210-5 peerless 930, jerking in high gear or when going down slope

[OldNoob 26]

210-5 peerless 930, jerking in high gear or when going down slope.
Ok so when im in 4th or higher or going down a slope in all forward gears, the mower jerks like the belt is slipping. However belt tension and tensioner pulley seem fine. (level ground in 1-3 seem fine)
Is there a spring tension adjustment?
Thoughts?

Edited September 3 by OldNoob

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,604]

Good chance it is the belt is slipping. The higher the gear the more it can slip because the belt works progressively harder in the higher gears. Very common when more cars had manual transmissions.

The belt may be glazed. A light sanding of the sides with fine sandpaper and a clean with alcohol may correct it if the belt V is not worn too narrow.

[JoeM 8,567]

I'd say the belt is the issue but some other things would be wheel hub keys, drive pulley slipping??

[OldNoob 26]

6 minutes ago, JoeM said:

I'd say the belt is the issue but some other things would be wheel hub keys, drive pulley slipping??

Funny that you should mention the hub Key..
i actually had the right key fall out when i was changing the wheel and did not notice it until i decided to also clean and adjust the brakes. 
Also are D&D belts OK?    and Lowes hardware offers a Sunbelt in stock.. is that an acceptable belt?

Edited September 3 by OldNoob

[Gasaholic 316]

Those "flat pan" peerless transmissions frequently had problems with the shifter keys - they can weaken over time AND/OR the tips of the keys that engage the gears will round over, so the keys slip out of detent and back in to next detent which makes it feel like the transmission "jerks"  - In best case, split the tranny and replace keys fixes it, worst case, also need to replace gears because the notches in the gears that keys engage can also round off (from repeated "slipping" as above)   Either case would mean popping the transmission out and split it to re-do the gears (and re-grease , what a god-awful mess they were!) and if doing that , recommend also replacing bushings (careful they have notched teeth on the flanges that must fit in the transmission case notches, which can make reassembly a huge hassle or worse, bound transmission after bolting it back together) and seals (just square cut o-rings that fit in spaces given for them)  They were notorious pain in the @$$ to deal with when they failed , and I was often the one rebuilding them (mainly because I took more care with putting stuff together than the other guys in the shop did.. I took pride in my work, they were just looking for a paycheck)  I'd have at least one of those every couple of weeks in the summer at the shop I worked at and it was SUCH a pain to clean off the grease (that bentonite grease was so sticky! it stuck to everything!)  

 

So, if you can't eliminate the issue with other means, you may want to listen/feel closely to how the transmission feels (You can feel those keys when they slip in and out of detent when hand is on the shift lever, most times)  On some units that had detents for the shift lever itself, you also have to make sure to line up the detents by loosening the transmission mounting bolts and shift it around to make sure things lined up right (I think those were Dynamarks or some such box store brand) otherwise when shift lever popped into its detent it can cause the shift keys to be off-center of where they should be. 

 

Hopefully your issue ISNT the shift keys, but if it is, I feel for ya if you have to R&R the transmission and pop it apart.. such a pain! (not to mention I think those keys, if they are even available any more, are awfully expensive - gears can reach $100 a pop these days, I believe) 

 

[oliver2-44 10,837]

Use the blue belt at Tractor Supply!

[953 nut 61,052]

5 hours ago, OldNoob said:

going down a slope in all forward gears, the mower jerks like the belt is slipping. However belt tension and tensioner pulley seem fine

The belt tensioning principle is designed to transfer power from the engine to the transmission, not the other way around. When going down a hill the slack in the belt is working against the spring tensioned idler pulley.         Kind of like pushing a rope, you can pull it for miles but can't push it an inch.