Retired Wrencher 5,959 #1 Posted Saturday at 05:39 PM I am looking for a key switch for the old style starter generator 1056. Just wondering how many amps do you need for the switch? Is it 20-50 or more? Thanks in advance or any help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,812 #2 Posted Saturday at 05:50 PM If you are going to run direct battery to switch to S/G you want at least 50 amp switch... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,165 #3 Posted Saturday at 06:41 PM @Retired Wrencher see your 1056 post Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,611 #4 Posted Saturday at 08:45 PM The 4988 switch was replaced by 7263 which is still available from Toro if you win a lottery. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial-7263/ If the switch still operates at all adding a solenoid should give it a longer life. Then using regular battery cables to the solenoid would reduce the loses in the wiring that you have now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,959 #5 Posted Saturday at 09:30 PM 43 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: The 4988 switch was replaced by 7263 which is still available from Toro if you win a lottery. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial-7263/ If the switch still operates at all adding a solenoid should give it a longer life. Then using regular battery cables to the solenoid would reduce the loses in the wiring that you have now. Wow Garry I see what you mean. Wow, again. Thanks for the info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,959 #6 Posted Saturday at 09:32 PM 46 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: The 4988 switch was replaced by 7263 which is still available from Toro if you win a lottery. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial-7263/ If the switch still operates at all adding a solenoid should give it a longer life. Then using regular battery cables to the solenoid would reduce the loses in the wiring that you have now. Would you happen to know how many amps that is Garry? I was told at least 20 if not more when I’m not sure can’t seem to find any information on that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,959 #7 Posted Saturday at 09:34 PM (edited) 2 hours ago, squonk said: @Retired Wrencher see your 1056 post Mike do you have a simple the wiring diagram. With clear connections. Electrical is not strong suit. Edited Saturday at 09:34 PM by Retired Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,081 #8 Posted Saturday at 10:53 PM Here you go. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lagersolut 743 #9 Posted Saturday at 11:17 PM 2 hours ago, gwest_ca said: The 4988 switch was replaced by 7263 which is still available from Toro if you win a lottery. https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-commercial-7263/ If the switch still operates at all adding a solenoid should give it a longer life. Then using regular battery cables to the solenoid would reduce the loses in the wiring that you have now. Wheel Horse parts and more ( one of the venders here ) has it a little cheaper 62 bucks - not letting me insert the link for some reason . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,611 #10 Posted Saturday at 11:51 PM 2 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said: Would you happen to know how many amps that is Garry? I was told at least 20 if not more when I’m not sure can’t seem to find any information on that. No I do not know. Have never had a starter/generator on anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 12,066 #11 Posted Sunday at 08:30 AM A Cole Hersee 95521 can be had for less. I believe it's rated at 50 amps. But it's better to install a solenoid so it carries the high amperage starting current. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,165 #12 Posted Sunday at 09:12 AM (edited) Inrush amps to start a k181 is about 80 amps and settles in around 50.This is a smaller engine with compression release. Edited Sunday at 09:13 AM by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,959 #13 Posted Sunday at 10:05 AM 52 minutes ago, squonk said: Inrush amps to start a k181 is about 80 amps and settles in around 50.This is a smaller engine with compression release. Mike is there a diagram of that wiring to convert to a solenoid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 61,081 #14 Posted Sunday at 10:47 AM (edited) Here you go. Use a 103990 ignition switch. Edited Sunday at 10:55 AM by 953 nut 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,165 #15 Posted Sunday at 10:54 AM (edited) Richard's is without solenoid.. Here is with it. Edited Sunday at 10:54 AM by squonk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,306 #16 Posted Sunday at 01:08 PM 3 hours ago, Retired Wrencher said: Mike is there a diagram of that wiring to convert to a solenoid. K181-specific diagram from “files” section 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,315 #17 Posted Sunday at 01:41 PM (edited) I know a guy that has them for 45 clams. PM me you want his info Wrencher. I always have them on hand since most of my tractors are 60s & SG. Supposedly they are 70 amp switches. You guys and your solenoids ... what's everyone got against ORIGINAL these days! Edited Sunday at 01:43 PM by WHX?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,306 #18 Posted Sunday at 03:33 PM 1 hour ago, WHX?? said: what's everyone got against ORIGINAL these days! For me, it was choosing not to wrangle that heavy 6 ga. wiring up to a relatively flimsy connector on the back of the ignition switch. I did keep the “sentimental” bowl filter! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 44,165 #19 Posted Sunday at 04:59 PM 3 hours ago, WHX?? said: You guys and your solenoids ... what's everyone got against ORIGINAL these days! My 875 came with a PO installed solenoid. EXCEPT where it was mounted was a hoot. A friend owned it before me and the solenoid was already there. The lift arm/rockshaft was missing on the tractor so I gave him one. He puts it on and raises the lever and ZAP!!!The rock shaft connected both large terminals together. A lever starter just like an old farm tractor! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,315 #20 Posted Sunday at 05:15 PM 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: For me, it was choosing not to wrangle that heavy 6 ga. wiring up to a relatively flimsy connector That can be a issue. Especially with original brittle wires. Ther has been some French here over that. If I need to replace I fab new ones with trolling motor cable. Flexible and much much easier to deal with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,315 #21 Posted Sunday at 05:21 PM This was a po thing on a tractor i restoed. There was a mounting tab on the regulator most don't have tho. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,306 #22 Posted Sunday at 05:43 PM 19 minutes ago, WHX?? said: There was a mounting tab on the regulator most don't have tho. Yep. @ri702bill and I both fabbed brackets since we wanted the solenoid to mount at the S/G to keep the heavy wire runs short. Bill’s work inspired mine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,697 #23 Posted Sunday at 05:58 PM (edited) I replaced both hexnuts on the endcap with threaded hex spacers to become a pair of tapped standoffs to mount the plate. Edited Sunday at 05:59 PM by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,697 #24 Posted Sunday at 06:00 PM Well, you can't get the wiring much shorter than that!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 52,315 #25 Posted Sunday at 07:29 PM 1 hour ago, ri702bill said: wiring much shorter than that!! One of the reasons I left it like that during resto. One of the better PO mods I've seen. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites