Larry Chamberlain 22 #1 Posted Wednesday at 09:19 PM I acquired the 417-a last year guy said just needed a set a point cause he robbed them for his other 417 I said thats fine installed new ones last year I finally got the new dorman 4 post switch installed I have power to the coil and to the points but no spark turns over just fine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,173 #2 Posted Wednesday at 09:32 PM Points opening and closing with the correct gap? Is there resistance across the points? Condenser shorted? Does the coil have the correct ohm readings? Everything else is just basic wiring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #3 Posted Wednesday at 09:50 PM I set the points last year and they are opeing and closing i dont have a ohm meter i will check out the condenser i do have another one of those Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,721 #4 Posted Wednesday at 11:39 PM 2 hours ago, Larry Chamberlain said: I have power to the coil and to the points What do mean by having power "to the points" The points are on the ground side of the ignition circuit. Also, new points out of the box need to have the contact surfaces cleaned as they are coated from the factory so they don't oxidize in the package. Make sure those surfaces are clean. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,808 #5 Posted Wednesday at 11:45 PM You should have battery voltage at the points when they are open. You should have 0 volts at the points when they are closed. If you do not get the 0 volts the points are not making contact when closed. Clean the contacts. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,772 #6 Posted yesterday at 12:06 AM With the transmission in neutral, parking brake set, key in the off position, and the points cleaned disconnect the condenser. Now turn the ignition to the start position and check for spark. If the coil and points are good you should have spark. If you now have spark the condenser was the culprit. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,173 #7 Posted yesterday at 12:16 AM Download the Kohler manual here, see pages 29-33. Harbor Freight is 19 miles from you, buy a multimeter that will read in the ranges stated in the manual. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #8 Posted yesterday at 05:53 PM So im testing stuff with a multimeter and when the key is in the on position i have 12v to both side of the coil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,808 #9 Posted yesterday at 06:47 PM Remove the spark plugs so the engine is easier to turn over slowly by hand. Hook your meter to the coil (-) terminal with the key in the run position. Rotate the engine and when the points open the voltage should go to 12 volts. When the points close the voltage should go to 0 volts. If it does not go to 0 volts the point contacts are either not closing or they are not making electrical contact when closed. It is that switching of voltage that causes the coil to fire the plugs. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #10 Posted yesterday at 08:21 PM I unhooked the points all together I have 12v on the + and the - with the key in the on position not the start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,808 #11 Posted yesterday at 08:44 PM That is what you should have with the point wire disconnected. If you ground that wire going to the points the (-) coil terminal will go to 0 volts. That is what the points do for you if working correctly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,974 #12 Posted yesterday at 08:45 PM (edited) 20 hours ago, Larry Chamberlain said: I unhooked the points all together I have 12v on the + and the - with the key in the on position not the start This is correct when the points are not installed and closed. It should remain true with the ignition in START while the points are not installed. It can be confusing, instinct might suggest that it is the closing of the points that creates the spark. Actually, it is the opening of the points (i.e. breaking the electrical circuit running from the “+" terminal, through the coil, out the “-" terminal, and through the points to ground) that causes the spark! Edited 5 hours ago by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,772 #13 Posted 22 hours ago 4 hours ago, Larry Chamberlain said: I unhooked the points all together I have 12v on the + and the - with the key in the on position not the start Connect a test wire to the "-" terminal of your ignition coil, turn the key on and touch the test wire to the engine block for a couple seconds (a small spark will occur, that is normal) now pull the test wire of the block and the spark plug should fire once. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry Chamberlain 22 #14 Posted 5 hours ago Ok lol I started over reset the points I took off the condenser cleaned the points again and I have good spark at the points took spark plug out got a good ground got spark put everything back together put some starter fluid down the carb as I was cranking got it to fire now to put some fresh gas in the tank get it running and test out the hydros thanks everyone just one of those things every time I went in the garage I had a cuss word for this tractor lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,974 #15 Posted 4 hours ago 30 minutes ago, Larry Chamberlain said: every time I went in the garage I had a cuss word for this tractor lol Our tractors (and snowblowers, and chainsaws, and generators, and power washers, and chippers, et al) have heard a lot of words and they seem to take them in stride. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites