Work Horse 1848

[ML3 1,996]

Doing some pre snow maint/repairs on my Workhorse. Bervac all connected & working properly. Seems like when climbing even the slightest grade (my driveway is pretty flat but graded just enough to drain water) there's a noticeable loss of power. Worse with snowblower engaged. It does seem to possibly be running a bit rich so I may start by doing some carb adjustments? I know the hydro does & can take a while to really warm up. Im getting full range from the throttle. I believe with a load of snow in blower it will only make it worse.  

[ebinmaine 75,081]

Do you use non ethanol fuel?

 

Has the carb been rebuilt lately? 

 

Age of fuel lines? 

 

[ML3 1,996]

Always use ethanol free fuel. I replaced all fuel lines & filter as preventative maint. Prior owner took carb off & overhauled before he sold it to me. Starts up easily & seems to run fine but like I said definitely a noticeable loss of power with the slightest load. 

Edited November 20 by ML3

[ebinmaine 75,081]

I'd start with the carb clean. 

 

Maybe download a manual and check / adjust the governor linkage. 

[ML3 1,996]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

I'd start with the carb clean. 

 

Maybe download a manual and check / adjust the governor linkage. 

I'm kinda thinking governor issue possibly??

[ebinmaine 75,081]

4 minutes ago, ML3 said:

I'm kinda thinking governor issue possibly??

 

Sounds logical 

[Bill D 2,404]

Good compression on each cylinder?  Any signs of leaking head gaskets?  Is it firing on both cylinders?  What happens if you pull one plug wire?  Does it die or stay running? 

I've seen that engine run surprisingly well with loose heads and leaking head gaskets.  Also check for intake manifold leaks and a possible clogged exhaust.  I have one here with loose baffles in the muffler.   They can also suffer from loose valve seats like Onans.

Edited November 21 by Bill D

[Handy Don 14,901]

Some years ago on another brand mower with a B&S engine it was weak under loads. I tied a string directly to the throttle so I could give it a pull when I thought the governor shoulda been kicking in. 

Get on the hill, pull on string, throttle opens more, engine adds power.

Governor linkage was in the wrong hole on the throttle actuator. (And yeah, it was me that put it together wrong in the first place)

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,791]

Sometimes the operator manual has carburetor and governor info

 

[pfrederi 19,099]

Make sure she is running on 2 cylinders 

[ML3 1,996]

Started messing with it this morning.  Unplug right (back one towards steering column) & it stays running. Unplug left (front of tractor) & it stalls out. Both plugs appear to be firing by how the electrode appears?? Also my spark tester indicates spark at both.......

 

It definitely seems rich when running & had it backfire couple times after shut off. Guess I'll keep at it.  

 

Did notice spark plugs are mismatched so Im gonna start by trying to find the correct plugs. 

 

[pfrederi 19,099]

Hold you finger in the back plug hole while you crank engine ...Feel strong compression??? if not may be a stuck valve in back cylinder.  If you have a compression tester it is more accurate than a finger

[Bill D 2,404]

45 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Started messing with it this morning.  Unplug right (back one towards steering column) & it stays running. Unplug left (front of tractor) & it stalls out. Both plugs appear to be firing by how the electrode appears?? Also my spark tester indicates spark at both.......

 

It definitely seems rich when running & had it backfire couple times after shut off. Guess I'll keep at it.  

 

Did notice spark plugs are mismatched so Im gonna start by trying to find the correct plugs. 

 

Good place to start.  Two new plugs then repeat the test.  Champion RJ12's or equivalent. 

[ML3 1,996]

2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Hold you finger in the back plug hole while you crank engine ...Feel strong compression??? if not may be a stuck valve in back cylinder.  If you have a compression tester it is more accurate than a finger

 

No compression on back cylinder.

Great......don't really need another project. Maybe if I get lucky a stuck valve will be it 🤞 Still a lot of teardown to determine.....

[pfrederi 19,099]

5 minutes ago, ML3 said:

 

No compression on back cylinder.

Great......don't really need another project. Maybe if I get lucky a stuck valve will be it 🤞 Still a lot of teardown to determine.....

 Leak down tester available???  If not  at TDC blow some compressed air in the plug hole see if you can see, feel,hear, it coming out exhaust or carb...

Edited November 21 by pfrederi

[ML3 1,996]

6 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 Leak down tester available???  If not  at TDC blow some compressed air in the plug hole see if you can see, feel,hear, it coming out exhaust or carb...

