Muffler Port Stuck

[BrianX128 113]

Got a spare 16hp cheap locally. Went to swap it onto a mower that had a tired 12hp and noticed the 1" pipe is bowed real bad. I figured I'd take it out and do something else for the exhaust. Doesn't come out, I've had it glowing red and hung off a pipe wrench to the point where I'm lifting the side of the mower. I wasn't sure if I get a 2" [I think] deep well socket and put it on an impact if I could get that big reducer to come loose and then just replace it with a new piece of pipe inside. Any thoughts? If I can't get it out I might try and keep smashing it back into a circular shape with big vice grips after getting it glowing. 

[pfrederi 18,958]

I would avoid impact wrenches..Cast iron can be somewhat brittle.  

 

I use a reciprocating saw make a lengthwise cut in the bottm of the nipple until you just start to see threads then the pipe wrench will the usually collapse the nipple a bit so it will come out.

[ebinmaine 74,488]

27 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I would avoid impact wrenches..Cast iron can be somewhat brittle.  

 

I use a reciprocating saw make a lengthwise cut in the bottm of the nipple until you just start to see threads then the pipe wrench will the usually collapse the nipple a bit so it will come out.

 

 

Seconded.  Excellent method.  

[Ed Kennell 43,058]

48 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I would avoid impact wrenches..Cast iron can be somewhat brittle.  

 

I use a reciprocating saw make a lengthwise cut in the bottm of the nipple until you just start to see threads then the pipe wrench will the usually collapse the nipple a bit so it will come out.

                                  But I like to make the cut at the top.  Makes it easier to use a punch to collapse the nipple.

[Pullstart 68,130]

This works for me.  I’ve used it a few times.

 

 

[pfrederi 18,958]

15 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

                                  But I like to make the cut at the top.  Makes it easier to use a punch to collapse the nipple.

 Ed I would do that also but it is easier for me to see the bottom of the nipple  so I don't cut to far.......Flexibility and vision not my strongest points 

[ineedanother 1,728]

Agreed, no impact tools. Cut it short and then lengthwise once or twice then collapse with a punch. Did it a couple days ago myself.

[Ed Kennell 43,058]

4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

easier for me to see the bottom of the nipple

Paul, I have better control by holding the saw at a 45 degree and cut thru the nipple at the top till I hit the block or reducer.  Then I lower the saw (raising the blade) cutting the threaded end of the nipple.   I can see the blade in the slot and judge how deep the blade is in the threads.

Try it Paul, it may work for you.    

[ri702bill 10,013]

I find that two cuts in the lower portion, about 30 degrees apart works well. It allows removal of the small 30 degree piece first, then crush the larger piece sideways with a large pair of locking pliers. Twist & remove. Do NOT forget to clean the threads in the block - the correct size pipe tap, by hand, works best. A small wire brush does a so-so job. Either method, be SURE the engine is at TDC so the exhaust valve is "closed" (the ACR keeps it open a tad). Use brakekleen on a rag, not compressed air to clean it up....

[JoeM 8,860]

I've done two ways

the old heat and quench. using map gas and WD to quench.

 

the quench

 

 

Hand held hacksaw (there is usually not to much in the block to cut through)

 

Edited Sunday at 10:01 PM by JoeM

[squonk 44,574]

I just removed a schedule 80 street elbow from a K181.  Wall is twice as thick. It fought the good fight! 

[sqrlgtr 1,007]

Great info in this thread might be sticky worthy. If there isn't already one.

[peter lena 9,447]

 @ineedanother   like an 18 "  pipe wrench  and a 3 lb hammer , most important  part is  striking area  , you want to be close the the adjustment , threading  barrel ,  NOT THE END OF THE WRENCH , thats  a bouncing  waste of  energy !  when you hit a pipe wrench IN  the  CORRECT  heavier area , is DOES NOT BOUNCE !  thats  what you want  , with oiled threading and 3lb of impact LEVERAGE , a solid impact  will  just slightly   move the  rusted nipple . learned that from a  PIPE FIGHTER  ,  I was  assigned too , taught me  a lot of tricks of that trade .  IMPACT LEVERAGE , another thing is that the area , is ideal , for  maintenance , would personally have had  KROIL  on those threads  , days / weeks out  ,  pete   

[BrianX128 113]

Good advice everyone, I was able to get it out by cutting and smacking it around with a punch. Had to laugh, I chased the threads and put in a new actually circular pipe and put the muffler on and realized the hood doesn't shut. I've never once tried to close the hood during this whole ordeal. Just need to find a 45* and another fitting but had to laugh. Glad it was all threaded fittings and I didn't break out some terrible welding skills.