Andy G 8 #1 Posted August 30 Hey everyone. Need to replace the drive belt on my black hood C120. I get I need to take the side protector off, but I'll be darned if I can figure out how to make that happen! Do I need to remove the seat and the rear fender pan? What about up forward on the tractor near the clutch pulley...does that need to come off? I'm struggling to make sense of the owners manual and exactly what needs to come off, so any assistance is greatly appreciated! Thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,604 #2 Posted August 30 This is from a 1978-79 service manual section #5 and suspect it will apply to yours also. A link to the manual - a good one to have for many models. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,692 #3 Posted August 30 (edited) Andy - that writeup says it all. There are a couple of belt guard fasteners that are in "interresting" locations! Remove the footrest first! Also a great opportunity to check the condition of the idler pulley, tightness of the Unidrive pulley, overall belt alignment, and lubricate the lower clutch shaft pivot in the frame..... Edited August 30 by ri702bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,348 #4 Posted August 30 @Andy G @ri702bill ,andy , agree with bill on the inspection and function of that entire belt set up , think its one of the most neglected parts of the unit , rarely see anything that is not , rusted / binding up . when I corrected / improved my , pto lever start set up , eliminated every , sloppy , binding point , have to get FED UP WITH ISSUE , to change it out , actually pretty simple , my 3 units have the same improvements . regularly refer to chronic issues AS A GOLD MINE , FOR IMPROVEMENT ! just an idea . pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #5 Posted August 30 5 hours ago, gwest_ca said: This is from a 1978-79 service manual section #5 and suspect it will apply to yours also. A link to the manual - a good one to have for many models. Thank you! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #6 Posted August 30 3 hours ago, ri702bill said: Andy - that writeup says it all. There are a couple of belt guard fasteners that are in "interresting" locations! Remove the footrest first! Also a great opportunity to check the condition of the idler pulley, tightness of the Unidrive pulley, overall belt alignment, and lubricate the lower clutch shaft pivot in the frame..... That's kind of where the hangup is...wish they were clear on where the bolt locations actually are! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #7 Posted August 30 Actually just found these instructions...a little more clear! Wish they did diagrams, etc a little better back then though haha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 9,692 #8 Posted August 30 (edited) Step 6 is the hard way method. There should be NO need to remove the Seat Pan. There are 2 clamps under the foot rest and 2 large Phillips head screws that attach it to the belt guard. undo all 4 and lift the front of the foot rest - wiggle it out under the Seat Pan..... Edited August 30 by ri702bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #9 Posted August 30 Guessing this isn’t supposed to do this… Shouldn’t the tensioner actually HOLD tension? I can spin it from all the way to the rear to all the way forward with only slight resistance and little/no movement on the clutch pedal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 18,455 #10 Posted August 30 The spring and pedal linkage connections to that idler assembly are on the other side of the trans. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #11 Posted August 30 1 hour ago, wallfish said: The spring and pedal linkage connections to that idler assembly are on the other side of the trans. Should the idler be able to spin all the way back and forth like that? Can I just tighten it up on the other side? sorry not at home with it right now. Need to set my mind at ease 😂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 8,134 #12 Posted August 30 I would suspect that the spring jumped off the axle case 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,604 #13 Posted August 31 The roll pin #16 in item #17 may have sheared allowing #15 to rotate in #17 https://www.partstree.com/models/71-12k801-c-120-toro-lawn-tractor-1977/brake-clutch-speed-control-linkage-0/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy G 8 #14 Posted August 31 11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: The roll pin #16 in item #17 may have sheared allowing #15 to rotate in #17 https://www.partstree.com/models/71-12k801-c-120-toro-lawn-tractor-1977/brake-clutch-speed-control-linkage-0/ You sir, are correct! Discovered that right after getting home. Now I'm learning the nuances of the clutch control setting. Should part #15 in have side to side play? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,604 #15 Posted August 31 Does not hurt to add shims or washers to tighten things up. Bound to be wear after all these years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 14,290 #16 Posted August 31 16 hours ago, Andy G said: You sir, are correct! Discovered that right after getting home. Now I'm learning the nuances of the clutch control setting. Should part #15 in have side to side play? Give an eye to the shaft of #15 where it passes through the sides of the tunnel. The natural vibration of the clutch tensioner plus the spring can put some wear here. On one machine where the wear was getting deep, I drilled out the tunnel side to put in a flanged bushing to spread the load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
