahler

Since all four tires are flat there is no chance I could try to test drive it any time soon.  I plan on putting the rear axle on jack stands so the rear wheels are off the ground.  

 

I'm thinking even with the belt being to long I should still be able to test the hydro unit to see if it functions, i.e. forward, reverse, stopping etc.

 

Am I missing something where that would a bad idea?

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, BradKahler said:

Am I missing something where that would a bad idea?

Oil level in the transaxle is good? Filter on and snug?

I'm sure you’ll make sure that the tractor won’t drop off the jackstands from vibration or other movements so you’ll be fine. 

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BradKahler
11 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Oil level in the transaxle is good? Filter on and snug?

 

Yep and yep.

 

11 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'm sure you’ll make sure that the tractor won’t drop off the jackstands from vibration or other movements so you’ll be fine. 

 

Good point on the vibration.   I think of everything I've seen so far on these wheel horses is how much they vibrate.  

 

I can always hang the rear of the tractor from my gantry crane.   I will be using 6-ton jack stands so I should be ok.

 

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Handy Don
20 minutes ago, BradKahler said:

Good point on the vibration.   I think of everything I've seen so far on these wheel horses is how much they vibrate. 

I was thinking more of flat tires likely not evenly weighted and giving the tractor a good shake

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BradKahler
7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I was thinking more of flat tires likely not evenly weighted and giving the tractor a good shake

 

Yeah, I can see that happening.   I think I'll remove the rear wheels.  

 

Thanks

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BradKahler

I should be getting the v-belt later today so I'm hoping that sometime tomorrow I will be able to run the engine with belt attached to see if/how the hydro drive works. 

 

I still haven't done anything to try and resolve the engine smoking, that will probably happen this weekend.  However, the engine smoking got me to thinking....which is a bad thing :)

 

About 15 years ago I bought a Struck mini dozer and it came with Kohler K341AQS-71221a engine installed.  It's my understanding it came from a mid 70s Cub Cadet.  I was told the engine was running when I bought the dozer but I've never tried to run it.  The engine is just too big for the dozer so I pulled it and sat it on a shelf.  Last night was when I actually remembered I still had the engine.  This all leads to my question, other than the oil pan being wrong, is there any reason this K341 wouldn't fit in the B100 chassis? 

 

Prior to deciding not to use the engine in the dozer, I bought an oil pan off of ebay (see last picture) to replace the existing oil pan.  I'm not 100% certain the oil pan picture matches what I bought, I need to find it because it's buried somewhere in my shop.

 

Thoughts anyone?

 

IMG_1086x.jpg.04be8647b8ccc8f1e88ae2db69959d86.jpg

 

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1892092313_k341oilpan.jpg.dd9d404b51fb3c0d60e7dba15d1e1a02.jpg

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Handy Don

One thing that sets WH Kohler build specs apart is that they included bearings able to handle the axial thrust that comes from the PTO pressing inward toward the block. Many other builds had bearings suitable for only belt- or chain-connected loads.  Cubs that I’ve seen had either direct shaft drive or belt connections--nothing causing significant axial load on the engine. 

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BradKahler
14 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

One thing that sets WH Kohler build specs apart is that they included bearings able to handle the axial thrust that comes from the PTO pressing inward toward the block.Many other builds had bearings suitable for only belt- or chain-connected loads.  Cubs that I’ve

seen had either direct shaft drive or belt connections--nothing causing significant axial load on the engine. 

 

That's good information to have.  Am I correct in assuming the axial load comes from the PTO pulley being pressed against the friction disk?

 

If I do consider going down this path, there would likely be two reasons for a change.  The first is the existing 8hp Kohler needs a rebuild, and second, I could use a strong tractor for pulling.  In the near future I'm going to be dealing with a lot of felled trees and a lot of pulled out of the ground fence posts.  All of which will need to be moved to a more central location.  This sort of work wouldn't make use of a PTO.  

 

Thinking about it, I guess another reason for a possible engine change would be because the B100 8-speed that I recently got, sat for an untold number of years with no cover on the open upright exhaust pipe.  That engine might be toast as well.  It's possible I may have two B100 tractors in need of engines and or engine rebuilds :(

 

Thanks for the info.

 

 

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