RJR49 158 #1 Posted Sunday at 05:11 PM (edited) Attached is my 1975 C-160 operating smoothly. Notice the bushing i circled is not turning. But, the lift mechanism is moving. There is a Woodruff key holding it to the shaft to the bushing so thats not a surprise. On my 1977 C-160 it's the same configuration but the bushing and the lift mechanism have flats to lock them together. Apparently the mechanism worked once upon a time but I don't see how it could 20251116_113537.mp4 Edited Sunday at 09:32 PM by RJR49 Mistyped the year of the 2nd tractor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #3 Posted Sunday at 10:13 PM Back to my problem. I cut the rod to remove the assembly from the tractor, and made a brass rod to replace it. The rod is bolted to the chassis so it can't turn. A Woodruff key locks the bushing (circled in white) to the rod. The flat on the bushing locks the bushing to the assembly. So I don't tee how the fwd / rev lever can possible move! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #4 Posted yesterday at 01:15 AM This picture shows the rod & the bushing "locked up" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #5 Posted yesterday at 02:46 PM (edited) The rod that goes through from the left side (with the tab welded to it and bolted doesn't turn. The D shaped end of the friction collar (cup like) (#80) and the related D hole in the end plate of #73 hold it constant to #73. The woodruff key engages the friction cone #82 and immobilizes it as that cross shaft doesn't move. The Spring and nuts press that cone 82 into the collar 80. When you move the motion control lever the the collar #80 tries to move...the cone #82 resists (depending how tight the spring is pushing on it. The woodruff key locks the cone 82 to the shaft. Your set up seems to lock the collar 80 to the shaft it should only lock the cone 82.... EDIT: The woodruff key is only 1/2" long your slot for it looks longer. Edited yesterday at 02:52 PM by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #6 Posted yesterday at 05:19 PM Thank you very much! So, the problem is that I thought 80 & 82 were ONE piece! Mine seem to be welded together! I suspect that's the problem with the one I tried to buy as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #7 Posted yesterday at 05:54 PM Some pics note the size and location of woodruff key also the D shape on the #80 and 81 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #8 Posted yesterday at 06:04 PM Thanks again guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #9 Posted yesterday at 06:18 PM Interesting that none of your parts are corroded. The ones ive seen are corroded to the point that their welded together. Thanks again guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #10 Posted yesterday at 06:46 PM It took awhile to get this one apart and cleaned up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #11 Posted yesterday at 10:31 PM I doused the joint with Liquid Wrench and have a 12 ton press. I'm thinkingthat if I make a base to set it on and the press. It should come apart. Did you have to use heat? I've never tried that and am afraid of annealing or warping the metal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,742 #12 Posted 22 hours ago 1 hour ago, RJR49 said: I doused the joint with Liquid Wrench and have a 12 ton press. I'm thinkingthat if I make a base to set it on and the press. It should come apart. Did you have to use heat? I've never tried that and am afraid of annealing or warping the metal. I suspect it will come apart much much easier than that. A light tap with a hammer on a punch is all I've ever used and they've popped apart even when neglected for years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #13 Posted 9 hours ago Kroil some time and a whack with a hammer and punch. After you get it cleaned up make sure you do NOT apply anything to the mating surfaces of the cup and cone (80 82) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #15 Posted 7 hours ago (edited) No grease no lube....If you do that you will find you cannot get the motion control lever to stay in position. The cup and cone create drag. Edited 7 hours ago by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #16 Posted 4 hours ago I put the nut in a vise and gave it a hard tug with a long wrench. I don't think it's coming apart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #17 Posted 4 hours ago Kroil on the threaded shaft, both sides, some time and then a bit of heat (propane torch) if still needed. Don't forget the collar is threaded and has that D shape to lock it into the mechanism. Do not want to booger that up. That threaded shaft has been abused. When you do get it free you need to square up the last 1/2 inch or so. Supposed to fit a 5/8" open end wrench Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJR49 158 #18 Posted 3 hours ago I used the press to get it apart. Probably didn't need to. It came apart with one pump. I am afraid of damaging the adjustable collar so I left it along. PIA compressing the spring but it didn't take to long. The rod goes through but not smoothly. I can see a few thousands misalignment but haven't been able to get it out. I'm puttingitall back k togetherthis afternoon. Ill let you know ow how I make out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 19,031 #19 Posted 3 hours ago You really need to free up the lock nut and the collar (81 and 85) from the threaded tube. Other wise you will not be able adjust the tension on cup and cone and thus how well your motion control stays where you set it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
