mclaugh417 4 #1 Posted November 1 Hello all! I have recently gone through my 520H. It had an issue with running for about 10 minutes then it would immediately shut down. Like you turned off the key...not a fuel issue. Anyway replaced the stator and the ignition control module and it seemingly fixed the issue. However now it seems to not be charging, and did not ever have this issue before. Not sure what I could have done wrong. The voltage at the regulator was about 11.8 and the battery was reading around 12.3 while on and running it for a while. Do the connections from the stator matter what side they are on on the regulator? My regulator has 3 connections. I know the center connection isnt from the stator. Also the gray wire from the tach is piggy backed on one of the wires from the stator, I did the same but wondering if that is the correct way to do it. I took off the ignition switch, cleaned contacts and put dielectric grease on connections. Also I added a electric pump (works great) and starts fast! I put a fuse inline and connected it to the hot side of the hour meter. Dont think this could be my issue but just wanted to mention it because it was the only other thing I changed electrically. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,100 #2 Posted November 1 (edited) It doesn't matter which lugs the stator wires go on as long as they are on the two outside lugs on the regulator. Check the AC voltage on the two stator wires. It should be 25 to 35 VAC and vary with engine RPM. Make sure the regulator is grounded. Edited November 1 by Ed Kennell 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,162 #3 Posted November 1 20 minutes ago, mclaugh417 said: The voltage at the regulator was about 11.8 and the battery was reading around 12.3 while on and running it for a while. You should take a look at the condition of your 9 pin connector and fuse holders. The charging voltage leaving the voltage regulator goes through the white wire in the 9 pin, then through the 30 amp fuse, then through the red wire in the 9 pin on its way to charge the battery. Any corrosion at any point in this path will drop voltage and generate heat. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,084 #4 Posted November 1 See page 8-5 in the Onan Service Manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #5 Posted November 1 (edited) center post of the regulator to battery negative just reads battery voltage. the other two dont read a thing. Also tach was working yesterday, but today it doesnt seem to read anything Edited November 1 by mclaugh417 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,100 #6 Posted November 1 1 hour ago, mclaugh417 said: the other two dont read a thing. If you are measuring zero AC Volts between the two with the engine running, You probably have a broken wire under the flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,084 #7 Posted November 1 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: If you are measuring zero AC Volts between the two with the engine running, You probably have a broken wire under the flywheel. I think we need to emphasize AC, all too often folks measure using a voltmeter set on DC. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #8 Posted November 2 18 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: If you are measuring zero AC Volts between the two with the engine running, You probably have a broken wire under the flywheel. Yea, or the stator I bought was junk. In effect the same thing would happen. thank you Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #9 Posted November 2 16 hours ago, lynnmor said: I think we need to emphasize AC, all too often folks measure using a voltmeter set on DC. Yes I believe I was measuring on DC. DC is right for the battery side of things though correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,162 #10 Posted November 2 DC is correct for battery and the B+ center terminal of the voltage regulator, the stator produces AC voltage to the two outer terminals of the voltage regulator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #11 Posted November 2 Ok crazy thought just came through my head. I dont believe I did this because I believe I made sure the wires were going in the same orientation. But is it possible to put the stator on backwards? It does look pretty symmetrical (not that I can see it now) but just wondering if its possible I put it on backwards and it blew my regulator as well. I dont know much about the electrical side of things or if flipping it one way or the other matters for the voltage but just a question. An embarrassing one to ask but I couldnt help but ask. The tractor had a host of issues but it was charging before, and seemingly did briefly when I fired it up then batt gauge went in the red very soon after starting it. Now obviously it it isnt charging at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,100 #12 Posted November 2 Please unplug the two stator wires and measure the AC voltage between them with the engine running. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #13 Posted November 2 1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said: Please unplug the two stator wires and measure the AC voltage between them with the engine running. Will do ill be back with results Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #14 Posted November 2 26 minutes ago, mclaugh417 said: Will do ill be back with results 28 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: Please unplug the two stator wires and measure the AC voltage between them with the engine running. So, set the voltmeter to Vac 200 and got nothing between the two stator wires. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,100 #15 Posted November 2 3 hours ago, mclaugh417 said: So, set the voltmeter to Vac 200 and got nothing between the two stator wires. OK, so we know we have a problem under the flywheel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 3,621 #16 Posted November 2 3 hours ago, mclaugh417 said: So, set the voltmeter to Vac 200 and got nothing between the two stator wires. If your meter has a VAC 20V setting and you used the VAC 200V setting you may not have gotten a reading. The 200-volt range is for house wiring, the much lower voltage put out by the tractor's flywheel alternator might not register in the 200 range if there is a lower setting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #17 Posted November 2 17 minutes ago, adsm08 said: If your meter has a VAC 20V setting and you used the VAC 200V setting you may not have gotten a reading. The 200-volt range is for house wiring, the much lower voltage put out by the tractor's flywheel alternator might not register in the 200 range if there is a lower setting. No i wish there was so I could be more confident in it. But it only has 200 or 600 for AC. For some reason it does have 20 for dc voltage though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mclaugh417 4 #18 Posted Sunday at 06:09 PM 1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said: OK, so we know we have a problem under the flywheel. Thanks Ed. Ill dig into it. Obviously was hoping it wouldnt be under the flywheel, as you probably know its not the most fun place to get to lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 43,100 #19 Posted Sunday at 06:43 PM Maybe you'll get lucky and find a broken wire. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 62,162 #20 Posted Monday at 01:19 AM 12 hours ago, mclaugh417 said: but it was charging before, and seemingly did briefly when I fired it up You may have routed a wire where it cold make contact with the moving flywheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,084 #21 Posted Monday at 02:38 AM This photo shows the stator wires held in place with a clamp: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
