Lawn Ranger Identification

[doynger69 41]

Hello fellow Wheel Horse Nuts, Can anyone help me Identify this Lawn ranger? Year / Model Number? Serial Number A-72440,

Going to restore it and want to try to get it accurate. 

 

Thank You in advance

Eric in western Pa.

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,263]

That’s a 1964  model 34R…the only year with that combination of hood and rear fenders.  Model 34R is the Tecumseh 6hp manual pull start model . The electric start model 34E would have had the electric start Tecumseh 6hp engine….pretty much the only difference between the 1964 model lawn rangers…

[squonk 44,296]

Pullstart would run those rear tires! 

[doynger69 41]

2 hours ago, Terry M said:

That’s a 1964  model 34R…the only year with that combination of hood and rear fenders.  Model 34R is the Tecumseh 6hp manual pull start model . The electric start model 34E would have had the electric start Tecumseh 6hp engine….pretty much the only difference between the 1964 model lawn rangers…

Thank You for all the Great information. Does it look mostly original? Anything wrong on it?

Anyone have the missing belt cover I'm missing?

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,625]

Serial number A-72440 in 1964 is nearing the end of the use of 1962 attachment serial numbers.

This series of serial numbers starting in 1962 used a 62-xxxxxx serial number for the tractors and an A-xxxxxx for attachments. They had a few left over.

 

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,263]

20 minutes ago, doynger69 said:

Thank You for all the Great information. Does it look mostly original? Anything wrong on it?

Anyone have the missing belt cover I'm missing?

 

Looks mostly original..looks to be missing the drive belt guard ….and obviously the engine.   Looks fairly straight and very restorable..😎

[doynger69 41]

Thanks for all your help.

[Handy Don 14,414]

Just to chip in...if it had been an electric start model, it would have a key switch instead of the toggle in the hoodstand and a battery box on the frame just behind the engine. 

The LRs were an interesting compromise with the smaller wheels, lower stance, and the Tecumseh engine but still strong having most of the other elements of their larger siblings. 

The H60 engine was an “economy” model from Tecumseh--a significant cost save over the Kohlers of the day but without the durability. 

[kpinnc 15,165]

6 hours ago, doynger69 said:

Going to restore it and want to try to get it accurate. 

 

If you don't find a recoil H60, a Kohler K181 fits nicely without nearly as many carb issues...

 

That body style Ranger is a sharp little tractor. Much more "tractor" than it's size would lead you to believe.

 

 

[Pullstart 67,562]

14 hours ago, squonk said:

Pullstart would run those rear tires! 

Only flat on the bottom!  

 

 

[702854boy 126]

43 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Only flat on the bottom!  

 

 

That poor general 

[wh315-8 482]

The belt guard is the same from many other round hood models to broaden your search. Even the later ones without a decal indent will work. A Kohler vs Tecumseh guard was the difference at the engine tab but even that can be overcome to adapt. Redoyourhorse com is your choice for decals. 
I still need to rebuild mine but they are a unique year.

[clueless 3,315]

14 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

If you don't find a recoil H60, a Kohler K181 fits nicely without nearly as many carb issues...

 

That body style Ranger is a sharp little tractor. Much more "tractor" than it's size would lead you to believe.

 

 

I would love to see and here more about the K181 swap, I have one I would like to put on my '67 lawn ranger.

[kpinnc 15,165]

8 hours ago, clueless said:

would love to see and here more about the K181 swap, I have one I would like to put on my '67 lawn ranger.

 

So far as mechanical, the engine is direct bolt in. No mods required. 

 

Electrical will depend on whether your K181 has electric start or not. 

 

If electric start is needed, you'll have to swap the keyswitch and wire up for 12V ignition as with any other Kohler K series. 

 

You would also have to use a smaller "sports" battery and make a smaller battery box to clear the starter. This is the only fabrication that may be required. Mine is in the pic below. About $40 on the jungle site. It's been used for over a year now and works great.

 

I cut my hood so it's easier to remove, especially with the larger Kohler under it. Not absolutely required but much better. 

 

No mention of the battery box fab but it is shown in a couple places in the build thread. 

 

Keep in mind the build I did made up the center console similar to what you have already, so much of the thread is devoted there. You won't have to do any of that. 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/106594-another-project/?page=1

Edited 19 hours ago by kpinnc

[kpinnc 15,165]

8 hours ago, clueless said:

 

 

Double post somehow...

Edited 19 hours ago by kpinnc

[702854boy 126]

2 hours ago, kpinnc said:

You would also have to use a smaller "sports" battery and make a smaller battery box to clear the starter.

On our 33e we k181 swapped it but ours was a s/g setup but we didn't have to modify the battery box, use a smaller battery or modify the hood but I don't know, it might be different on the 64 models.

[kpinnc 15,165]

38 minutes ago, 702854boy said:

On our 33e we k181 swapped it but ours was a s/g setup but we didn't have to modify the battery box, use a smaller battery or modify the hood but I don't know, it might be different on the 64 models.

 

Very good point. If your engine has the Delco Remy starter/generator you don't have to change anything. 

 

My K181 was "newer" with the lower mounted bendix starter so it gets in the way of the battery on a short frame. 

[clueless 3,315]

14 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

So far as mechanical, the engine is direct bolt in. No mods required. 

 

Electrical will depend on whether your K181 has electric start or not. 

 

If electric start is needed, you'll have to swap the keyswitch and wire up for 12V ignition as with any other Kohler K series. 

 

You would also have to use a smaller "sports" battery and make a smaller battery box to clear the starter. This is the only fabrication that may be required. Mine is in the pic below. About $40 on the jungle site. It's been used for over a year now and works great.

 

I cut my hood so it's easier to remove, especially with the larger Kohler under it. Not absolutely required but much better. 

 

No mention of the battery box fab but it is shown in a couple places in the build thread. 

 

Keep in mind the build I did made up the center console similar to what you have already, so much of the thread is devoted there. You won't have to do any of that. 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/106594-another-project/?page=1

How did you connect the gas tank to the K181?