What does it take to start a tractor?

[hodge 6]

Alright. This is what the issue was (if you haven't read my previous posts)- tractor would sometimes start (turn over), sometimes not. It got to the point that it would only turn over if I turned the key on, and jump it at the soleniod posts. I have:

-replaced the soleniod

-replaced the switch with the proper Toro part

-disabled the safety switches- eliminated them as culprit

It still works the same- turn the new switch on, and jump. It will start up and run fine, and will shut off with the key. Just not start.

Any ideas? What is necessary for the keyed ignition to start the tractor? What am I missing?

:ychain:

[kpinnc 16,234]

I have a 1987 310-8, and had a similar problem.

Have you checked the "low oil" switch at the base of the oil pan? It's directly under the starter. Mine went bad, and prevented the engine from starting. Not even a "click" when the key was turned.

It's just a float w/ a micro switch that screws into the pan. I removed mine and have never had trouble since. After all, I check the oil before starting it anyway... :scratchead:

[pbradley68 1]

I know this one. It takes a "Key". Sorry, I couldn't resist with your title of "What does it take to start a tractor". :scratchead:

[hodge 6]

I have a 1987 310-8, and had a similar problem.

Have you checked the "low oil" switch at the base of the oil pan? It's directly under the starter. Mine went bad, and prevented the engine from starting. Not even a "click" when the key was turned.

It's just a float w/ a micro switch that screws into the pan. I removed mine and have never had trouble since. After all, I check the oil before starting it anyway...

That is interesting. I noticed today, when running, that I don't get a light when I hit the test switch. I will check that in the morning!

As always, this forum is populated with some of the best people on earth. The rest of them are at my church.

Hopefully, so of you can "disagree" with that!

[hodge 6]

Pbradley, ha ha ha. I should have seen that coming. :scratchead:

[sodbuster 1]

on my 416 I had a similar problem.check out the brake and trans safety switches.both easily bypassed with jumper for testing. jumping across the solenoid bypasses the safety switches. mine was at the hydro safety switch.replaced it and starts every time. :scratchead:

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

Hodge,

good troubleshooting clue on not getting a test lite.

If the tractor is off - you hit the test light and nothing ? then

1/ no ground at # 1

2/ bad test switch at # 2

3/ no 12 volts coming up from battery connection on ign switch - FYI - the toro guide shows something I labeled # 4 - no id is on the wiring guide - is this a fuse connection ?? CHECK IT for corrosion

4/ bad LED indicator or bad wiring to it.

Since you have a Magneto ignition, as long as you can spin the engine it should run - I believe thats what's happening from your previous post.

So what is the minimum needed to start normally ??

Bear with the simple things here - other people may be learning.

Good clean battery connections - both at battery and chassis ground and starter relay (point #13) also a good connection from starter relay ground point (#12)

When the ignition switch is in the start position - 12 volts is at point #5 and travels to the input of the oil pressure switch #6.

If the oil switch is "on" (oil OK) then the voltage on the tan wire goes thru the oil switch to the dark blue wire ( #7 to # 8) - this voltage at point #8 does two things - pulls in the coil of the starter lockout relay and heads over to the test switch to lite the test lite ( something you are complaining about now HINT HINT )

And of course the starter lockout relay will only activate if there is a good ground at the relay pin # 14.

Now, you said you bypassed the seat and pto lockouts. So...... the 12 volts at the ignition switch start position should also travel up to location #10 on the diagram. The 12 volts will pass up to point #10 at all times since you bypassed the seat and pto switch. CHECK IT while trying to crank the engine. 12 volts should always be at point #10 as long as the ignition switch is held in the start position.

If the last step checks OK the wire at point #8 is hot with 12 volts the starter lockout relay should pull in and allow 12 volts from point #10 to point #11.

12 volts at point # 11 will pull in the starter solenoid and zing - off you go !

ASSuming you have a good starter - no dead spots and a good starter relay allowing 12 volts from point # 13 thru to the engine starter at point # 15

So for what its worth. If you took the 12 volts from the ignition switch start position (#5) and connected it directly to the starter relay (point # 11) , when you hit the start position on the ign switch - away you go. You have now bypassed the oil switch, starter lockout relay and all safety switches.

I AM NOT ADVOCATING RUNNING YOUR TRACTOR WITH ANY BYPASSED SAFETY DEVICES. WAY TOO MANY STORIES OF PEOPLE FLIPPING TRACTORS WHILE THEY ARE RUNNING. THIS ADVICE IS GIVEN STRICTLY AS TROUBLESHOOTING STEPS TO DETERMINE THE ROOT CAUSE OF YOUR PROBLEM UNTIL THE REAL ISSUE CAN BE REPAIRED AND SAFETY DEVICES REACTIVATED.

Again, no preaching here but my work in the medical field has made me very conscious of the potential dangers around me. I'm no longer in my 20's and invincible.

Enough for tonight - now my brain hurts. I have to stop posting after 18 hour days !!

:scratchead:

[hodge 6]

Well, between me being pretty useless at electrical stuff, a tight budget, and tall grass, I installed a push button starter on the 310. It isn't a show queen, so I am more interested in her working than I am originality. Thanks for all of your help!

[WH nut 553]

Ok here is your problem. There is a 20 amp fuse under the battery on the right side. Either the fuse is bad, or the connections are corroded up. Mine did the same thing

[Save Old Iron 1,573]

Hodge,

glad you had a chance to address the tall grass part of your problem.

Just curious, on the wired in switch you assembled - where did you connect the wires to on the tractor ?

based on the input from WH nut - the item # 4 on the wiring diagram must be a 20 amp fuse / holder. It is not called out as such on the diagram but it makes sense.

If you do decide to check it out and it is corroded, make sure the replacement holder you splice in is rated for 30 amps - it will give you a slight edge on better reliability in the future.