I can probably get a leak down tester. Think theres one at my moms. Still going thru dad's tools etc since his passing in April. 

 

Im just disgusted now so I've lost interest for a bit. May just consider a complete re-power as an option.  Wanted to be able to use it this winter. Time is what I dont have much of. Finally catching up on everything I had to neglect for the 4mo my dad was sick. Helping mom with stuff at her house. She has no intention on moving. 4200 sq ft house on 5 acres is a lot of work especially for 1 person. 

[pfrederi 19,099]

Understand,,,Family comes first  and don't wear yoursrself out !!

[ML3 1,996]

Got the head off. 1st pic is how it was before turning engine over by hand.

 

Gotta now figure out where the no compression issue is coming from

 

[Gasaholic 337]

50 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Got the head off. 1st pic is how it was before turning engine over by hand.

 

Gotta now figure out where the no compression issue is coming from

 

Exhaust valve seat. Check for it being cracked  or poorly done re-seating (note the peened pin punch divots around the seat)  if the counterbore for the seat was worn it can leak around the valve seat, if the seat was not perfectly square to the valve face when it was peened in place then valve isn't seating fully - can sometimes get away with just lapping in the valve to the seat, but odds are need seat re-cut and then valve clearance adjusted (or maybe adjust valve clearance first to see if that does the trick?)  It was common for those exhaust valve seats to get loose from overheating and then they just kept running them with the loose seat which pounded away the surrounding aluminum - it's *usually* fixable but often need special tools (valve seat cutter - around $500+ for the tool kit from Neway) and/or replace the seats (perhaps local machine shop could manage it?) 

[ML3 1,996]

22 minutes ago, Gasaholic said:

Exhaust valve seat. Check for it being cracked  or poorly done re-seating (note the peened pin punch divots around the seat)  if the counterbore for the seat was worn it can leak around the valve seat, if the seat was not perfectly square to the valve face when it was peened in place then valve isn't seating fully - can sometimes get away with just lapping in the valve to the seat, but odds are need seat re-cut and then valve clearance adjusted (or maybe adjust valve clearance first to see if that does the trick?)  It was common for those exhaust valve seats to get loose from overheating and then they just kept running them with the loose seat which pounded away the surrounding aluminum - it's *usually* fixable but often need special tools (valve seat cutter - around $500+ for the tool kit from Neway) and/or replace the seats (perhaps local machine shop could manage it?) 

I saw the peen marks & figured thats where I need to start looking. Looks like its got the potential to turn into a big repair. May consider trying to find a repower option instead??? Gotta look into whats the best financial option.  

[ebinmaine 75,081]

16 minutes ago, ML3 said:

I saw the peen marks & figured thats where I need to start looking. Looks like its got the potential to turn into a big repair. May consider trying to find a repower option instead??? Gotta look into whats the best financial option.  

 

If you're looking for a near bolt in, there are some sears / craftsman rigs that use the same engine. 

Or, obviously a Kohler of either single or twin cylinder configuration. 

 

 

[ML3 1,996]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

If you're looking for a near bolt in, there are some sears / craftsman rigs that use the same engine. 

Or, obviously a Kohler of either single or twin cylinder configuration. 

 

 

Ill start to look at that option I think. Definitely gonna need to be a twin cause need the hp to run the Bervac. 

[ebinmaine 75,081]

3 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Ill start to look at that option I think. Definitely gonna need to be a twin cause need the hp to run the Bervac. 

 

An advantage to staying with a stock type engine is parts availability.  

 

 

A K341 single at 16 HP will have comparable torque to a KT17. Maybe more.

IIRC, the K341 has 25.9 lb-ft. 

The KT17 shows 23 to 25 depending on source.  

 

A Magnum 18 should be slightly higher. 

 

I have a Briggs 18 twin here in a similar tractor. Seems good but I've never truly "worked" it like I have a torque monster K341.  

 

 

[Bill D 2,404]

An M16 would be an easy swap if you can't find a good Briggs.  The electrical connections are nearly identical.  There are some Snapper and Bolens machines that use Briggs twins in addition to Craftsman tractors.  A Craftsman II,  18 HP is probably the easiest to find.  I just checked the local FBM, lots of choices.

Edited 5 hours ago by Bill D

[Bill D 2,404]

There are two brand new 18 HP Briggs twins for sale on Ebay.  Not cheap unfortunately.