Issues starting the engine

[Daniel_Heetderks 35]

I'm trying to troubleshoot my tractor not turning over when i turn the key. Ive been jumping the solenoid to start every time. I recently replaced the starter, solenoid, and ignition module, but all I get when i turn the key is a tick from the solenoid. Would this possibly be a safety switch issue? Or does the tick indicate that its a solenoid issue? I know the starter works fine, cuz I can still start it with the ole screwdriver. I'm getting confused from the mixed opinions on the youtube. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Ed Kennell 43,100]

Turn the key to on.   Then use a jumper to connect the small lug on the solenoid to the + post on the battery.  Disconnect the jumper as soon as it starts.  If it starts, the solenoid and starter are working.   

The problem is in the ignition switch and /or the wiring from the battery to the switch or wiring from the switch to the solenoid.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,736]

Wiring diagram for the GT-1100 here. Click on the tractor in the link and then select the small wiring diagram for a larger one.

 

[953 nut 62,162]

There is a 15 amp fuse and the Amp meter between the battery and your ignition switch. If the fuse Holder is in poor condition it would reduce the voltage reaching your ignition switch. Amp meters have been known to be a problem too.

[Daniel_Heetderks 35]

On 11/3/2025 at 1:42 PM, Ed Kennell said:

Turn the key to on.   Then use a jumper to connect the small lug on the solenoid to the + post on the battery.  Disconnect the jumper as soon as it starts.  If it starts, the solenoid and starter are working.   

The problem is in the ignition switch and /or the wiring from the battery to the switch or wiring from the switch to the solenoid.

I tried this, and the solenoid still ticks. I also checked my fuse, and saw that it was a  30a fuse... Can too much amperage mess up the solenoid? I put a 15a fuse in the fuse holder, and it blew.

Edited 1 hour ago by Daniel_Heetderks

[squonk 44,618]

Fuses blow because of a short. Your solenoid clicking indicates it's not the switch. The fact that you replaced the solenoid already tells me the solenoid is a bad new one or the solenoid isn't pulling in all the way. With the fuse blowing I'm leaning towards a bad coil in the solenoid. 

 

" JUST BECAUSE IT'S NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD!"

 

You need some trouble shooting skills and a volt meter. How many volts are you getting on the small terminal of the solenoid when the key is in start? What is the voltage at the battery side of the large terminal of the solenoid compared to the other large terminal with the key in start? How well is that solenoid grounded? 

[953 nut 62,162]

35 minutes ago, Daniel_Heetderks said:

I tried this, and the solenoid still ticks. I also checked my fuse, and saw that it was a  30a fuse... You think the solenoid went out due to that? I put a 15a fuse in the fuse holder, and it blew.

On 11/3/2025 at 1:03 PM, Daniel_Heetderks said:

I'm getting confused from the mixed opinions on the youtube.

Lots of bad advice out there on YouTube,         stay away from that place except for funny cat videos.

Is your battery fully charged?

Is the new solenoid connected correctly? (see picture below)

? ? ?   Had the 30 amp fuse blown?           

Replacing a 15 Amp Fuse with a 30 Amp fuse would not cause the solenoid to click.

Have you cleaned and tightened ALL electrical connectors INCLUDING GROUNDS?

Have you looked at the condition of the socket your ignition switch connects to, corrosion there or in the fuse holders could be the problem?

Have you looked at the wiring to and from the PTO switch and the Clutch Switch to be sure the connections are tight and clean?

[Daniel_Heetderks 35]

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Fuses blow because of a short. Your solenoid clicking indicates it's not the switch. The fact that you replaced the solenoid already tells me the solenoid is a bad new one or the solenoid isn't pulling in all the way. With the fuse blowing I'm leaning towards a bad coil in the solenoid. 

 

" JUST BECAUSE IT'S NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD!"

 

You need some trouble shooting skills and a volt meter. How many volts are you getting on the small terminal of the solenoid when the key is in start? What is the voltage at the battery side of the large terminal of the solenoid compared to the other large terminal with the key in start? How well is that solenoid grounded? 

I got 10v on the small terminal when i put it in start. As for the other two voltages, I wasn't 100% sure what you meant, but I tried a few different things and got 12v each time.

[squonk 44,618]

25 minutes ago, Daniel_Heetderks said:

I got 10v on the small terminal when i put it in start. As for the other two voltages, I wasn't 100% sure what you meant, but I tried a few different things and got 12v each time.

2 volts is quite a drop on that little circuit. Check the plug and wires from the switch. Also that new solenoid coil could be overdrawing the circuit causing that amount of drop and the fuse blowing. I'd get another solenoid

[Daniel_Heetderks 35]

3 minutes ago, squonk said:

2 volts is quite a drop on that little circuit. Check the plug and wires from the switch. Also that new solenoid coil could be overdrawing the circuit causing that amount of drop and the fuse blowing. I'd get another solenoid

Should I go for the oem solenoid brand? (Trombetta)