BradKahler 249 #126 Posted yesterday at 03:03 PM Like most of the country, we are expecting a fair amount of snow over the ext day and a half. I've been busy on other tasks for the last month or so, but this morning I took the time to finish installing the dozer blade on the B80. I've never plowed snow before with a tractor so it should be an interesting next few days I do have a question on the blade lift mechanism. Right now when I pull the lever all the way back, the blade will lock in place and raised off the ground by around 4" or so. I can lower the blade all the way to the ground but there doesn't seem to be anyway to be able to lock the blade height anywhere I want it. Did I possibly install something wrong? Or is this the way it's supposed to operate? Here it is, ready for the snow (Keeping the battery maintained with a float charger) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 24,385 #127 Posted 23 hours ago This knob right here on the left is what sets how low your blade will go. I always let mine just drop fully down. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #128 Posted 23 hours ago 1 minute ago, Sparky said: This knob right here on the left is what sets how low your blade will go. I always let mine just drop fully down. Ok, thanks. So technically you can limit how for down it drops, but you can't keep it from "floating". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,996 #129 Posted 22 hours ago 1 hour ago, BradKahler said: Ok, thanks. So technically you can limit how for down it drops, but you can't keep it from "floating". if you have a solid lift link you can put some down pressure just by pushing on lift handle but thats about it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #130 Posted 22 hours ago 8 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: if you have a solid lift link you can put some down pressure just by pushing on lift handle but thats about it. Yes, it's a solid link, maybe about 5" long with two pins. Thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,538 #131 Posted 21 hours ago The short link only reaches to the lift arm. You still can't apply down pressure due to the chain lifting the lift arm. You need to whip up a long link to do that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,996 #132 Posted 20 hours ago (edited) 19 minutes ago, Racinbob said: The short link only reaches to the lift arm. You still can't apply down pressure due to the chain lifting the lift arm. You need to whip up a long link to do that. I belive he has the soild link and no chain if I understood right. I just reread post and I may have misunderstood. Edited 20 hours ago by sqrlgtr 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #133 Posted 19 hours ago 1 hour ago, Racinbob said: The short link only reaches to the lift arm. You still can't apply down pressure due to the chain lifting the lift arm. You need to whip up a long link to do that. There was no chain on the tractor when I got it. There is a solid link, but it's a round bar not a flat bar as shown in the picture. I don't know if the round bar is original or if someone replaced the chain with it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,538 #134 Posted 4 hours ago (edited) Round or flat is fine. The problem with how yours is connected is that the only floating you'll have with a mower deck mounted will also move the lift arm. You need the deck to float. The longer lift link bypasses the horizontal lift arm and goes from the blade directly to the upper arm. Sometimes there's some interference with that horizontal arm when the blade is attached. It's ease to remove it for the winter or, in my case, year around. I have a tractor dedicated to the blade. Edited 4 hours ago by Racinbob 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #135 Posted 1 hour ago 2 hours ago, Racinbob said: Round or flat is fine. The problem with how yours is connected is that the only floating you'll have with a mower deck mounted will also move the lift arm. You need the deck to float. The longer lift link bypasses the horizontal lift arm and goes from the blade directly to the upper arm. Sometimes there's some interference with that horizontal arm when the blade is attached. It's ease to remove it for the winter or, in my case, year around. I have a tractor dedicated to the blade. Thanks for the clarification. Do you know if the round rod is an original Wheel Horse item or is it owner modified? This B80 did come with a mower deck although all of the spindles were frozen and it was missing the back wall of the deck. The seller told me it was mainly used for snow plowing, but it did come with the mule drive installed. However the mule drive was non-functional when I got it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,538 #136 Posted 1 hour ago I think I misled you. Looking closer at your picture it looks like the round upper rod is going through a trunnion and there's probably a nut on the end. This allows the rod to slip through the trunnion which allows the floating action. That's how my 76 B-80 came from the factory. Some years later they started using a section of chain but I don't know when. In any case you need to get around that to get down pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #137 Posted 49 minutes ago 7 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I think I misled you. Looking closer at your picture it looks like the round upper rod is going through a trunnion and there's probably a nut on the end. This allows the rod to slip through the trunnion which allows the floating action. That's how my 76 B-80 came from the factory. Some years later they started using a section of chain but I don't know when. In any case you need to get around that to get down pressure. You are correct. At first I thought it was threaded, but its not. Here is a better picture. I'll go ahead and fabricate a longer flat bar. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sqrlgtr 1,996 #138 Posted 38 minutes ago (edited) 12 minutes ago, BradKahler said: You are correct. At first I thought it was threaded, but its not. Here is a better picture. I'll go ahead and fabricate a longer flat bar. you might possibly use another nut under trunnion and effectively make it a solid link. Probably lose a 1/2" of length on round rod though. Edited 36 minutes ago by sqrlgtr 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BradKahler 249 #139 Posted 11 minutes ago 14 minutes ago, sqrlgtr said: you might possibly use another nut under trunnion and effectively make it a solid link. Probably lose a 1/2" of length on round rod though. Yep, it's a good short term fix that should get me through the weekend Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites