1987_WHEEHORSE312 53 #1 Posted October 29 (edited) Is anyone using anything other then the spring tensioners or Bungie Straps at chain tensioners for tire chains? Edited October 29 by 1987_WHEEHORSE312 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,285 #2 Posted October 29 I've never used or needed tensioners. Fully deflate the tires (I remove the valve core). As you install the chains work them around the tread and minimize all the slack you can making sure they are straight. Eliminate as many links as you can. Latching the hook thingy should be difficult. Reinflate and you're good to go. I cut off any extra links and tag them in the spring to make sure they go back on the same tire. Works for steel or rubber chains. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1987_WHEEHORSE312 53 #3 Posted October 29 4 minutes ago, Racinbob said: I've never used or needed tensioners. Fully deflate the tires (I remove the valve core). As you install the chains work them around the tread and minimize all the slack you can making sure they are straight. Eliminate as many links as you can. Latching the hook thingy should be difficult. Reinflate and you're good to go. I cut off any extra links and tag them in the spring to make sure they go back on the same tire. Works for steel or rubber chains. Thats a pretty good idea! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,285 #4 Posted October 29 Once I get them fitted properly it makes reinstalling them the next season easier. I had to go a bit further this year. The 9.50's on my 2005 have their set fitted. But this is the first year for the 10.50's on the B-80. It had 8.50's on it and a set fitted properly. But those tires went on Dino because the bigger tires wouldn't clear a 42" mower deck. So I ordered up some more cross rubbers and added links as needed to convert the 8.50 chains to 10.50. It seems to have worked well. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 23,892 #5 Posted October 29 Agree with letting the air out, installing em as tight as possible and then reinflating the tire. Just used that method on these two link chains last weekend. 6 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 10,232 #6 Posted October 29 i have dedicated fluid filled winter tires; the chains stay on year round. I do use the elastic tensioner with hooks on the inside... 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1987_WHEEHORSE312 53 #7 Posted October 29 57 minutes ago, Racinbob said: Once I get them fitted properly it makes reinstalling them the next season easier. I had to go a bit further this year. The 9.50's on my 2005 have their set fitted. But this is the first year for the 10.50's on the B-80. It had 8.50's on it and a set fitted properly. But those tires went on Dino because the bigger tires wouldn't clear a 42" mower deck. So I ordered up some more cross rubbers and added links as needed to convert the 8.50 chains to 10.50. It seems to have worked well. awesome!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1987_WHEEHORSE312 53 #8 Posted October 29 14 minutes ago, Sparky said: Agree with letting the air out, installing em as tight as possible and then reinflating the tire. Just used that method on these two link chains last weekend. I will have to give that a try! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 9,033 #9 Posted October 30 I have not used chains since I went to these tires 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 8,436 #10 Posted October 30 These chains are a very tight fit without using any straps, like the others have said, let all the air out of the tire, work it around, it took vice grips to get the chain finally fastened. Inflated the tire and these are super tight now. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
